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Old 06-27-11, 06:40 AM   #1
EJ123
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How much will these repairs to my car cost?

I plan to take my 04 Jetta in to get some work done one it. It hasn't been worked on since June 2009, and is 800 miles away from needing an oil change. This is what I plan to do at the Volkswagon dealership. Oh and also, the car has not been inspected since 2009, since I have Texas plates in Virginia, where my car has been since.

Alignment (veers slight right)
Oil Change
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down)
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone)
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?]
[Any other recommendations?]

In the fall I will probably be driving 70 miles a week on Fridays to shadow a doctor, so the car's gotta be in good shape. Hopefully with an 800$-1000$ budget will cover everything.
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Old 06-27-11, 06:45 AM   #2
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more then you think
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Old 06-27-11, 06:49 AM   #3
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tank u for that helpful n grammatically corr3ct respawnse┐
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Old 06-27-11, 06:50 AM   #4
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tank u for that helpful n grammatically corr3ct respawnse┐
use bees welcomes.
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Old 06-27-11, 06:57 AM   #5
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1200 buckaroos?
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Old 06-27-11, 07:00 AM   #6
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Two things...

Independent VW Shop > Dealer
Mark IV's are among the worst VWs ever.
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Old 06-27-11, 07:01 AM   #7
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Your check engine light is a big unknown. Heck, even with brake pads you could end up needing extra work.
We may as well ask a psychic.
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Old 06-27-11, 10:22 AM   #8
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If you were still in D/FW I'd direct you to the shop we use for our 01 Beetle.

I agree with StupidlyBrave - find an independent shop. The one I use in Dallas does faster work than the dealer at half the cost.
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Old 06-27-11, 10:58 AM   #9
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I apologize if I have said anything useful. I'll just try to stick to nonsense next time
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Old 06-27-11, 04:38 PM   #10
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If it's any help, the check engine light - if your car is actually running ok - could just be a bad sensor OR an indication that your gas cap was not closed properly & it might take a few hundred miles to re-set itself... anyway, if you can find a Vo-Tech center near you that's open this time of year you can probably get the oil change, the alighment, the brakes & the rest of your car's liquids checked for the cost of materials plus a small shop fee.

I use a Vo-Tech center for regular maintenance stuff - in WV the shop fee is $15/hr, and the parts & supplies (oil, coolant, filters, etc.) are discounted for the school, so I probably pay about 20% less than buying them myself. Dealerships generally charge at least $45/hour - probably more in VA. It would prbably be a good idea to check your engine's coolant, brake fluid, etc. yourself periodically - read your owner's manual for when you should perform other preventative maintenance - your car will last longer.
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Old 06-27-11, 05:24 PM   #11
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Alignment (veers slight right) $100 plus 4 new tires $600
Oil Change $80
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down) $150 plus 4 new rotors $400
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone) $50 plus new coolant $150
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?] $80
[Any other recommendations?] trade it in
Can you bike 70 miles on Fridays?
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Old 06-27-11, 05:40 PM   #12
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Sad when a proud company moved prodution to Mexico years back.
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Old 06-27-11, 05:43 PM   #13
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If it's any help, the check engine light - if your car is actually running ok - could just be a bad sensor OR an indication that your gas cap was not closed properly & it might take a few hundred miles to re-set itself... anyway, if you can find a Vo-Tech center near you that's open this time of year you can probably get the oil change, the alighment, the brakes & the rest of your car's liquids checked for the cost of materials plus a small shop fee.

I use a Vo-Tech center for regular maintenance stuff - in WV the shop fee is $15/hr, and the parts & supplies (oil, coolant, filters, etc.) are discounted for the school, so I probably pay about 20% less than buying them myself. Dealerships generally charge at least $45/hour - probably more in VA. It would prbably be a good idea to check your engine's coolant, brake fluid, etc. yourself periodically - read your owner's manual for when you should perform other preventative maintenance - your car will last longer.
This guys car will come back with a huge pickle muffle,sub woofers where the back seat was and blue neon lights under the frame.
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Old 06-27-11, 05:44 PM   #14
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Can you bike 70 miles on Fridays?
Maybe a made in Mexico Ford Fusion would get him to the clinic?
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Old 06-27-11, 07:03 PM   #15
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$1000 will just get you in the door.
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Old 06-27-11, 11:12 PM   #16
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Sad when a proud company moved prodution to Mexico years back.
Like 60 years back.
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Old 06-28-11, 07:58 AM   #17
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Does the A/C work? If yes, don't wory about it. A/C check is a rip-off.

$150 per axle ( front or rear) for brakes is pretty normal and includes machining the rotors. Good quality pads run around $50, $20 for machining, dealer labor can be around $65/hr and don't forget tax. Even with badly worn pads the pedal shouldn't go any nearer to the floor - the level in the master cylinder will go down as the caliper piston extends because of the pads getting thinner. If the pedal is spongy or depresses too far you may have a worn master cylinder or have air in the lines.


Check your tire pressure - maybe you don't need an alignment.

If the engine isn't not overheating don't worry about the code - check your coolant level and have that code reset.
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Old 06-28-11, 10:31 AM   #18
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What you've described is fairly basic maintenance, and you don't need to go to a dealer unless you like getting fiscally pounded. Six years ago in Connecticut my parents were stranded in their '99 Jetta (go figure) and the dealer had an hourly rate of $89. Oil changes can be done almost anywhere, and any shop with a hint of legitimacy can replace your brakes for you. Replacing brake rotors and pads is a really simple job unless you have captive rotors, which I don't believe yours does. My mechanic is in some NAPA auto network where his work and parts come with a 10,000 mile warranty.

Check engine lights on Jetta's are ornamental -- they're meant to stay on. The rest of the stuff is also something that any reputable independent shop should be able to fix with relative ease. Just look that they hire ASE certified mechanics, and inquire about any warranty they have.
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Old 06-28-11, 11:02 AM   #19
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This guys car will come back with a huge pickle muffle,sub woofers where the back seat was and blue neon lights under the frame.
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Old 06-28-11, 11:59 AM   #20
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Alignment (veers slight right)- $150.00
Oil Change - $40,00
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down) pads plus rotors need to be turned at a minimum. $400.00-$800.00
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone)Cooling System Performance. Possible causes include (but are not limited to) a bad coolant temperature sensor (CTS), stuck thermostat, bad waterpump, bad electrical connector somewhere between the CTS & the ECU (car's "brain"), or a failed cooling fan. Most likely the problem is the coolant temperature sensor, 75-700.00
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?]skip this you will not have $$ left
[Any other recommendations?]

In the fall I will probably be driving 70 miles a week on Fridays to shadow a doctor, so the car's gotta be in good shape. Hopefully with an 800$-1000$ budget will cover everything.
My guess.
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Old 06-28-11, 12:37 PM   #21
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This guys car will come back with a huge pickle muffle,sub woofers where the back seat was and blue neon lights under the frame.
My boss at the time and I were eating lunch at Schlotzky's when I heard booming bass. Looked up to see a lowered and tinted VW Jetta with lots of stickers and stuff in what I think was Japanese. I think the theme of the car was "Countries whose asses were kicked in WWII."
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Old 06-28-11, 12:39 PM   #22
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I plan to take my 04 Jetta in to get some work done one it. It hasn't been worked on since June 2009, and is 800 miles away from needing an oil change. This is what I plan to do at the Volkswagon dealership. Oh and also, the car has not been inspected since 2009, since I have Texas plates in Virginia, where my car has been since.

Alignment (veers slight right)
Oil Change
4 new brake pads (getting squeaky, and I have to push far down for the car to slow down)
Get my check engine line looked at (Code read: "System Cooling Engine Performance" @ autozone)
[Maybe check @ a/c cooling levels?]
[Any other recommendations?]

In the fall I will probably be driving 70 miles a week on Fridays to shadow a doctor, so the car's gotta be in good shape. Hopefully with an 800$-1000$ budget will cover everything.
Can you do anything yourself?
Rotor and pad change is easy on the VW's. About 200 bucks using after market parts. If the rears are drums, you won't need to touch them.

Alignment about 150. Have a pro do it. If tires are required, go to a used tire dealer. 100 bucks for all 4 balanced and installed.

I see ads all the time for 19 dollar oil changes at Meineke. My daughter uses them and it actually cost 19 bucks.

The check engine is a little more problematic. I would drain the fluid, use a flush kit, fill the coolant with new and have the light reset. If it comes back on but runs well, ignore it for now (you are probably already doing that) If it stays out, bonus.

Oh, if you take it to a shop, don't go to a dealer, go to a small reputable shop and tell him you are on a really tight budget. There are shops around that use 2nd hand parts from wreckers to keep repair costs down.

Last edited by jdon; 06-28-11 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 06-28-11, 12:54 PM   #23
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C
I see ads all the time for 19 dollar oil changes at Meineke. My daughter uses them and it actually cost 19 bucks.
I wouldn't do that to any car I wanted to keep. http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm. Unless I knew for certain that the oil they're adding meets the manufacturer's specs. IMHO, the Meineke route is sure death for a 1.8T, for example.

I have a pair of 12v vr6's and they never see anything but 5w-40 full synthetic. If I had a 1.8T, or any BMW/Audi engine it would never see anything but 0w-40 Mobile One (European spec). The local Honda dealer got his ass chewed out by yours truly when they put a synthetic blend in my wife's 2008 Accord - and Honda engines are reputed to be very tolerant of the garbage people put int them.

Then again, it would seem that the OP hasn't had an oil change in two years. That's worse than putting garbage oil in...
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Old 06-28-11, 01:22 PM   #24
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I wouldn't do that to any car I wanted to keep. http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm. Unless I knew for certain that the oil they're adding meets the manufacturer's specs. IMHO, the Meineke route is sure death for a 1.8T, for example.

I have a pair of 12v vr6's and they never see anything but 5w-40 full synthetic. If I had a 1.8T, or any BMW/Audi engine it would never see anything but 0w-40 Mobile One (European spec). The local Honda dealer got his ass chewed out by yours truly when they put a synthetic blend in my wife's 2008 Accord - and Honda engines are reputed to be very tolerant of the garbage people put int them.

Then again, it would seem that the OP hasn't had an oil change in two years. That's worse than putting garbage oil in...
To some degree, I agree but you are imposing your maintenance standards on the OP. His/her standards sound quite different, like those of a starving student.

I couls easily have the work required run to the 4000 dollar mark but that wasn't the point.
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Old 06-28-11, 01:35 PM   #25
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To some degree, I agree but you are imposing your maintenance standards on the OP. His/her standards sound quite different, like those of a starving student.

I couls easily have the work required run to the 4000 dollar mark but that wasn't the point.
So were you.

I would argue that it's cheaper to properly maintain it than not.
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