Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Axle nut torque

  1. #1
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    6,266
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Axle nut torque

    I'm completing the brake rotor swap on my '93 accord. I'm reading that the axle nut needs to be torqued to 134 ft/lbs. I have a torque wrench that goes to 150, but I bought it on eBay a few years ago and don't think it's accuracy is spot on. If the accuracy was off, say, +/- 10%, would there be any issue with the wheel bearing?
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  2. #2
    Senior Member mikeybikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Edgewater, CO
    My Bikes
    Tons
    Posts
    2,932
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Depends on how the wheel bearing is loaded, but within 10% should be fine. Just get it close.

    On my old 4WD Subarus, I just stood on the end of a breaker bar. Nothing like 200ft-lbs of torque to keep those axle nuts from backing out.
    My Bikes: 2009 Breezer Uptown EX | 1980 Miyata Six Ten | 1970 Hercules Three-Two-Speed
    Wife's Bike: 2008 Globe City 7

  3. #3
    Senior Member noise boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Baltimore
    My Bikes
    Cannondale CAAD9
    Posts
    725
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2 View Post
    I'm completing the brake rotor swap on my '93 accord. I'm reading that the axle nut needs to be torqued to 134 ft/lbs. I have a torque wrench that goes to 150, but I bought it on eBay a few years ago and don't think it's accuracy is spot on. If the accuracy was off, say, +/- 10%, would there be any issue with the wheel bearing?
    As long as it is consistently off by about the same amount, then no. Is this a beam type wrench, or a clicker type?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Terre Haute, Lafayette, or Indianapolis, IN, depending on the day
    My Bikes
    n, I would like n+1
    Posts
    1,917
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^^Are you sure you aren't thinking of lug nuts?

    OP-The nuts that set wheel bearing preload (if you even have those) tend to be around the "not quite hand tight" level. The retaining nuts, which do not preload the bearings, are held on at "more than 1 road cyclist on a 1 foot lever" torque, which is what your situation sounds like. 10% shouldn't be an issue in my non professional opinion. Also, all the axle nuts I've seen have a depression you set to keep them from turning out. Does it have one of those?

  5. #5
    Footballus vita est iamlucky13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Portland, OR
    My Bikes
    Trek 4500, Kona Dawg
    Posts
    2,118
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Our instrumentation tech told me a normal clicker type torque wrench should only be counted on for +/- 10% anyways.

    I'm pretty sure you'll be fine.

    If you want to test it, find something secure in a horizontal orientation to bolt onto, and set the wrench for a torque that you can apply in a controlled manner. For example, if you've got a 2 foot long handle and you have a 45 pound weight plate handy, set it for 90 ft-pounds and hang the weight on it. See if it clicks as you feather the load a little bit with your hand.
    "The internet is a place where absolutely nothing happens. You need to take advantage of that." ~ Strong Bad

  6. #6
    Senior Member mikeybikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Edgewater, CO
    My Bikes
    Tons
    Posts
    2,932
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
    OP-The nuts that set wheel bearing preload (if you even have those) tend to be around the "not quite hand tight" level. The retaining nuts, which do not preload the bearings, are held on at "more than 1 road cyclist on a 1 foot lever" torque, which is what your situation sounds like. 10% shouldn't be an issue in my non professional opinion. Also, all the axle nuts I've seen have a depression you set to keep them from turning out. Does it have one of those?
    Not entirely sure of the reason why, however on some cars too much torque from the axle nut can damage the bearing.

    Seen it before on an 80s 2WD Subaru. Those, you tried to get it close to the torque spec, but even 10% wasn't enough to cause a problem.

    And yes, the axle nut should either be a castle nut with a cotter pin or have a little depression that keeps the nut from backing out.

    I know nothing of Hondas though. Owned 10 cars, 8 of them Subarus.
    My Bikes: 2009 Breezer Uptown EX | 1980 Miyata Six Ten | 1970 Hercules Three-Two-Speed
    Wife's Bike: 2008 Globe City 7

  7. #7
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    6,266
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well the axle nut could damage the bearing because, at least on this car, it preloads the inner races of the angular contact bearing. Preloading gives the bearing axial stability, but too much preload puts too much pressure on the individual bearings and accelerates wear.
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  8. #8
    The Site Administrator: Currently at home recovering from a couple of strokes,please contact my assistnt admins for forum issues Tom Stormcrowe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South Florida
    My Bikes
    Techna Wheelchair and a Sun EZ 3 Recumbent Trike
    Posts
    16,014
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    4 Thread(s)
    This is why I love outboard rotors and hub assemblies.
    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2 View Post
    Well the axle nut could damage the bearing because, at least on this car, it preloads the inner races of the angular contact bearing. Preloading gives the bearing axial stability, but too much preload puts too much pressure on the individual bearings and accelerates wear.
    on light duty due to illness; please contact my assistants for forum issues. They are Siu Blue Wind, or CbadRider or the other 3 star folk. I am currently at home recovering from a couple of strokes. I am making good progress, happily.


    . “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche

    "We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant

  9. #9
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    6,266
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yea, this rotor setup is dumb, so much so that they can make rotor-over-hub conversion kits. The brake rotors on my car are mounted behind the hub. As it is now, I had to remove the entire steering knuckle and use a slide hammer to remove the press fit between the hub and bearing race.
    On the other hand, doing all this work forces me to inspect suspension parts. While I had the steering knuckles removed, I replaced both lower ball joints and could have replaced wheel bearings if they needed it.
    C://dos
    C://dos.run
    run.dos.run

  10. #10
    long time visiter Alfster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    SW Ontario
    My Bikes
    2005 Trek 6700 disc 2007 Orbea Onix 2009 Raleigh One Way
    Posts
    585
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2 View Post
    I'm completing the brake rotor swap on my '93 accord. I'm reading that the axle nut needs to be torqued to 134 ft/lbs. I have a torque wrench that goes to 150, but I bought it on eBay a few years ago and don't think it's accuracy is spot on. If the accuracy was off, say, +/- 10%, would there be any issue with the wheel bearing?
    Your torque wrench may have a tolerance of +/-10%, however unless you have a brand new nut being torqued against a smooth metal surface (ie - no scale, rust, pitting, etc), you will never know if you have torqued the bolt to 134 ft*lbs. That's why the structural steel industry has moved away from torque values and have gone with the turn-of-the-nut method, or they use bolt tensioners to pre-load the bolt. They found that the Coefficient of Friction varied too widely in older equipment to accurately torque / pre-tension the bolts.

    I realize the car industry probably still specs bolts with torque values, however keep in mind that they're referring to new equipment with a lower Coefficient of Friction. Having said that, in your case I wouldn't worry about the tolerance on the torque wrench. Instead I'd make sure the surfaces are cleaned up before installing the nut ... that includes the threads on the bolt btw. That way you can limit your tolerance of error to that of the torque wrench.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •