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Old 03-15-07, 12:01 PM   #1
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Should I get this car?

A friend of mine just offered me his car for only 200 dollars. He is getting rid of it because he and his wife are expecting a baby next month (this guy is in his 30's). It's a 1993 Honda accord, he says it is the most reliable car he has ever owned.

I've seen this car, I've actually been in the car once. DIdn't seem like there was anything wrong with it. My only concern is that it has 272,000 miles. He says it runs fine though, here is the description he gave me:

"It always gets 31/32 miles per gallon, 450 miles to the tank. It's a 5 speed manual. It has 4 good tires on it, I had done a front brake job about a year and a half ago, it has a new windshield in it, and for a 1993 it only has a little rust. It has power windows, power locks, power mirrors, AC - and amazingly the original radio. I've driven it for the last 7 years, and it has been the most relible car I've ever owned. The exhaust should be good for another year. The clutch has never really been an issue - it is still original!?!? That may be a problem at some point, but for $200..."

But he did a Kelly bluebook value check on it, for it's specifications, it should be $1090. In fact, here is the link:
http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/Pric...izConditions=0

My inexperienced self says that for 200 dollars, I should snag it. If the clutch is an issue, surely it won't cost 800 dollars to replace. SO, I am still ahead in that regard, I think. Again, I have no experience buying a car, so that is why I ask. My friend is a mechanical engineer, so I know he maintained the car himself for the most part, and I do believe he knows what he is doing. It passed the last state inspection alright.

So, what do you think?
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Old 03-15-07, 12:13 PM   #2
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Buy it. You could easily get another 30-40k miles out of it.
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Old 03-15-07, 12:15 PM   #3
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I would buy it in a heart beat. Drive it until it breaks down then junk it. Then again, I just spent close to $200 on bottle cages.
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Old 03-15-07, 12:19 PM   #4
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So my instincts were correct! Yay!
Now, what will be the first thing that will go? Just so I can prepare for a purchase of that if need be. I won't necessarily install any replacement parts 'till they go, I just want to know what I will need so I can plan accordingly. I know HOnda is a pretty reliable name, I've heard of people getting 300k miles easily.

My parents have been pushing me to learn and drive a manual for my first car, so this is certainly a good one.
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Old 03-15-07, 12:44 PM   #5
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Take It Now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't Sit In This Thread Any Longer...go Buy It Already!!!!!!
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Old 03-15-07, 12:50 PM   #6
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I'd buy it. A clutch on that sort of car shouldn't be too expensive, somewhere around $500ish, maybe less.

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Old 03-15-07, 12:53 PM   #7
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Take It Now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't Sit In This Thread Any Longer...go Buy It Already!!!!!!
I just called my parents, they said to wait until they get home and we can look at it. So the clutch is the first thing to go? How hard is hte clutch to install? Just need a general time frame so I can calculate labor cost
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Old 03-15-07, 12:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomcow2
So my instincts were correct! Yay!
Now, what will be the first thing that will go? Just so I can prepare for a purchase of that if need be. I won't necessarily install any replacement parts 'till they go, I just want to know what I will need so I can plan accordingly. I know HOnda is a pretty reliable name, I've heard of people getting 300k miles easily.

My parents have been pushing me to learn and drive a manual for my first car, so this is certainly a good one.
My Buick had almost 300k miles when I sold it (81 Regal)....any car can be reliable so long as it's taken care of....and in the case of my Buick, sometimes even if it's getting the crap beat out of it.

Keep in mind money for tires, oil changes, swapping out your coolant and radiator hoses/thermostat, wiper blades, etc. Anything that is fluid or rubber tends to need periodical inspection or replacement. Also keep in mind you may need a new clutch sooner or later, since you are just learning...Hondas have extremely light clutches, so it's very easy to burn one out if your foot happens to be constnatly resting on the pedal.

Most rubber and fluids are very easy to replace yourself (with exception to tires...have a pro do it). Clutches can be easy, or difficult to replace depending on the way the car is laid out, and what it will take to get it out.
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Old 03-15-07, 12:56 PM   #9
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I had a 1987 Honda Accord I replaced in 2004 that was still going strong. I only replaced it because I wanted something with less rust (and that was both a station wagon and German).
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Old 03-15-07, 01:00 PM   #10
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That car is just getting broken in! Buy it already and forget about obsessing over the clutch.
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Old 03-15-07, 01:16 PM   #11
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Clutchs aren't the easiest things to replace, but since you probably don't need to rely on the car for every day trans, it'll be good experience replacing it yourself.

if the car runs and drives, can't go wrong for $200

I'd also be cautious on sinking a lot of money in, do the repairs yourself and save.
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Old 03-15-07, 01:18 PM   #12
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I use eBay for damn near everything, but I have never touched eBay motors. How is ebay for a source of parts? lol, I know this is going to irritate but I found a clutch on ebay, will this fit the accord if need be?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clutc...QQcmdZViewItem

Is that what I need?
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Old 03-15-07, 01:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Clutchs aren't the easiest things to replace, but since you probably don't need to rely on the car for every day trans, it'll be good experience replacing it yourself.

if the car runs and drives, can't go wrong for $200

I'd also be cautious on sinking a lot of money in, do the repairs yourself and save.
I plan on doing as much as I can in regards to repairs. I know I am mechanically inclined, and my fathers got tons of tools since his hobby is diesel mechanics. He still fixes my moms gas, VW golf though. If the work is something that has to be done with the car on a the jack, suspended several feet for access underneath, I'm afraid I don't have that facility.
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Old 03-15-07, 01:30 PM   #14
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Hmm, what about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...QQcmdZViewItem

Question, when they say "clutch kit", does that mean it includes everything you need for a replacement?
It appears that you can buy aftermarket stuff, different than stock. This is all new to me.
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Old 03-15-07, 01:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomcow2
Hmm, what about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...QQcmdZViewItem

Question, when they say "clutch kit", does that mean it includes everything you need for a replacement?
It appears that you can buy aftermarket stuff, different than stock. This is all new to me.
Why are you shopping for a clutch that doesn't need replacing? It doesn't sound like it needs replacing, it's just that it's old. The '87 I had was on its original clutch and was still going strong.
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Old 03-15-07, 01:35 PM   #16
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Why are you shopping for a clutch that doesn't need replacing? It doesn't sound like it needs replacing, it's just that it's old. The '87 I had was on its original clutch and was still going strong.
I am not looking to buy anything. I just want to become familiar with it all
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Old 03-15-07, 01:38 PM   #17
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Oh, what does he mean by "exhaust system"? Is that just the exhaust pipe corroding? Can this be repaired, perhaps with welding? Or does that have to simply be replaced all together?
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Old 03-15-07, 01:51 PM   #18
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"Clutch kit" typically refers to: clutch-disc, pressure-plate, throwout-bearing. Typically in these FWD cars, you have to remove the engine to R&R the clutch. Count on about $300-500 for the clutch-kit and about $1500-2000 in labour to do the job. Rear-wheel drive cars typically have more room and you can replace the clutch with leaving the engine in place. Of the Japanese cars, Hondas tend to cost the most to maintain. Toyota and Nissan costs a lot less for parts & labour. Although getting 300k+ miles out of these things aren't uncommon at all.

"Exhaust system" can mean everything starting at the exhaust-ports all the way to the muffler. So you're looking at the exhaust-headers, catalytic converter, 1 or 2 oxygen-sensors, tailpipe & muffler. Usuallly the only thing that goes wrong with an exaust is the O2-sensors go bad and needs replacing ($40-50/ea). The catalytic can fail over time and give you higher-than-allowed emissionss ($100-200 to replace). The header gaskets may leak over time ($5/ea).
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Old 03-15-07, 01:55 PM   #19
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the clutch "kits" come with everything usually. All it consists of is the Pressure plate, Clutch disc, bearing and Alignment tool. And it is a good idea to also get the flywheel resurfaced.

As far as the exhaust. They usually rust out and can not be fixed with welding as the metal gets in such bad shape any welder will just burn up the metal and make it fall apart.

I would buy the car but keep in mind some prices like

Clutch can be from $200-$400
Clutch install can be from $250 - $500
Exhaust can be from $150 - $500 installed

If you cant do it yourself or get stuck with some of the higher prices you could be spending over $1000. Since the car is so cheap do the maintenance yourself. As far as the exhaust if you are on a real tight budget and cant replace it there are ways around it. On one of my cars i hose clamped a cut up aluminum soda can over the holes and it was quiet again and held up for awhile.

Also dont worry about the mileage. I had a honda that i sold with 206,000 that was going strong. My friend also had a honda with 407,000 miles that ran great too.
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Old 03-15-07, 02:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
"Clutch kit" typically refers to: clutch-disc, pressure-plate, throwout-bearing. Typically in these FWD cars, you have to remove the engine to R&R the clutch. Count on about $300-500 for the clutch-kit and about $1500-2000 in labour to do the job. Rear-wheel drive cars typically have more room and you can replace the clutch with leaving the engine in place. Of the Japanese cars, Hondas tend to cost the most to maintain. Toyota and Nissan costs a lot less for parts & labour. Although getting 300k+ miles out of these things aren't uncommon at all.

"Exhaust system" can mean everything starting at the exhaust-ports all the way to the muffler. So you're looking at the exhaust-headers, catalytic converter, 1 or 2 oxygen-sensors, tailpipe & muffler. Usuallly the only thing that goes wrong with an exaust is the O2-sensors go bad and needs replacing ($40-50/ea). The catalytic can fail over time and give you higher-than-allowed emissionss ($100-200 to replace). The header gaskets may leak over time ($5/ea).
Are you serious? Im sure any company will tell you to remove the engine to replace a clutch. I have done a clutch on many different company FWD cars and not once did I have to remove the engine. Even if you did it would probably only make things easier. Labor is usually around $300-400 but can be a little more or less. Not $1500. If they try to charge you that laugh in there face and leave.

As far as Hondas costing the most to maintain what a joke. Honda cars have the biggest following out of any nissan, toyota, ect... Heres what I paid for an entire swap to put in a rolling chassis. you let me know how "expensive it is to own a honda". I got a complete B16a longblock with all sensors, S1 transmission, axles, shift linkage, engine mounts, ECU, exhaust header, full OEM gasket kit for the entire top end, 10 OEM honda oil filters, 2 quarts of tranny fluid, plus a lot more for $1000. Thats an entire swap to put in my car for $1000.

I also got a d16a6 for another car for $60. Yea thats not a typo. $60 for a longblock no transmission but a running engine.

If you get the car and it turns out it needs a clutch or anything and it might cost you a lot for everything. I would just go buy another complete engine and put that in for cheaper.

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Old 03-15-07, 02:04 PM   #21
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I just called my parents, they said to wait until they get home and we can look at it. So the clutch is the first thing to go? How hard is hte clutch to install? Just need a general time frame so I can calculate labor cost
I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but, I have made numerous repairs by myself on various vehicles I've owned thanks to some help from this site: http://www.automotiveforums.com

There are also some good step by step instructions for all types of vehicles under the Vehicle Repair Guides Link here: http://www.autozone.com/repair_info.htm

Let me tell you something else too...you may get really really lucky and not have to dump a dime into this car...however...IMO, things like plugs/wires, belts/hoses, brake pads, a battery, alternator, or exhaust wear out and may need to be replaced at some point...sometimes sooner rather than later. Still, don't fret it...the money spent for that stuff is in no comparison to monthly payment for a new car. For $200, if its in good running condition, with no major mechanincal problems, and the frame in one piece this is a good deal. Even if you had to put in one major repair down the road ($300 to $600) its STILL a good deal.

Trust me...I've owned my share of $200-$1000 beater cars.
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Old 03-15-07, 02:09 PM   #22
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ALright I just asked my dad. He said that he had a clutch replaced like 6 or 7 years ago, and it cost about 300 parts and labor. That was for a 1985 Toyota Corolla. The mechanic we used said expect 200ish labor, he charges 55$/hour flat fee.

It sounds like this car will be mine this weekend
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Old 03-15-07, 02:14 PM   #23
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Thanks for the quick and helpful replies everybody
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Old 03-15-07, 02:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turboem1
the clutch "kits" come with everything usually. All it consists of is the Pressure plate, Clutch disc, bearing and Alignment tool. And it is a good idea to also get the flywheel resurfaced.
.

The flywheel resurfaced, can you explain this? I didn't even know there was a flywheel
Is this a steel machined flywheel that must be perfectly flat? Does resurfacing mean it needs to be faced again? I work at a machine shop, maybe I could face it at work if this is a lathe job. How much material is removed? A couple thousandths at most I would assume for a simply facing. Well I suppose the appropriate question is, how large is this flywheel? Weight isn't a big deal, but size is.
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Old 03-15-07, 02:24 PM   #25
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How much is insurance? Are you going to get your own policy?
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