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  1. #1
    Senior Member no motor?'s Avatar
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    Mounting a handrail to a tile wall.

    What's a good way to attach a handrail to a wall consisting of tile on drywall? Assuming we want it to stay in place and don't need to worry about any 220 volt electrical requirements, what's the foo brain trust recommend?

  2. #2
    Papaya King waynesworld's Avatar
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    How is this not a Ruben thread?

    Sorry, I have no idea how to do that.
    Quote Originally Posted by rumrunn6 View Post
    walk right in and punch the first guy you meet in the head
    2011 BMC SR02, 2010 Kona Jake, 2009 Felt X City D, 1984 (?) Trek 400, 1995 Trek 850

  3. #3
    Curmudgeon in Training 20grit's Avatar
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    Wet location?
    Are we talking bathroom type handrail (aka grab bar) or traffic use?

    Generally... locate studs/furring and drill it. If it's a wet location, you could seal the penetrations. Then just screw everything in?

  4. #4
    on by skijor's Avatar
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    Ruben would first mount the wall to the handrail. Sorry, thought this was the "What would Ruben do (WWRD™)?" thread.

  5. #5
    Administrator CbadRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddles View Post
    So Tom only hires people that are nutty? Is part of the requirement to be a moderator on this site is that you have to be nuts??
    Forum Guidelines *click here*

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20grit View Post
    Wet location?
    Are we talking bathroom type handrail (aka grab bar) or traffic use?

    Generally... locate studs/furring and drill it. If it's a wet location, you could seal the penetrations. Then just screw everything in?
    What he said. At least two inch screws.
    "Why is it that one careless match can start a forest fire, but it takes a whole box to start a barbecue?" Anonymous

  7. #7
    Senior Member no motor?'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynesworld View Post
    How is this not a Ruben thread?

    Sorry, I have no idea how to do that.
    I'm hoping to avoid that.

    Quote Originally Posted by 20grit View Post
    Wet location?
    Are we talking bathroom type handrail (aka grab bar) or traffic use?

    Generally... locate studs/furring and drill it. If it's a wet location, you could seal the penetrations. Then just screw everything in?
    It's an office bathroom, and we're hoping to avoid any wacka wacka puffa puffa for anyone that needs it.
    Thanks cbad for the video, that should be what we need to do. And I know who to ask if we want to install a flat screen tv with cable and internet connections in there.

  8. #8
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    If the studs aren't quite where you need them, install a nice looking back board to the wall using the studs then secure the handrail to the board.

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    You guys are all in left field.

    Drill a 1/2" hole with a Milwaukee Hole Hog,put 3/8" bolt through wall(aprox.5") to other room,finish with 3/8"washer and nut.

    You're welcome.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  10. #10
    Senior Member mikeybikes's Avatar
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    You're supposed to built the room around the handrail.
    My Bikes: 2010 Breezer Uptown EX | 1980 Miyata 610 | 1970 Hercules | 198? Miele ?
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    My Blog, a mix of bicycling, tech, and family.

  11. #11
    Curmudgeon in Training 20grit's Avatar
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    Well, don't forget to just go ahead and try to meet some semblance of ADA standard with the rails. If you want, send me a PM and I'll try to scan you the ADAAG handbook section relating to it next week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spry View Post
    You guys are all in left field.

    Drill a 1/2" hole with a Milwaukee Hole Hog,put 3/8" bolt through wall(aprox.5") to other room,finish with 3/8"washer and nut.

    You're welcome.
    A stealth instillation... eh?
    "Why is it that one careless match can start a forest fire, but it takes a whole box to start a barbecue?" Anonymous

  13. #13
    phony collective progress x136's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20grit View Post
    [...] drill it.
    That's what sh--
    Quote Originally Posted by 20grit View Post
    If it's a wet location,
    That's what she s--
    Quote Originally Posted by 20grit View Post
    you could seal the penetrations.
    That's wh--
    Quote Originally Posted by 20grit View Post
    Then just screw everything in?
    OH I GIVE UP.

  14. #14
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    JB Weld

  15. #15
    on by skijor's Avatar
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    Drill it. Bop it. Twist it. Then ride it.

  16. #16
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    The wall in the video isn't tile. If your wall is tile you will need to break through the glaze on the tile with a hammer and center punch. Remember you're just trying to punch a nick in the glaze to give the drill something to bite into. A carbide masonry bit will get you through the tile after the glaze is chipped. Drill the tile with a 1/4" bit. Then use the appropriate drill bit for he supplies screws.
    Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're probably right

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Danw View Post
    The wall in the video isn't tile. If your wall is tile you will need to break through the glaze on the tile with a hammer and center punch. Remember you're just trying to punch a nick in the glaze to give the drill something to bite into. A carbide masonry bit will get you through the tile after the glaze is chipped. Drill the tile with a 1/4" bit. Then use the appropriate drill bit for he supplies screws.
    Not to worry pilgrim.
    If no motor uses the "hole hog"he'll go through that tile wall like pee through a screen.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  18. #18
    Curmudgeon in Training 20grit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Danw View Post
    The wall in the video isn't tile. If your wall is tile you will need to break through the glaze on the tile with a hammer and center punch. Remember you're just trying to punch a nick in the glaze to give the drill something to bite into. A carbide masonry bit will get you through the tile after the glaze is chipped. Drill the tile with a 1/4" bit. Then use the appropriate drill bit for he supplies screws.
    3 seconds with a countersink bit and your worries about tile glaze are over. After that the only worries that arise are those about how one could possibly prepare this delicious bass I caught for the OP.

  19. #19
    Senior Member no motor?'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spry View Post
    You guys are all in left field.

    Drill a 1/2" hole with a Milwaukee Hole Hog,put 3/8" bolt through wall(aprox.5") to other room,finish with 3/8"washer and nut.

    You're welcome.
    Now I know where Ruben gets his advice!

  20. #20
    Senior Member no motor?'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by merlin55 View Post
    JB Weld
    That's the closest answer to duct tape. Why hasn't anyone mentioned that yet?
    [

  21. #21
    phony collective progress x136's Avatar
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    This is more a situation for epoxy, really.

  22. #22
    Curmudgeon in Training 20grit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x136 View Post
    This is more a situation for epoxy, really.
    No, it's not. Handrails are required to be able to withstand a 250 lb force in any direction. The chances of the epoxy being applied properly giving it that kind of strength are slim.

  23. #23
    phony collective progress x136's Avatar
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    It was meant as a reply to the duct tape comment, not a realistic one.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by no motor? View Post
    Now I know where Ruben gets his advice!
    yup
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  25. #25
    Look! My Spine! RubenX's Avatar
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    You guys are doin' it rrrong!

    U need a high powered Elk Hunting *****... Fill it up with target punching ammo and shoot at the desired location. Then screw in a big nut-headed Tapcon using a beefy manly drill. And remember, if your drill if weak, get a new one!
    "Hoy es un dia normal, pero yo voy a hacerlo intenso" ~ Juanes

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