Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Foo Off-Topic chit chat with no general subject.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-07-06, 01:35 PM   #1
Pheard
Banned
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: South City, Ca
Bikes:
Posts: 3,348
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Help on car. 2001 Ford Taurus

Siu blue wind tried to help me-

The car basically sputters and shutters coming from a stop. Its like the power switch is going on and off every couple of seconds. I was hoping I could fix it myself, instead of taking it to the auto body.

I checked the spark plug covers to see if they were corroded.

We checked the air filter and its really dirty, and may need to be replaced. I drove it around in a circle with no filter and it still sputtered. Not sure if this is it, but we are going to replace the filter anyways.

The fuel filter was supposedly checked a month ago when we took the car in for overheating.

Any ideas? SBW thinks the fuel injectors are clogged... Any suggestions?






filter is dirty


Spark plug covers
Pheard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 01:37 PM   #2
Stacey
Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP)
 
Stacey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Bikes:
Posts: 9,161
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Possibly O2 sensors. But don't waste your money... sell it and buy a mopar.

Friends don't let friends drive Fords.
__________________
Stacey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 02:01 PM   #3
roughrider504
Senior Member
 
roughrider504's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Orleans
Bikes:
Posts: 1,214
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stacey
But don't waste your money... sell it and buy a mopar.

Friends don't let friends drive Fords.
I agree, but get a import
roughrider504 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 02:17 PM   #4
Pheard
Banned
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: South City, Ca
Bikes:
Posts: 3,348
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thx for the help people geeze!

Changed the filter, costed 15.99.

It's less sputtery now, but still has something wrong.
Pheard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 02:23 PM   #5
BillyBob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Change the spark plugs, change the fuel filter, and change the PCV valve.

If it still sputters, wait until your emissions light comes on and have the codes read to see if you have a bad sensor.
BillyBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 02:28 PM   #6
Pheard
Banned
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: South City, Ca
Bikes:
Posts: 3,348
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
ok the fuel filter is fine and the spark plugs seems to be fine, so maybe the pcv valve? how do I figure that out.
Pheard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 02:35 PM   #7
Karldar
SNIKT!
 
Karldar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Home for wayward mutants
Bikes: '06 Kona Dawg Deluxe/'06 Cannondale F400(frame)/'98 Cannondale SuperV1000
Posts: 1,560
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Manual or automatic? You could try some FI cleaner, and O2 sensors shouldn't be too expensive. Might just be it's time to go....
__________________
I like pie!
"The bright flicker of our television screens is the stolen incandescence of a thousand young minds." - Theodore W. Gray
"you taught us to fish while so many others were handing out tuna sandwiches" - Ziggurat
Karldar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 02:47 PM   #8
Mothra
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 373
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Could be fuel-pump, I've seen this quite often with those cars. There's a test of hooking the fuel-rail to a hose dumping into a container. Then jumpering the fuel-pump relay and measuring volume-flow in 30-seconds. Should be a certain number, I think 1-gallon+.

Also the TPS could be bad, this is used to reference one of the axes on the computer's 3D mapping. Bad TPS would have the computer look up the wrong spot on the map and give you improper fuel & ignition values

Related to TPS is the MAF-sensor. THe computer typically combines both TPS & MAF-sensor input to determine the load-axis look-up point. If either one is out of spec, the computer will think your throttle-opening or air-flow is something other than actual.
Mothra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 03:15 PM   #9
free_pizza
later
 
free_pizza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 2,471
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
you need a new johnson rod.
free_pizza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 03:45 PM   #10
Michigander
Senior Member
 
Michigander's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Bikes: Giant ATX 1200, Schwinn Peleton
Posts: 1,724
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 119 Post(s)
My friend had problems much like you are describing with his escort, and it was the PCV valve. The PCV valve will be this little rubber hose thingy right on top of your engine. The valve itself will easily pull out because its not threaded. Once you have it out, check the valve and hose for visible damage. Also shake the valve to check to see if it rattles. It should make a rattling noise. If it doesn't, its clogged, so replace it. Also, if the hose is busted up, make sure you replace it with real PCV hose. If its just busted on the end, you may be able to use the slack and shorten it. If not and you need a new hose, auto parts stores may try to tell you that pressure type hose will work, but it will collapse and fail because PCV systems are a vaccume system. If auto parts stores don't have it, you might end up needing to go to a dealer.

Two pieces of advice. First of all, buy a Chilton manual. They cost 15 bucks, and they are highly worth having. Second, get a diagnostic computer. Mine was 200 bucks. Considering that auto repair shops charge 100 dollars to run the scan (an activity a third grader can become an expert at in 4 minutes), its highly worth having your own because they pay for themselves after a use or two. Many places also rent computers. A computer will tell you for certain what is wrong, and the Chilton manual will tell you how to fix it.
__________________
Bring back the Sig Test!


(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

Last edited by Michigander; 07-07-06 at 04:30 PM.
Michigander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 04:58 PM   #11
randya
Senior Member
 
randya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: in bed with your mom
Bikes: who cares?
Posts: 13,689
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Call Click and Clack. When you get on the air, say hi to all your BF friends.

http://www.cartalk.com/
randya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 05:43 PM   #12
BillyBob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheard
Siu blue wind tried to help me-


I checked the spark plug covers to see if they were corroded.
Have you looked at the other end of the spark plug? You should go through a few sets of plugs before you will need to replace the wires.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheard
The fuel filter was supposedly checked a month ago when we took the car in for overheating.
Usually, you just replace it rather than check it. In fact, it would be very dangerous to 'check' it. I would replace it.


Good luck.
BillyBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 05:45 PM   #13
BillyBob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigander
Two pieces of advice. First of all, buy a Chilton manual. They cost 15 bucks, and they are highly worth having. Second, get a diagnostic computer. Mine was 200 bucks. Considering that auto repair shops charge 100 dollars to run the scan (an activity a third grader can become an expert at in 4 minutes), its highly worth having your own because they pay for themselves after a use or two. Many places also rent computers. A computer will tell you for certain what is wrong, and the Chilton manual will tell you how to fix it.
Good advice. AutoZone will pull the codes for you for free.

To the OP, the car is 5 years old. A tune up can't hurt it, and should be done anyhow.
BillyBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 06:36 PM   #14
lyeinyoureye
Senior Citizen
 
lyeinyoureye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: no
Bikes: yes
Posts: 1,347
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
First things first, replace plugs, wires, fuel and air filters (I'd say distributor/rotor too but it looks lke you've got one of those new fangled solenoid ignition thingys). If that doesn't fix it and it's a v6, you can probably rule out O2 sensor problems, since you should have one in each manifold and one in the main pipe, so unless all three went out you won't get craptacular running like a i4 gets when it's one and only sensor goes out. If it's just sputtering off idle then it's probably not the fuel pump either since that should manifest itself at all engine loads.
Something else to try is disconnecting the TPS sensor to see if the ecu throws a code and switches to open loop mode. If you disconnect it and it starts running well, then it's almost certainly a problem with one of the sensors providing active feedback to the ecu. If it's still running poorly after you disconnect the sensor, then it's probably not related to your sensors and may be your pcv or some other part of that gasser's wierd vaccuum/emissions system.
lyeinyoureye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 06:55 PM   #15
edp773
Senior Member
 
edp773's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Illinios
Bikes: 2004 Giant Cypress, 2006 Trek 7.3 FX, 2007 Gary Fisher Wahoo
Posts: 1,143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The fuel pump is your most likely item to check. There is a little valve on the fuel rail where you can check pressure. The cap and valve look similar to a presta valve but is actually a shraeder valve. As mothra mentioned volume of the pump was a common problem on earlier models.

I doubt it is the PCV valve, but if you want to check it, it is behind the upper intake manifold. A bad PCV valve generally causes sludge build up in the throttle body. When you go to check the valve it is best to have a cold engine.

It would be a good idea to have youe codes checked, but make sure all the basics are working properly before you start chasing codes.
edp773 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-06, 08:51 PM   #16
tulip
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Out there, on my bike
Bikes:
Posts: 5,421
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
so sad...only 5 years old...best of luck.

Chiltons is the way to go if you are a DIYer. I've managed to do some mechanical fixes on my '92 Honda with the help of Chiltons. Of course, being a Honda, there hasn't been much wrong with it.
tulip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-06, 08:33 AM   #17
cavit8
Shiftless bum
 
cavit8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Bikes: Ciocc fixed, Raleigh record winter bike, Bianchi Grizzly SS, Pinarello Surprise, Raleigh Twenty, Bridgestone Picnica, various sundry bits and pieces...
Posts: 2,671
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Does it always do this? Warm/cold? Does it shutter and sputter at higher speeds? When you start, when you slow down?

I find it more helpful to figure out what's wrong rather than change a whack of things to find the problem persists. Get a Chilton from the local library if possible and look through it for problems like yours. Go to a forum where they may actually know what they're talking about http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?act=portal

That said, do replace the PCV valve - after 5 years it's well due for a change. Check the vacuum hose. In your second pic, it's the hose running from the air filter/intake to the manifold adjacent to the oil filler cap. Run the car with the hood up, listen for a hissing noise, squeeze the line along it's path. You'll sometimes find a hole at the elbow where it goes into the manifold. This will give you a noticeable shudder/stall at low speeds but not at speed.
cavit8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:10 PM.