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Old 10-06-07, 09:53 AM   #1
phantomcow2
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What is the first thing that is likely to fail?

So today, I watched my odometer reach 275,000 on my '93 Accord. I'm impressed. This car has seen only synthetic oil with 7500 mile oil changes, timing belt + water pump changed every 100k miles, the usual stuff.
Whenever I see people deciding to send their cars to the junk yard, it's almost always because the body has rusted out badly, and is not worth fixing. Well there is no rust on this car, not even around the rear wheel. So I wonder, assuming your normal maintenance has been done, what do you expect will be the first major thing to fail? Something major that would make most people just give up on the car that is.
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Old 10-06-07, 10:20 AM   #2
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No idea on what's going to go on your honda. I had to replace 2 rear axles on a legacy in about a year and a half when I was doing a lot of road trips. Scrapped.
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Old 10-06-07, 10:22 AM   #3
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electrical wiring if the engine doesn't give up first, shouldn't be too much longer before the cylinder head needs work, exhaust valves are probably pretty well cooked at this point

you will also at some point have to deal with stupid stuff like window regulators, locks, and anything rubber in the suspension that has gotten old and rotted, fortunately in an accord that isn't much
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Old 10-06-07, 10:53 AM   #4
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CV joints (if they have not been serviced yet that is).

I also agree with electrical....I have yet to see any car under a normal maintenance level with 200k+ that doesn't have at least one electrical quirk or more. I reccomend buying a few spools of replacement wire...get the same type of cable, preferably in the same colors...that way the wire harness is just as easy to decode as the stock one was, not worse. You will thank yourself for this later on (what the HELL is this cable?????? AW NUTS!!!! ANGRYFACE!!!!).

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Old 10-06-07, 10:55 AM   #5
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I had a Supra for 10-years and put 254k-miles on it. I learned to drive stick-shift on that car and abused the snot out of it zinging it past regularly. During that time, I really just did the usual maintenance items, timing-belt, oil, coolant, brake-fluid changes and brake-pads. Only repair was a failed voltage-regulator in the alternator. When it finally died, it was the rod-bearings that had worn out.
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Old 10-06-07, 02:59 PM   #6
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CV joints were replaced 2 years ago.

The engine seems to run well. The car does vibrate a bit at idle though. I can literally see the hood shaking, almost like a diesel! It's probably set at around 550-600rpm.
I am able to run in 5th gear at 1350rpm, putting me at just over 33mph. It doesn't even shake or anything. Maybe I'll have him run a compression test. I think it's alright, but you never know.

My only concern is the transmission. I know for a fact that my clutch has at least 160k miles on it. It's had the cylinders replaced though. I suspect that the pressure plate is original, but I know for a fact that it does not slip. I rev match every shift now out of habit, whether it's shifting up or down. Hopefully this will stretch the life a little more.

When I shift into any gear, I'll often feel a mild "thunk". It's not enough to make me spill my coffee, but maybe enough to make a small ripple on the surface. If I rev match perfectly, I will hardly feel it. BUt if I rev match anything less than perfectly, I'll feel it. Is this an indication of wear? Perhaps by the syncro's? Is there any other test to be done which can check for wear in the transmission?
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Old 10-06-07, 06:57 PM   #7
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Hondas are pretty tough little cars. My 97 Integra has 362,xxxkms on it with the original clutch, motor and trans in it. All the usual things I've done, like ball joints, wheel bearing, brakes, exhaust repairs and the like, but I've had this going on ten years. It's just now starting some rust bubbles around the rear wheel wells, but I live in Southern Ontario, snowy in the winter, so lots of salt on the road. Keep up with the regular maint and that car will last a long time. I'm hoping for another ten years out of this car, if I get on top of the (minor) rust issues.

I almost forgot, it's not all roses. If I'm siting in traffic with the lights on, I can tell my alternator isn't what it once was. If I rev it a little in neutral, my headlights and interior lights get brighter momentarily and then dim again. Well, what do want for a ten year old car?
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Old 10-06-07, 09:22 PM   #8
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Why worry about it?

When something breaks, you're gonna fix it.
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Old 10-07-07, 10:35 AM   #9
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Rust out a car body??

How do you do that??
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Old 10-07-07, 10:37 AM   #10
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Rust out a car body??

How do you do that??

Seal it in an underground time capsule.
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Old 10-07-07, 10:50 AM   #11
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Considering your a new driver I`d say the front bumper
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Old 10-07-07, 11:03 AM   #12
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What is the first thing that is likely to fail ?

My knees.

Or my prostate.
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Old 10-07-07, 11:41 AM   #13
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exhaust manifold, head gasket or main relay (or something else electrical)
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Old 10-07-07, 01:45 PM   #14
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Probably the motor mount(s) doing the clunking.,,,,BD
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Old 10-08-07, 05:41 AM   #15
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Probably the motor mount(s) doing the clunking.,,,,BD

Clunk during shifting? Motor mounts are the first thing to check.

I agree, Bikedued.
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Old 10-08-07, 01:45 PM   #16
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CV joints were replaced 2 years ago.

The engine seems to run well. The car does vibrate a bit at idle though. I can literally see the hood shaking, almost like a diesel! It's probably set at around 550-600rpm.
I am able to run in 5th gear at 1350rpm, putting me at just over 33mph. It doesn't even shake or anything. Maybe I'll have him run a compression test. I think it's alright, but you never know.
Shaking at idle is probably motor mounts. Uneven power-output between the cylinders will also cause shaking. If compression-test shows even pressure between cylinder, you can still have uneven power-output if there's intake or exhaust-manifold leaks. Do a leakdown test as well since that's more accurate than compression-check. Will give you better indication of your valves' sealing. Uneven fuel-metering due to clogged injectors can also lead to uneven power between the cylinders, as would be the injector wiring.
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Old 10-08-07, 01:58 PM   #17
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What is the first thing that is likely to fail?
The user.
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Old 10-08-07, 02:11 PM   #18
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Rust out a car body??

How do you do that??


Drive in New England for one winter.
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Old 10-08-07, 02:14 PM   #19
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Drive in New England for one winter.
Or live in San Francisco right by the shore.
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Old 10-08-07, 02:23 PM   #20
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I miss seeing all the wooden body work trucks driving around New England. Hole in the floor? Put down some plywood!
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Old 10-08-07, 04:00 PM   #21
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Rust out a car body??

How do you do that??
You apparently, have never had the pleasure of driving over salty slush covered roads.
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Old 10-08-07, 04:11 PM   #22
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For the shaking idle, you need to adjust your timing, which should be easy because you are running OBD1 correct? Do a fuel system cleaner, and clean out the throttle body. Things to expect, well nothing major in the engine as long as you keep it up. Suspension parts like ball joints could fail. I would mostly keep an eye on obvious problems, leaks, etc... I have 149k on my Honda and i don't have any problems.

P.S. Check the motor mounts as well. I know a 3 guys, both have 1986 Honda Accords. One of them reached 500,000 on stock parts then went to the junkyard because the guy didn't want to fix it up. Another is almost at 500,000 miles and he intends to keep going. The other guy has almost 400,000 on his, he did a compression test and his compression was really good the for the mileage of the engine.
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