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Old 02-10-07, 09:23 PM   #1
Portis
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Where to put weight in pinewood car?

I am lost on where to else to sink weight in this pinewood derby car. As the car sits, it is 3.46 ounces. I need to get to 5 oz. The wheels and axels weigh .6 ounces combined so that gives me a shade over 4 ounces. Paint will add a little but not much.

I have drilled nearly clear through the car at each location you see a hole, so you you have to keep that in mind. Also I am trying to keep my weight to the back.

TOP




Bottom



Right Side


(bad pic- hole to the left and back. )
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Old 02-10-07, 09:27 PM   #2
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I would think in the front?
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Old 02-10-07, 09:30 PM   #3
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1/3 of the way back, and on the bottom to keep the center of gravity low.
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Old 02-10-07, 09:37 PM   #4
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What i am learning is that is damned near impossible to get these cars to weight. I am using slit shot lead fishing sinkers right now and those things don't weigh anything. Earlier i used some "lead" weights that were longer designed for these cars, but still they were a small fraction of an ounce.

I just weighed a split shot and it weighed .08 ounces!!!! So that makes me turn the hood into swiss cheese.
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Old 02-10-07, 10:09 PM   #5
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I think keep the weight toward the back. That way when you get near the bottom of the ramp, the weight is still on the downhill part of the ramp after the front wheels are on the flat. The difference is probably negligible though.
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Old 02-10-07, 10:11 PM   #6
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I guess the point i have failed to make is that i am out of room to sink weight into int in the back.
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Old 02-10-07, 10:14 PM   #7
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leave the weight exposed, carve it out after painting to be exact.
cheat and use heavier wheels-more momentum
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Old 02-10-07, 10:15 PM   #8
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oops, sorry.
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Old 02-10-07, 10:24 PM   #9
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if you put all the weight in the back you run the risk of the back passing the front if it gets out of shape.
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Old 02-10-07, 10:32 PM   #10
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another cheat-spray the wheels all over with silicone dry lube spray
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Old 02-10-07, 11:08 PM   #11
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A friend's son is in scouts. He recently asked me the question. I told him I always went for the design or looks award. He sent me this.

On a recent trip to a hobby shop, they had a whole aisle dedicated to Pinewood derby. They had weight plates that could be put on the bottom. Have you thougth about using tungsten weights? If I remember correctly it weighs more than lead.
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Old 02-11-07, 12:40 AM   #12
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i had a freind that drilled out the axle screws to fill them with graphit and he machined the wheels round and smooth and it helped, but he had accses to a machine shop to do this
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Old 02-11-07, 12:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Portis
I guess the point i have failed to make is that i am out of room to sink weight into int in the back.
My dad would drill a hole in the body, then fill it with molten lead (I'm guessing solder and torch but it was too young to pay attention to that). Takes up a lot less space and you can easily drill out a bit if it measures overweight before the race.
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Old 02-11-07, 01:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderMike
They had weight plates that could be put on the bottom.
This would work, They used to make weight plates for the bottom of HO slot cars that did an excellent job.
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Old 02-11-07, 02:00 AM   #15
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For best results, put all of available weight in the judge's pocket in the form of diamonds, gold bullion, silver ingots, and the like.
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Old 02-11-07, 08:55 AM   #16
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why did you remove so much wood. Aero is not important, weight placement is. weight should be low and far back. my preferred method is to drill two holes from the back of the car to the front just above axle height and place weight in there. seal with epoxy.
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Old 02-11-07, 10:45 PM   #17
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The first year I raced a pine wood derby car I got my a$# kicked!!! The next year I took 3rd place. I put all my weight in a hollowed out groove between the axles. I used a ton of graphite for wheel lubrication too!!
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