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Old 10-02-07, 11:55 AM   #1
phantomcow2
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Anybody here passivated stainless steel?

I am told that in order to passivate stainless steel, I'll need a strong concentration of Citric acid, and NaOH.
Well I got both of these from work.

I was wondering if anybody here has been able to passivate stainless steel components on their own. If so, was it a success? My stainless steel tubes are going to be in a potentially corrosive environment 24/7, so I want the best very best.
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Old 10-02-07, 12:05 PM   #2
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I'm beginning to wonder if answering your questions is supporting terrorism.
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Old 10-02-07, 12:06 PM   #3
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Never tried it, but here's a good article on the theory behind passivation, including 3 methods and their various applications, and a well-written how-to.

http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/100304.html
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Old 10-02-07, 12:07 PM   #4
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ex-lax
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Old 10-02-07, 12:11 PM   #5
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Dude, you so need a second job, or a third job, or a woman, or something.
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Old 10-02-07, 12:11 PM   #6
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ex-lax
It took me a little while to get it.

Um... ew.
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Old 10-02-07, 12:18 PM   #7
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Gold plate it? Gold is about as non-reactive as it gets.
You have asked about electroplating in the past.
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Old 10-02-07, 12:34 PM   #8
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Gold plate it? Gold is about as non-reactive as it gets.
You have asked about everything known to man or beast in the past.
fixed
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Old 10-02-07, 01:19 PM   #9
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OffTopic: mr. b, are you MERTON's smarter brother?

:-)

OnTopic: interesting question... i assume you've figured out the cleaning step? and you're sure about the sodium hydroxide solution? what about the sodium dichromate?
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Old 10-02-07, 03:35 PM   #10
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The cleaning step is acetone. I was impatient after I machined my delrin spacer last night after work, so I went ahead and pressed in dirty tubes into there. BUt, now I need to take it apart and do it right .
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Old 10-02-07, 03:55 PM   #11
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Oh, pleeeeeeeeezzzzeeeee tell us what you're building!!! Is it a doomsday device?
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Old 10-02-07, 03:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomcow2 View Post
I am told that in order to passivate stainless steel, I'll need a strong concentration of Citric acid, and NaOH.
Well I got both of these from work.

I was wondering if anybody here has been able to passivate stainless steel components on their own. If so, was it a success? My stainless steel tubes are going to be in a potentially corrosive environment 24/7, so I want the best very best.
do you ever ask a question that a non-nerd would be able to aswer?
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Old 10-02-07, 04:07 PM   #13
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Oh, pleeeeeeeeezzzzeeeee tell us what you're building!!! Is it a doomsday device?
I'll tell you when it's done. I'll take a picture first and let people guess.
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Old 10-02-07, 04:08 PM   #14
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do you ever ask a question that a non-nerd would be able to aswer?
Why do you ask questions that you can answer yourself?
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Old 10-02-07, 04:11 PM   #15
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as soon as I read the thread title, I knew in my mind that the ptcow2 was at something new in his labratory.
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Old 10-02-07, 04:35 PM   #16
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Why do you ask questions that you can answer yourself?
i have many lawyers in the family.
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Old 10-02-07, 04:37 PM   #17
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Someone bet me $5 that I couldn't swallow a quarter.

The x-ray still sits on my wall.
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Old 10-02-07, 05:03 PM   #18
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Someone bet me $5 that I couldn't swallow a quarter.

The x-ray still sits on my wall.
After a night of partying it up, a friend of mine puked all over the floor...which sucked. But the $.75 we found in the puke made it worth while.
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Old 10-02-07, 05:04 PM   #19
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is passivating the same as pickling. I think they use much stronger acids for that (nitric or flouric).
If memory serves me correctly...


which it often doesn't
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Old 10-04-07, 05:34 AM   #20
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do you ever ask a question that a non-nerd would be able to aswer?
*sigh*

OK, here goes...

The latest material specification controlling passivation is AMS 2700. This replaces QQ-P-35, which has been around forever. There are two methods and eight types of passivation described. In addition, since my company is in CA, we have our OWN passivation spec, which uses weaker concentrations of Nitric for a longer period.

You want Method 2, using citric acid, so we go to Paragraph 3.1.4 (hahaha)... here goes...

Parts shall be immersed in an aqueous solution of 4 to 10 weight percent citric acid, with additional wetting agents and inhibitors as applicable.

Temperature: Bath temperature shall be 70 to 160 ºF with immersion time of not less than 4 minutes for baths operating over 140ºF, not less than 10 minutes for baths operating in the 120 to 140ºF range, or not less than 20 minutes for baths operating below 120ºF.

Post treatment: When a post treatment is specified, after rinsing, parts made from ferritic, martensitic, and precipitation hardened steels shall be immersed in a solution contining 4 to 6% by weight of sodium dichromoate dihydrate at 140 to 160ºF for one hours, rinsed and dried.


The NaOH is not part of the passivation process, I'm guessing it's to neutralize the citric acid before disposal. NaOH is a strong base, and can be very dangerous, so be very careful with it.

However, this Wiki article says citric acid is not hazardous to dispose of, as is nitric.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citric_acid

But hey, it's Wikipedia! Just the same, be careful what you dump down the drain in NH.

Have fun.
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Old 10-04-07, 06:00 AM   #21
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ALl done . Did it last night. I have no idea if it works, but my tubes are shiny clean.
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Old 10-04-07, 06:03 AM   #22
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ALl done . Did it last night. I have no idea if it works, but my tubes are shiny clean.
Oh...

Well, it's a bit late, but here's the MSDS too...

Glad it worked!

http://www.chemistrystore.com/Chemic...RIC%20ACID.pdf
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Old 10-04-07, 06:06 AM   #23
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Oh, I've already got the citric acid MSDS. We order it at work sometimes.
I followed hte instructions on this site:
http://www.cartech.com/machining_zone/citric_pass.html

This was 304, so I heated my water to 150 degrees and let it sit for 30 minutes. We're getting closer to success here! Just one more package and some quality sit-down time.
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