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  1. #1
    Look! My Spine! RubenX's Avatar
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    Skweeky Brakes - Driving Rube' insane!

    Or should I say "insanER"? Anyway, these pads are driving me crazy. It sounds like a wild animal that just received a mortal wound and it's about to die. Pedestrian 6 lanes away jump in the air when I stop at a red light. Is as bad as it can get.

    It started when I changed the pads some months ago... I kept saying to myself, it's because they are new, once they wear out they'll be normal. But that never happened. It's been a few months with 60 miles round trips to the office and it's sounding louder every day.

    I tried one of those "paints" that you spray on teh back of the pad. It reduced the sound by half, for a week or 2. Then it came right back.

    From the failed Anti-Skweeky experiment, it seems clear that the sound is being generated between the pad and the caliper. There's no shim, it rusted away years ago...

    Internet searches about the topic have left me more confused. IMHO I think I should just get a different brand of pad and try them out. After all, the ones I got were the cheapest of the cheapest, Valuecraft, at 12.99 the set.

    Any Pad recommendations?
    "Hoy es un dia normal, pero yo voy a hacerlo intenso" ~ Juanes

  2. #2
    Senior Member mikeybikes's Avatar
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    Kool Stop Salmon pads.

    I think you can retrofit those onto your Hyundai.
    My Bikes: 2009 Breezer Uptown EX | 1980 Miyata 610 | 1970 Hercules | 198? Miele ?
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  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Don't used WD40 to help stop the noise.

  4. #4
    K2ProFlex baby! ilikebikes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubenX View Post
    Or should I say "insanER"? Anyway, these pads are driving me crazy. It sounds like a wild animal that just received a mortal wound and it's about to die. Pedestrian 6 lanes away jump in the air when I stop at a red light. Is as bad as it can get.

    It started when I changed the pads some months ago... I kept saying to myself, it's because they are new, once they wear out they'll be normal. But that never happened. It's been a few months with 60 miles round trips to the office and it's sounding louder every day.

    I tried one of those "paints" that you spray on teh back of the pad. It reduced the sound by half, for a week or 2. Then it came right back.

    From the failed Anti-Skweeky experiment, it seems clear that the sound is being generated between the pad and the caliper. There's no shim, it rusted away years ago...

    Internet searches about the topic have left me more confused. IMHO I think I should just get a different brand of pad and try them out. After all, the ones I got were the cheapest of the cheapest, Valuecraft, at 12.99 the set.

    Any Pad recommendations?


    Why ask a question when you already know the answer?
    You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve

  5. #5
    Senior Member Zaneluke's Avatar
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    Better pads that come with the metal shim?

  6. #6
    derailleurs are overrated bigbenaugust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubenX View Post
    Or should I say "insanER"? Anyway, these pads are driving me crazy. It sounds like a wild animal that just received a mortal wound and it's about to die. Pedestrian 6 lanes away jump in the air when I stop at a red light. Is as bad as it can get.
    This is a safety feature built into your Hyundai, obviously.
    --Ben
    Carrboro Bike Coalition - putting the "bike" in "CARrboro" :)
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    Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014)
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  7. #7
    Hey guyz? Guyz? Wait up!! Siu Blue Wind's Avatar
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    Because this is RUBEN, did you even put the pads on?
    Quote Originally Posted by Buddha
    We are what we think. All that we are arises with our thoughts. With our thoughts, we make the world.
    Quote Originally Posted by making View Post
    Please dont outsmart the censor. That is a very expensive censor and every time one of you guys outsmart it it makes someone at the home office feel bad. We dont wanna do that. So dont cleverly disguise bad words.

  8. #8
    You Know!? For Kids! jsharr's Avatar
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    inivite siu over to stab your brakes.
    Are you a registered member? Why not? Click here to register. It's free and only takes 27 seconds! Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
    Quote Originally Posted by colorider View Post
    Phobias are for irrational fears. Fear of junk ripping badgers is perfectly rational. Those things are nasty.

  9. #9
    Hey guyz? Guyz? Wait up!! Siu Blue Wind's Avatar
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    OOo! My pleasure! I got a new knife yesterday!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Buddha
    We are what we think. All that we are arises with our thoughts. With our thoughts, we make the world.
    Quote Originally Posted by making View Post
    Please dont outsmart the censor. That is a very expensive censor and every time one of you guys outsmart it it makes someone at the home office feel bad. We dont wanna do that. So dont cleverly disguise bad words.

  10. #10
    derailleurs are overrated bigbenaugust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post
    OOo! My pleasure! I got a new knife yesterday!!
    *facepalm*

    *waits patiently for next post-stab-wound thread*
    --Ben
    Carrboro Bike Coalition - putting the "bike" in "CARrboro" :)
    2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX
    Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014)
    Current Linux Usage (by machine): Arch: I openSUSE: III

  11. #11
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    Heh. Those shims are there for a reason. I have helped so many people with brake jobs and they think those shims, retainer clips, and tentioners are just "extra parts."

    Did you clean the area with brake cleaner?

    Did you put the greasy goup on the back of the pads?

    Are you sure you didn't leave a body part in there somewhere?

  12. #12
    Look! My Spine! RubenX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilikebikes View Post
    Why ask a question when you already know the answer?


    Quote Originally Posted by Zaneluke View Post
    Better pads that come with the metal shim?
    I'm hoping ... I got the feeling that will be the key

    Quote Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post
    Because this is RUBEN, did you even put the pads on?
    Yes... I'm sure, they are there.

    Quote Originally Posted by SonataInFSharp View Post
    Heh. Those shims are there for a reason. I have helped so many people with brake jobs and they think those shims, retainer clips, and tentioners are just "extra parts."

    Did you clean the area with brake cleaner?

    Did you put the greasy goup on the back of the pads?

    Are you sure you didn't leave a body part in there somewhere?
    Break Cleaner, yes, it was used generously.

    I don't know what's the greasy goup.

    No body parts were left there... I've disassemble/re-assemble the whole thing quite a few times after the brake job, to change the strut, again to change the lower ball joint, again for the upper ball joint... By now I should be able to change the pads in like 15 minutes flat, with eyes closed.
    "Hoy es un dia normal, pero yo voy a hacerlo intenso" ~ Juanes

  13. #13
    K2ProFlex baby! ilikebikes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubenX View Post




    I'm hoping ... I got the feeling that will be the key



    Yes... I'm sure, they are there.



    Break Cleaner, yes, it was used generously.

    I don't know what's the greasy goup.

    No body parts were left there... I've disassemble/re-assemble the whole thing quite a few times after the brake job, to change the strut, again to change the lower ball joint, again for the upper ball joint... By now I should be able to change the pads in like 15 minutes flat, with eyes closed.
    That time does not include shim installation.
    You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve

  14. #14
    Look! My Spine! RubenX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilikebikes View Post
    That time does not include shim installation.
    Now I'm getting this crazy idea of visiting a local machine shop and making my own shims with a plasma cutter...
    "Hoy es un dia normal, pero yo voy a hacerlo intenso" ~ Juanes

  15. #15
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    I take it this is a single-piston one-sided caliper that slides on a pin for centering? Here's what you do:

    1. go down to your local autp-parts dealer and pick up a package of "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube Synthetic Brake Lubricant".

    2. take your brakes apart and grease all the sliding pins with this stuff

    3. take your new pads and grind a 45-degree bevel on the leading edge (leading relative to the rotor-rotation, not car's direction of travel)

    4. install anti-squeak shims with some of the special grease between the shims and pads AND between the shims and caliper piston

    5. re-install brakes

    6. take for test-drive


    BTW - did you resurface rotors?

  16. #16
    Look! My Spine! RubenX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
    I take it this is a single-piston one-sided caliper that slides on a pin for centering? Here's what you do:

    1. go down to your local autp-parts dealer and pick up a package of "Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube Synthetic Brake Lubricant".

    2. take your brakes apart and grease all the sliding pins with this stuff

    3. take your new pads and grind a 45-degree bevel on the leading edge (leading relative to the rotor-rotation, not car's direction of travel)

    4. install anti-squeak shims with some of the special grease between the shims and pads AND between the shims and caliper piston

    5. re-install brakes

    6. take for test-drive


    BTW - did you resurface rotors?
    Will do...

    Rotors are new. I installed them same day I installed the new pads.
    "Hoy es un dia normal, pero yo voy a hacerlo intenso" ~ Juanes

  17. #17
    K2ProFlex baby! ilikebikes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubenX View Post
    Will do...

    Rotors are new. I installed them same day I installed the new pads.
    did you remove/clean the protective film/coating off of the rotor surface?
    You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve

  18. #18
    Look! My Spine! RubenX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilikebikes View Post
    did you remove/clean the protective film/coating off of the rotor surface?
    Yup... did that...

    I went to the shop to get the shims but they had no shims by themselves for my car. Tried 3 different shops, no shims. They only carried some cheapo generic shim pads that are like 5x9, rectangular, and you are supposed to cut into shape. Rube no likey... so I got a set of new pads that came with the shims... ceramic pads, "wearever" brand.

    The shims seem very good, metal shims sandwiched by rubber. They came glued to the pads so I used those instead. Cleaned all parts, changed the pads, put the grease thingy as suggested and took it for a test drive. I did various stops at different speeds and different intensities and so far, NO SQWEEKY! \o/ yay!

    However, it is not stopping as hard as it was with the semi-metallic pads. Still plenty of stopping power, but just not as strong.

    And I did noticed something else too... when I press on the pedal, it goes to where it starts stopping and gets gets hard (sorry, don't know how else to say it), but as you keep pressing on it, the pedal keeps going down, slowly. I verified all lines, there is no brake fluid leak whatsoever, and the canister thingy is full to specification. Just feels kinda weird that if you press the pedal down, it will keep going down slowly after getting hard.
    "Hoy es un dia normal, pero yo voy a hacerlo intenso" ~ Juanes

  19. #19
    Senior Member mikeybikes's Avatar
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    Bleed the brake lines. There be air in them. Might be a good idea to flush the all the fluid.
    My Bikes: 2009 Breezer Uptown EX | 1980 Miyata 610 | 1970 Hercules | 198? Miele ?
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  20. #20
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubenX View Post
    However, it is not stopping as hard as it was with the semi-metallic pads. Still plenty of stopping power, but just not as strong.

    And I did noticed something else too... when I press on the pedal, it goes to where it starts stopping and gets gets hard (sorry, don't know how else to say it), but as you keep pressing on it, the pedal keeps going down, slowly. I verified all lines, there is no brake fluid leak whatsoever, and the canister thingy is full to specification. Just feels kinda weird that if you press the pedal down, it will keep going down slowly after getting hard.
    Yeah, semi-metallic pads are harder and generates more friction (eats through rotors faster too), so you'll typically have better "bite" out of them. That's fine, you just have to press slightly harder with other pads.

    As for the pedal sinking, sounds like master-cylinder needs replacement/rebuilding. Might as well try bleeding the fluid. I like to install Speed Bleeders on all my brakes. Makes bleeding them quick and effortless!

  21. #21
    derailleurs are overrated bigbenaugust's Avatar
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    I had the master cylinder crack on my 89 civic (RIP) once upon a time. Braking was... hairy until I got it fixed, to say the least.
    --Ben
    Carrboro Bike Coalition - putting the "bike" in "CARrboro" :)
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    Current Linux Usage (by machine): Arch: I openSUSE: III

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