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Old 01-14-07, 12:38 AM   #1
VegaVixen
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Wheel question to Foo

Anyone know if Spinenergy XAero wheels will work with my Schwinn LeTour ('84) free-hub?
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Old 01-14-07, 02:21 AM   #2
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Yeah, you mean the spinergy don't come with it's own freehub?

AFAIK, an '84 bike doesn't use freehubs, they use freewheels.
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Old 01-14-07, 02:28 AM   #3
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We would need more information on your bike to give any answers....what's on it currently? How many cogs in the back, shimano/suntour/pther spacing? Lots of variables here.

I'm off to bed though....I'll answer when I awake!
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Old 01-14-07, 07:50 AM   #4
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If you need a freewheel compatible wheel, get a shimano 7sp cassette (they fit shimano 9sp freehub
bodies)

Bgurl is dead on about freehubs and cassettes from a visual standpoint. the difference is where the ratcheting mechanism is.....freehubs is in the hub, freewheel is in the gear cluster. Difference between a freewheel and a fixed gear hub, is a fixed gear hud has two threads on the same side, one standard thread, one opposing. the opposing thread is for a lockring, while the larger standard threaded portion is for the cog. a normal freewheel threaded section does not need a lockring, since the freewheel action of the cluster will prevent any of the reverse torque needed to remove the freewheel from the hub.
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Old 01-14-07, 07:52 AM   #5
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Definitly maybe, but it might or might not.

Ask the Magic 8 Ball again.
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Old 01-14-07, 07:59 AM   #6
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eeeeewwww....I just read somewhere that this bike comes stock with Suntour deraileurs....if it's indexed, you need to swap out the RD, shifters, and install a cassette to use spinergys on it.

Reason is Suntour used TWO spacings on the same cassette, and the shifters were set up specifcally to work with this....part of it was shimano spacing, but the last few cogs were totally different. Shimano cassettes can work, but they don't shift very well once you hit that part. Since you probably ride hills, that can get VERY annoying.


I loved the suntour group my old trek 1100 had, but it's just a shame thet they were such oddballs with their standards.
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Old 01-14-07, 11:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegaVixen
Anyone know if Spinenergy XAero wheels will work with my Schwinn LeTour ('84) free-hub?
If you are asking can the Spinergy XAero rim be used with your current hubs, not unless you are already running 20 spoke.

To upgrade to modern standard, you'll need to have the chainstays spread and cold set. You are likely to have a 126mm spread at current.
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Old 01-14-07, 01:06 PM   #8
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Tom's got it. The rear dropout spacing may not be 130mm like on most bikes sold today. If the frame is steel, you can cold set it to increase the dropout spacing. Next up is does your old bike have 27" wheels and is the new wheelset 700c? If so, will your brakes reach the new rim? Lastly, if you want to continue using your old RD, The new wheel will need a free wheel hub, not a cassette hub and the wheel will probably need to be re-dished.
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Old 01-14-07, 01:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyossarian
Tom's got it. The rear dropout spacing may not be 130mm like on most bikes sold today. If the frame is steel, you can cold set it to increase the dropout spacing. Next up is does your old bike have 27" wheels and is the new wheelset 700c? If so, will your brakes reach the new rim? Lastly, if you want to continue using your old RD, The new wheel will need a free wheel hub, not a cassette hub and the wheel will probably need to be re-dished.
One of the things or so that you learn when you ride vintage steel by choice! That's the primary reason I've never converted from 27" to 700c. Brake reach would definitely also be an issue. You would need to be able to either move the pads down 4mm on the calipers (If you have Weinmann Centerpulls or Weinmann sidepulls, this shouldn't be a problem, incidentally and Weinmann is standard Schwinn Equipment). I just hunted up the specs an the LeTour and you shouldn't have a brake reach problem.

Here's a link to buy some 36 hole 700c rims and you can build with your current hubs...one solution! By the way, a competently done handbuilt wheel is eminently superior to a machine built wheel.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/velocity.asp
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Old 01-14-07, 05:32 PM   #10
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Thanks, everyone, for all the helpful input. I need to read through these comments, and maybe post some followup questions later. For now, my brain is frazzled from today. I think in the moment all I'm good for is Foo'ing around a bit before hittin' the hay early.

For now, BTW, my brake pads can be lowered at least 4mm, and my spread, best I can tell is 123mm! I have a roadie friend who wants to spread his '86 Bianchi frame, and I'm gonna help him. If that's successful, then we'll do mine.
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Old 01-14-07, 05:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegaVixen
Anyone know if Spinenergy XAero wheels will work with my Schwinn LeTour ('84) free-hub?
Just do it, if it doesn't work then at least you will know.
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Old 01-14-07, 07:31 PM   #12
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VegaVixen - Please don't take offense, but why are you going through the trouble to do this? Why not save your cash & energy and get a newer used bike that's more suited for time trialing?
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Old 01-14-07, 08:07 PM   #13
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VegaVixen - Please don't take offense, but why are you going through the trouble to do this? Why not save your cash & energy and get a newer used bike that's more suited for time trialing?
I tend to agree with USA Zorro here, Vega!

Leave the Schwinn stock and original and buy a TT bike. The Schwinn as is a great touring ride! There aren't issues getting quality 27" tires either. If you do decide to change things around, just lace a 700c wheelset based on your current hubs and leave the rest of the bike as is. Heck, a freewheel will outlast a cassette as far as wear goes and the only advantage you will get from an upgrade to a modern cassette hub is a wider axle/bearing configuration and at your size and weight, the additional strength will never be an issue, or should I put it as the narrower axle/bearing config will never cause issues with strength at your size as based on current config. BY the time you are done, you'll have enough money tied up in that Schwinn to have a pretty respectable portion of the cost of a TT bike and have a machine that is no longer suitable for touring and not ideal for TT either....neither fish nor fowl, so to speak! Why screw up a perfectly good touring machine?
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Old 01-14-07, 08:15 PM   #14
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The wheels on the bike go 'round and 'round, 'round and 'round, 'round and round
The wheels on the bike...Oops, wrong forum!
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Old 01-14-07, 08:18 PM   #15
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Well, without having carefully read all of the helpful posts above, I must admit that I will be buying a new roadbike soon. If I find that I really enjoy TT by mid-season, I will invest in a TT bike. So, I'm hearin' what you're saying with regard to my old beater. I'll keep you all informed. And, I still need to finish reading and absorbing the advice given above....

Thanks, all. This is very important to my life. You so know. You are all so wonderfully supportive. I am teary-eyed tonight....
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Old 01-14-07, 09:35 PM   #16
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Hey we are here for that, to help each other out in our goals. It seems the both of us both want to do TT.

Best advice I can give you right now is read the UCI rules on bike restrictions....it will prevent the headaches I am going through now with re-fitting my bike....having to get that seat 5cm behind the BB axle is proving to be a huge PITA for me, since that means I have to pull back the bars 5cm, which can't happen unless I find a 40mm 1" threadless stem (standard bars)....but that measurement might change once I get the right height fork installed.....sheesh. Since your bike is based on threaded stems and the like, you will actually have an easier time with the refittings to make the bike adhere to the rules.
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