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Old 04-18-13, 07:24 AM   #1
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Fruit trees

Anyone who knows plants may be able to help me.
What fruit trees are self fertile?
I want to pick up a couple dwarf or semi dwarf trees and start a couple of espaliers. Would like to have 2 different kinds of fruit rather than have 2 of the same fruit.
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Old 04-18-13, 07:35 AM   #2
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You can find self fertile verities of most anything.
Isons nursery is a good one, btw. Tyty is not.
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Old 04-18-13, 07:48 AM   #3
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I'm not very patient...HD is about 2 miles from here. I need to pick up a few things at lunch.
Maybe the tags will say wether or not the plants are self fertile. Or I could go to the Hardware store on Scott Blvd.....they some times know what they are talking about.
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Old 04-18-13, 08:00 AM   #4
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You need to contact your local Ag Extension service and match trees to your area. Not only do you have to consider, if they are self fertile or require a pollinator, most fruit also have to have a certain number of yours of quiesence or chilling in order for their buds to break. Tell me what fruits you want to grow and your city and I will do my best to help you. But what I know about Texas, and the DFW area in particular vs where you live is going to matter. Local knowledge is good. Also, learn how to prune. A good producing fruit tree, properly pruned into a bowl shape is not as pretty as one trained to be round, but it will produce more fruit. It has to do with where you prune. Basically you prune to an outside bud, but there is more to it than that.
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Old 04-18-13, 08:05 AM   #5
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You need to contact your local Ag Extension service and match trees to your area. Not only do you have to consider, if they are self fertile or require a pollinator, most fruit also have to have a certain number of yours of quiesence or chilling in order for their buds to break. Tell me what fruits you want to grow and your city and I will do my best to help you. But what I know about Texas, and the DFW area in particular vs where you live is going to matter. Local knowledge is good. Also, learn how to prune. A good producing fruit tree, properly pruned into a bowl shape is not as pretty as one trained to be round, but it will produce more fruit. It has to do with where you prune. Basically you prune to an outside bud, but there is more to it than that.
Apples and nectarines or peaches would be my first choice.
As to the shape, I'm looking at either a candelabra or a simple 3 tier espalier.
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Old 04-18-13, 08:07 AM   #6
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Apples and nectarines or peaches would be my first choice.
As to the shape, I'm looking at either a candelabra or a simple 3 tier espalier.
My mom has about half a dozen apple trees growing on her place (not sure the variety), they produce a bumper crop every year.
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Old 04-18-13, 08:13 AM   #7
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http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/th...Nectarines.pdf


http://www.atlantalocalfood.org/File...FruitTrees.pdf

http://fruittreefarm.com/peaches.htm#p7LSMcnt_1_1

You need to know your hardiness zone and you need to know on average how many hours of chilling you get each year. One option is to choose two or three trees with different hours of chilling required, so that one has peaches in a mild winter or a hard long winter.
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Old 04-18-13, 08:13 AM   #8
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I'm not very patient...HD is about 2 miles from here. I need to pick up a few things at lunch.
Maybe the tags will say wether or not the plants are self fertile. Or I could go to the Hardware store on Scott Blvd.....they some times know what they are talking about.
HD is pretty good about matching their stock to the area. The hardware store on Scott has better informed employees than Home Despot though.

We are in zone 8
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Old 04-18-13, 08:16 AM   #9
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One final link http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/
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Old 04-18-13, 08:46 AM   #10
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Also, you should understand that even self fertile fruit varieties do not fruit as well or as heavily
when limited to their own pollen...........people who are interested in fruit will plant a pollinator
with them in order to insure their yields.

A lot of nurseries, (and I've seen them at HD) used to order in specially grafted apple whips that
have several varieties grafted onto one stock.........saves space while insuring pollination.


The other thing that comes to mind is that fruit trees are not recommended for guys who are impatient.
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Old 04-18-13, 08:52 AM   #11
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The nice part about growing fruit trees in an urban setting, even suburban, is that there are normally enough trees and pollinators in an area to insure decent pollination rates, but yes, space allowing, it is always best to plant a pollinator species that works well with your desired species or cultivar.
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Old 04-18-13, 10:36 AM   #12
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This thread has opportunities. I would plant a seed in your head, but it isn't politically correct.
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Old 04-18-13, 10:43 AM   #13
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How bout a gum tree?
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Old 04-18-13, 10:48 AM   #14
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The nice part about growing fruit trees in an urban setting, even suburban, is that there are normally enough trees and pollinators in an area to insure decent pollination rates, but yes, space allowing, it is always best to plant a pollinator species that works well with your desired species or cultivar.
I have some neighbors down the block, who, when they planted their one apple tree,
picked something they thought would work for pollination with my trees.

We like to refer to the whole block now as our Woodstock free love orchard.
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Old 04-18-13, 10:50 AM   #15
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HD had a dwarf Red Delicious apple tree with a couple limbs just right for making the first tier. Brought it home. Will be potting it this afternoon.
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Old 04-18-13, 10:51 AM   #16
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The nice part about growing fruit trees in an urban setting, even suburban, is that there are normally enough trees and pollinators in an area to insure decent pollination rates, but yes, space allowing, it is always best to plant a pollinator species that works well with your desired species or cultivar.

there are a couple of the more elaborate cultivated crab apples that are used
by a couple of the commercial guys I know, that seem to pollinate the hell out
of everything. Pollination has become more of a concern here in recent years.
There really are fewer honeybees, and it is quite obvious in the springtime here.

Luckily, there are some other bee species that pick up some of the slack.
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Old 04-18-13, 11:18 AM   #17
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HD had a dwarf Red Delicious apple tree with a couple limbs just right for making the first tier. Brought it home. Will be potting it this afternoon.
I hope you did not buy the RD for quality fruit. Hybridization killed that cultivar. Growers kept selecting trees with the prettiest, roundest, reddest fruit for bud/graft stock and did not even think about the taste or texture of the apple, and in the process, ruined the Red Delicious. It is now a beautiful apple with mealy, tasteless flesh. Sad. When I was at Texas A&M studying pome fruits, we were told that growers were getting Fed. help to replace their Red Delicious trees with something that people would buy.
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Old 04-18-13, 11:21 AM   #18
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there are a couple of the more elaborate cultivated crab apples that are used
by a couple of the commercial guys I know, that seem to pollinate the hell out
of everything. Pollination has become more of a concern here in recent years.
There really are fewer honeybees, and it is quite obvious in the springtime here.

Luckily, there are some other bee species that pick up some of the slack.
I have been out of the nursery trade since the 90s so my knowledge is dated. Bee decline was not an issue then and being in an area with LOTS of fruit trees, pollination was normally not an issue. I bought the house I grew up in and there is a pecan tree in the yard next door that I remember helping to plant when I was in school in the 80s. It was so small that we cut both ends out of a 5 lb coffee can an used that to keep it from getting run over by the lawn mower or eaten by squirrels. It is now a proud 30 year old fruit bearing tree.
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Old 04-18-13, 11:23 AM   #19
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I hope you did not buy the RD for quality fruit. Hybridization killed that cultivar. Growers kept selecting trees with the prettiest, roundest, reddest fruit for bud/graft stock and did not even think about the taste or texture of the apple, and in the process, ruined the Red Delicious. It is now a beautiful apple with mealy, tasteless flesh. Sad. When I was at Texas A&M studying pome fruits, we were told that growers were getting Fed. help to replace their Red Delicious trees with something that people would buy.
This is more or less for fun and to have a little fruit. I'd much prefer a Gala or Fuji, but beggars can't be choosers. And the fact that it's a dwarf really helps since I don't want this getting big.
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Old 04-18-13, 11:40 AM   #20
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Almost all Peaches are self Fertile.

Stella Cherries are self fertile.

Until recently Stella had the lowest chilling requirement of any available sweet cherry tree.

That raises another thing to be careful about. Chill hours. Not enough and no fruit.

One would hope that local merchants would not carry trees that would not fruit. But places like Lowes and Home depot are not nurseries and their people may not know better. even some nurseries stock what sells and far to often that is a known name, even if it is totally unsuitable.

But I have to be careful even at good places. There are foothills here and they get a few hundred more chill hours than the valley. So there are varieties that are good there and crap for me.

EDIT: Most Apricots are self fruitful. Most Plums are Self Fruitful (But plenty are not). Santa Rosa Plum is self Fruitful and a long time favorite.

This is one click away (but fruit type) for a LOT of fruit, it says which are self fruitful:

http://www.davewilson.com:8080/produ...ry/fruit-trees

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Old 04-18-13, 12:05 PM   #21
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This is more or less for fun and to have a little fruit. I'd much prefer a Gala or Fuji, but beggars can't be choosers. And the fact that it's a dwarf really helps since I don't want this getting big.
Dwarf and semi dwarf are somewhat confusing terms as the tree size is determined by the rootstock used to graft the tree onto. A non dwarf rootstock apple tree will grow to 18' - 30', a decent sized tree. Using a dwarfing rootstock will keep the tree down to about 12' of height, or in reality, about 1/2 to 2/3 the size of a standard. A semi dwarfing rootstock will yield a tree 14' - 16' in height. You are still going to end up with a decent sized tree in the end. Just saying. If you know the rootstock, let me know and I maybe able to tell you how big the tree is going to get. Not real important in your two tree, espalier situation, but it would matter if you were planting several trees and wanted good production.
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Old 04-18-13, 12:17 PM   #22
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Dwarf and semi dwarf are somewhat confusing terms as the tree size is determined by the rootstock used to graft the tree onto. A non dwarf rootstock apple tree will grow to 18' - 30', a decent sized tree. Using a dwarfing rootstock will keep the tree down to about 12' of height, or in reality, about 1/2 to 2/3 the size of a standard. A semi dwarfing rootstock will yield a tree 14' - 16' in height. You are still going to end up with a decent sized tree in the end. Just saying. If you know the rootstock, let me know and I maybe able to tell you how big the tree is going to get. Not real important in your two tree, espalier situation, but it would matter if you were planting several trees and wanted good production.
maybe someday I'll have an acre or two that I want to plant with fruit trees. At that point, I'll go with SD trees, just to make it easier to maintain. 30ft tall apple trees are pretty, but picking fruit at the top is a pain in the arse.
I'm going to keep this about 6ft or so tall. Each tier about 2ft from the other. I can't decide if I want to make it into a candelabra shape with 6 upright portions, or just keep it flat.
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Old 04-18-13, 09:23 PM   #23
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Flat fan.
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