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  1. #1
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    Help on car. 2001 Ford Taurus

    Siu blue wind tried to help me-

    The car basically sputters and shutters coming from a stop. Its like the power switch is going on and off every couple of seconds. I was hoping I could fix it myself, instead of taking it to the auto body.

    I checked the spark plug covers to see if they were corroded.

    We checked the air filter and its really dirty, and may need to be replaced. I drove it around in a circle with no filter and it still sputtered. Not sure if this is it, but we are going to replace the filter anyways.

    The fuel filter was supposedly checked a month ago when we took the car in for overheating.

    Any ideas? SBW thinks the fuel injectors are clogged... Any suggestions?






    filter is dirty


    Spark plug covers

  2. #2
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
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    Possibly O2 sensors. But don't waste your money... sell it and buy a mopar.

    Friends don't let friends drive Fords.

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    NJS my life! roughrider504's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stacey
    But don't waste your money... sell it and buy a mopar.

    Friends don't let friends drive Fords.
    I agree, but get a import

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    Thx for the help people geeze!

    Changed the filter, costed 15.99.

    It's less sputtery now, but still has something wrong.

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    Change the spark plugs, change the fuel filter, and change the PCV valve.

    If it still sputters, wait until your emissions light comes on and have the codes read to see if you have a bad sensor.

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    ok the fuel filter is fine and the spark plugs seems to be fine, so maybe the pcv valve? how do I figure that out.

  7. #7
    SNIKT! Karldar's Avatar
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    Manual or automatic? You could try some FI cleaner, and O2 sensors shouldn't be too expensive. Might just be it's time to go....
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    Could be fuel-pump, I've seen this quite often with those cars. There's a test of hooking the fuel-rail to a hose dumping into a container. Then jumpering the fuel-pump relay and measuring volume-flow in 30-seconds. Should be a certain number, I think 1-gallon+.

    Also the TPS could be bad, this is used to reference one of the axes on the computer's 3D mapping. Bad TPS would have the computer look up the wrong spot on the map and give you improper fuel & ignition values

    Related to TPS is the MAF-sensor. THe computer typically combines both TPS & MAF-sensor input to determine the load-axis look-up point. If either one is out of spec, the computer will think your throttle-opening or air-flow is something other than actual.

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    you need a new johnson rod.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Michigander's Avatar
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    My friend had problems much like you are describing with his escort, and it was the PCV valve. The PCV valve will be this little rubber hose thingy right on top of your engine. The valve itself will easily pull out because its not threaded. Once you have it out, check the valve and hose for visible damage. Also shake the valve to check to see if it rattles. It should make a rattling noise. If it doesn't, its clogged, so replace it. Also, if the hose is busted up, make sure you replace it with real PCV hose. If its just busted on the end, you may be able to use the slack and shorten it. If not and you need a new hose, auto parts stores may try to tell you that pressure type hose will work, but it will collapse and fail because PCV systems are a vaccume system. If auto parts stores don't have it, you might end up needing to go to a dealer.

    Two pieces of advice. First of all, buy a Chilton manual. They cost 15 bucks, and they are highly worth having. Second, get a diagnostic computer. Mine was 200 bucks. Considering that auto repair shops charge 100 dollars to run the scan (an activity a third grader can become an expert at in 4 minutes), its highly worth having your own because they pay for themselves after a use or two. Many places also rent computers. A computer will tell you for certain what is wrong, and the Chilton manual will tell you how to fix it.
    Last edited by Michigander; 07-07-06 at 05:30 PM.
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    Senior Member randya's Avatar
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    Call Click and Clack. When you get on the air, say hi to all your BF friends.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pheard
    Siu blue wind tried to help me-


    I checked the spark plug covers to see if they were corroded.
    Have you looked at the other end of the spark plug? You should go through a few sets of plugs before you will need to replace the wires.


    Quote Originally Posted by Pheard
    The fuel filter was supposedly checked a month ago when we took the car in for overheating.
    Usually, you just replace it rather than check it. In fact, it would be very dangerous to 'check' it. I would replace it.


    Good luck.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michigander
    Two pieces of advice. First of all, buy a Chilton manual. They cost 15 bucks, and they are highly worth having. Second, get a diagnostic computer. Mine was 200 bucks. Considering that auto repair shops charge 100 dollars to run the scan (an activity a third grader can become an expert at in 4 minutes), its highly worth having your own because they pay for themselves after a use or two. Many places also rent computers. A computer will tell you for certain what is wrong, and the Chilton manual will tell you how to fix it.
    Good advice. AutoZone will pull the codes for you for free.

    To the OP, the car is 5 years old. A tune up can't hurt it, and should be done anyhow.

  14. #14
    Senior Citizen lyeinyoureye's Avatar
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    First things first, replace plugs, wires, fuel and air filters (I'd say distributor/rotor too but it looks lke you've got one of those new fangled solenoid ignition thingys). If that doesn't fix it and it's a v6, you can probably rule out O2 sensor problems, since you should have one in each manifold and one in the main pipe, so unless all three went out you won't get craptacular running like a i4 gets when it's one and only sensor goes out. If it's just sputtering off idle then it's probably not the fuel pump either since that should manifest itself at all engine loads.
    Something else to try is disconnecting the TPS sensor to see if the ecu throws a code and switches to open loop mode. If you disconnect it and it starts running well, then it's almost certainly a problem with one of the sensors providing active feedback to the ecu. If it's still running poorly after you disconnect the sensor, then it's probably not related to your sensors and may be your pcv or some other part of that gasser's wierd vaccuum/emissions system.

  15. #15
    Senior Member edp773's Avatar
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    The fuel pump is your most likely item to check. There is a little valve on the fuel rail where you can check pressure. The cap and valve look similar to a presta valve but is actually a shraeder valve. As mothra mentioned volume of the pump was a common problem on earlier models.

    I doubt it is the PCV valve, but if you want to check it, it is behind the upper intake manifold. A bad PCV valve generally causes sludge build up in the throttle body. When you go to check the valve it is best to have a cold engine.

    It would be a good idea to have youe codes checked, but make sure all the basics are working properly before you start chasing codes.
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  16. #16
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    so sad...only 5 years old...best of luck.

    Chiltons is the way to go if you are a DIYer. I've managed to do some mechanical fixes on my '92 Honda with the help of Chiltons. Of course, being a Honda, there hasn't been much wrong with it.

  17. #17
    Shiftless bum cavit8's Avatar
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    Does it always do this? Warm/cold? Does it shutter and sputter at higher speeds? When you start, when you slow down?

    I find it more helpful to figure out what's wrong rather than change a whack of things to find the problem persists. Get a Chilton from the local library if possible and look through it for problems like yours. Go to a forum where they may actually know what they're talking about http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?act=portal

    That said, do replace the PCV valve - after 5 years it's well due for a change. Check the vacuum hose. In your second pic, it's the hose running from the air filter/intake to the manifold adjacent to the oil filler cap. Run the car with the hood up, listen for a hissing noise, squeeze the line along it's path. You'll sometimes find a hole at the elbow where it goes into the manifold. This will give you a noticeable shudder/stall at low speeds but not at speed.

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