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Thread: Bespoked suits

  1. #1
    The Truth Ih8lucky13's Avatar
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    Bespoked suits

    I am thinking of buying some custom made suits. Has anybody here have any experience in buying from a tailor.
    Sean Kelly is a god, sure a god that I can't understand a word he is saying, but a god nonetheless.

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    Ogr8nwmypstmksnosnse pgoat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ih8lucky13 View Post
    I am thinking of buying some custom made suits. Has anybody here have any experience in buying from a tailor.
    yes.

    it's expensive. You get what you pay for.


    imo, it's well worth the cost if:

    *you can afford it (especially at present!)

    *you are a hard to fit size (if you can look good in OTR - and many of us cannot - why pay hundreds or even thousands more?)

    *you need/want to look really good (and that will be shaped more by you, rather than the suit - if you need to lose weight or get in shape, I'd say do that first).

    to find good people in your area, look on Styleforum or askandy

    if you're buying in NY feel free to PM me.
    Last edited by pgoat; 03-03-09 at 10:30 AM.
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  3. #3
    Blasted Weeds Tude's Avatar
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    Have a couple of male professors here at school who dress "to the nines" - they look fantastic! Different colored suits too, not the usual blue pinstriped, etc. And coupled with the awesome shirts and ties - it's quite a package! And the suits fit perfectly too. Both guys purchase custom suits. The one guy does because he's a BIG man - 6'5", prolly 300-325 lbs. He's even got a dark lavenderish suit - and he pulls it off nicely.

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    . botto's Avatar
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    I had three made when I was in Thailand last summer, although I'm not convinced that what I got was entirely bespoke.

    Not the best quality, but as pgoat wrote, you get what you pay for. Couple of things - don't cheap out on the material, and be prepared for a few fittings.

    Where do you plan on getting the suits made?

  5. #5
    Ogr8nwmypstmksnosnse pgoat's Avatar
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    It's a process - even the best tailor usually says they 'get it right' after the second of third suit for a given customer. Just little tweaks here and there, based on feedback from the wearer. So maybe get a so-so fabric on the first one and then go for the really nice wool after. Good fabric is probably 1/3 the deal, with your physique and general bearing and the cut of the suit being the other 2/3.

    My wife def. noticed when I wore my first custom. Mine was a cheesy 10 oz grey serge. After maybe a dozen wearings the wool already is showing its age. But they got the cut almost perfect so It basically looks like a very well cut cheap suit. When I go back (Ned's in NY) I'd ask for a few minor fit tweaks but get a much better wool the second time, and maybe a 12-14 oz. It will probably double the price of the suit though!

    Cut does matter. If you see guys like Bill Clinton in a swimsuit you'll know what a good, well-cut business suit can do for us
    I have a nice navy suit made by the same tailor who does his suits and it is a much more forgiving cut (more room for my gut). I had Neds do it more close and trim.
    Last edited by pgoat; 03-03-09 at 10:41 AM.
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  6. #6
    The Truth Ih8lucky13's Avatar
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    I plan on getting my suits made from, http://www.steed.co.uk/.

    I actually chatted with the tailor from AskAndy.

    He will be at the Drake in Chicago in late March.

    His prices are actually comparable to suits in the Ralph Lauren Black Label range.

    I think in this tough job market dressing well is just having another leg up.
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    Ogr8nwmypstmksnosnse pgoat's Avatar
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    that sounds good.

    If i fit into otr well I'd go with RLBL in a second, as well as Oxxford. I mainly have fit troubles with the lower half (short legs, but oversized due to cycling and basic genetics).
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  8. #8
    The quieter you become... Falkon's Avatar
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    Luckily, most off the rack suits fit me pretty well. I had one off the rack suit that was tailored a few years back when I was basically still growing a bit and it fits me perfectly now. I just got one made of great material and had it cut large so I could grow into it. It was a Christmas present.
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  9. #9
    Ogr8nwmypstmksnosnse pgoat's Avatar
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    another thought if this might help some looking to get a good suit for less $, esp as many of us will be job hunting these days - some stores, such as Brooks Bros sell suits as separates - so you can buy two different sizes for the jacket and pants. even if they each need a little alteration here and there (and pretty much every suit, regardless of price, will) you could get a sorta custom OTR fit that way that could work for some people. The prices on these are typically very reasonable.

    fwiw, I have a Brooks Bros OTR suit bought on sale (a beautiful heavy flannel Golden Fleece chalk stripe for about 1/3 the regular price) and a Martin Greenfield MTM. the GF flannel, with just a few basic tweaks like leg and sleeve length, fits about as well as the other suit, which cost three times as much. so MTM at the same store in my case wasn't such a great buy.

    The bespoke suit I paid in between those two for elsewhere is of far inferior fabric and workmanship (I had some loose seams and whatnot to bring it back for) but the fit is markedly better, even on a first try. I'll go back there when I have the dough and need a new suit, and get better fabric this time.

    I'd also like to try WW Chan of Hong Kong....supposedly great bang/buck. If the economy recovers in a few years I am going to Leonard Logsdail here in NY ... if I won lotto I'd be in Hong Kong or London for Huntsman or Kilgour. Do a search for gcbc's HK suit pics - good stuff!

    Apparently the amazing suit Cary Grant wore through most of North by Northwest was done in HK, though it is often attributed to Kilgour, where CG bought his suits earlier in his career.
    Quote Originally Posted by jsharr View Post
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