Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 26
  1. #1
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Automobile paint protection options?

    Just purchased a brand new 2015 Forester Subaru. Driving a loaner Forester right now till mine comes in on Monday. I love that car!

    They tried selling me on all of the protection/ extended warranty options which I waived.

    The product they were pushing for paint protection was Xzilon. Doing a quick search, I see this stuff gets mixed reviews.

    Other than wax what are my other options for paint protection?

    I thought I saw someplace where you can get a film applied to your paint similar to the graphics applied to the car only clear. Has anyone seen this? Do you know the cost? Seems to me if you had it applied just to the hood. that would go a long way to protect the paint.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    forget all that stuff. It's just a waste of money.

    If you want to protect the front end, get clear 3M installed and just wash and wax regularly.
    I know the new car babying thing but once you get over that, just keeping it clean will pay the most dividends in long lasting paint.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    My Bikes
    2010 Surly LHT, 1999 Rocky Mountain Turbo
    Posts
    1,168
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I saw a new vw with clear film just the other day. It looked like crap. It was well applied but just not aesthetically pleasing. It was two thirds up the hood and fenders.

    Just wash and wax. Don't follow gravel trucks too close or anyone on a dirty gravel road.

    Congrats on the new car.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Chicagoland area
    My Bikes
    1995 Specialized design Full Force
    Posts
    80
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I agree, I think dealer paint and upholstery protection is a gimmick. And yea, the 3m stuff is hit or miss. It might be best hidden on a lighter paint color. Just the headlight film could save you some frustration without being noticeable. Nothing beats beats a well maintained wax and a good thorough detailing every once in awhile. I would think new cars come pretty well waxed from the dealer. One thing I'd like to get in the habit of doing is undercoating.

  5. #5
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by joeyduck View Post
    I saw a new vw with clear film just the other day. It looked like crap. It was well applied but just not aesthetically pleasing. It was two thirds up the hood and fenders.

    Just wash and wax. Don't follow gravel trucks too close or anyone on a dirty gravel road.

    Congrats on the new car.
    Thanks. Yeah that will probably be the way I go.

    I did promise myself that I would not get another new car but after looking at late model Foresters, the price difference is not hat all great. Plus I will benefit from the full 3 year warranty. And I won't be buying someone elses problems. I found a 2014 used with only 6K mikes. Just a little less than what I paid but I had to wonder why someone would trade in a vehicle with only 6K miles.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  6. #6
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BenzFanatic View Post
    I agree, I think dealer paint and upholstery protection is a gimmick. And yea, the 3m stuff is hit or miss. It might be best hidden on a lighter paint color. Just the headlight film could save you some frustration without being noticeable. Nothing beats beats a well maintained wax and a good thorough detailing every once in awhile. I would think new cars come pretty well waxed from the dealer. One thing I'd like to get in the habit of doing is undercoating.
    I went with silver. That is what I have (or had traded it in) and it really hide the dirt. Only thing the primer underneath was black so chips would show then you really looked at them.

    I did not get undercoating on my Toyota. I live in the north. We use lots of salt. After 15 years of the car being stored outside, I only had one spot maybe 1x3 that had some surface rust.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    My Bikes
    2010 Surly LHT, 1999 Rocky Mountain Turbo
    Posts
    1,168
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I like @BenzFanatic s idea about clear film on the lights. That would make a difference in ten years.

  8. #8
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by joeyduck View Post
    I like @BenzFanatic s idea about clear film on the lights. That would make a difference in ten years.

    Where do you go to get something like that done? Can you just do it yourself?
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  9. #9
    Fax Transport Specialist black_box's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    chicago burbs
    My Bikes
    '07 fuji cross pro, '10 gary fisher x-caliber
    Posts
    850
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    One coat of Klasse All-in-One (this is like a cleaner and mild polish that leaves a thin protective layer), followed by 1 or 2 coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze. If you have wax on the car, that needs to be removed first. The SG forms an acrylic surface and doesn't mix with wax. You can usually find the two products in a kit. A little bit goes a long way, so don't worry about the price.
    Last edited by black_box; 11-21-14 at 07:13 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Chicagoland area
    My Bikes
    1995 Specialized design Full Force
    Posts
    80
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spinnaker View Post
    I went with silver. That is what I have (or had traded it in) and it really hide the dirt. Only thing the primer underneath was black so chips would show then you really looked at them.

    I did not get undercoating on my Toyota. I live in the north. We use lots of salt. After 15 years of the car being stored outside, I only had one spot maybe 1x3 that had some surface rust.
    Either you got lucky or that car was just a great design. It's not something I'd pay to have done, but if you do any of your own work, it's relatively cheap insurance. My car has a factory bedliner like coating in certain places that has kept it looking good after 30 years.
    The headlight things you can do yourself and order probably directly from 3m sized for your car. It is of the utmost importance that your headlights are perfectly clean when applied. It shouldn't be very expensive to have the dealer do it if you're not confident. 30 minutes of labor tops, I'd think.

  11. #11
    BF Risk Manager
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Snohomish County, Washington USA
    My Bikes
    Road, mountain and folding
    Posts
    896
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I used to be in the Klasse camp, until I discovered Meguiar's M21 synthetic sealant: http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...alant-20-16oz/
    Regards, MillCreek
    Snohomish County, Washington USA

  12. #12
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BenzFanatic View Post
    Either you got lucky or that car was just a great design. It's not something I'd pay to have done, but if you do any of your own work, it's relatively cheap insurance. My car has a factory bedliner like coating in certain places that has kept it looking good after 30 years.
    The headlight things you can do yourself and order probably directly from 3m sized for your car. It is of the utmost importance that your headlights are perfectly clean when applied. It shouldn't be very expensive to have the dealer do it if you're not confident. 30 minutes of labor tops, I'd think.
    What areas did you cover with the bed liner materiel?

    Where do you get the head light film? Parts stores? What do you ask for? Head light liner?
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Chicagoland area
    My Bikes
    1995 Specialized design Full Force
    Posts
    80
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thinking about it, it's more of a rubberized coating. It's mostly just the areas around the wheels, where snow will stick, and rocker panels. Modern cars I guess that's probably mostly plastic.

    It looks like the most popular brand,x-pel, doesn't have a 2015 forester specific one out yet. I might get on the phone with 3m. There are probably kits at auto parts stores and online, just beware of crap. Buy something well reviewed. "Head light film" or "head light protection film" should get the point across wherever you may pursue it.

  14. #14
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    3,368
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Car Covers, ?

  15. #15
    aka Phil Jungels Wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    North Aurora, IL
    My Bikes
    08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
    Posts
    5,896
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    There is a waxtype coating called airo something, available from coast to coast, made for airplanes, that is just amazing stuff. Aint cheap, but it really works.

    rejex, I think, is the name.

    Make sure the surface is clean, or you will see it under the new wax.

    Here it is: http://www.rejex.com/

    The cheapest place I have ever found it is Coast to Coast Hardware Store - and if they don't have it, they order it from their own warehouse. Two coats of this stuff, 24 hours apart - will be the most slippery wax you have ever used, and shines like a new bike. Lasts a long time too!
    Last edited by Wanderer; 11-22-14 at 03:27 PM.

    "Retirement is the best job I ever had!" Me, 2009


    Specialized Crosstrail Sport - '08
    Nishiki Sport - misappropriated from my youngest son (circa 1984)
    Marin Stinson - misappropriated by my youngest grandson - '01
    "The Beast" - 1990 Schwinn Airdyne (in the basement for winter torture)

  16. #16
    on by skijor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    My Bikes
    Waterford RS-33, Salsa Vaya, Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT
    Posts
    880
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BenzFanatic View Post
    Just the headlight film could save you some frustration without being noticeable. Nothing beats beats a well maintained wax and a good thorough detailing every once in awhile. I would think new cars come pretty well waxed from the dealer.
    Toothpaste is supposedly good to clear up headlights. Never needed to try it myself since I regularly garage my vehicles.

  17. #17
    on by skijor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    My Bikes
    Waterford RS-33, Salsa Vaya, Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT
    Posts
    880
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Glad you started this thread. I have a 2014 Outback. Newer Subies have water-based paint. Shame on me, but I haven't waxed it yet. Don't know if the water-based factor matters when it comes to selecting a wax.

  18. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Richmond MI
    My Bikes
    88 schwinn tempo gary fisher mamba
    Posts
    100
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

  19. #19
    Fax Transport Specialist black_box's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    chicago burbs
    My Bikes
    '07 fuji cross pro, '10 gary fisher x-caliber
    Posts
    850
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by skijor View Post
    Glad you started this thread. I have a 2014 Outback. Newer Subies have water-based paint. Shame on me, but I haven't waxed it yet. Don't know if the water-based factor matters when it comes to selecting a wax.
    There should be a clear coat over the paint? unless new paint is fancier than that.

  20. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    My Bikes
    Bianchi Pista
    Posts
    27
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    if your still considering film to cover the front of your car. i would go with Xpel over the 3m clearbra. The Xpel has better self healing properties.. and atleast the older clearer stuff yellows after a few years. should cost anywhere from $500 to $1200 depending on what part of the country your in.

    Also check out opti-coat. It's like a second clear coat that they apply to your car which is much more durable then regular clear coat. i prefer that option over the films.. tho some people do both.

    personally, on a forester i wouldn't bother with either. unless you just can't stand rock chips on your personal car... when it comes to resale, a flawless front end isn't going to make much of a difference to someone looking for a forester.

  21. #21
    Senior Member trackhub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    In a state of 5th Dimension, where size has no meaning.
    My Bikes
    Gunnar Street Dog
    Posts
    1,950
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Dealers around here are trying to push Simonize glass coat. Of course, this is a gimmick to jack up the price at the point of sale.
    I use Meguiar's Next Gen. Tech Wax II.
    I typically wax twice per year. This wax is polymer based. It goes on easily, buffs up beautifully, and has most excellent "staying power", which is not
    easy to achieve in a New England winter.

    Alas, despite the best efforts, those little dings from parking lots and airborne pebbles are simply a fact of life. As other have noted, don't follow big
    scary trucks too closely, and in parking lots, be a subversive and park away from the crowd, as opposed to competing with soccer moms for a cherished
    "space near the door!!!"

    And.. Congrats on your new Sube.
    "The People will believe what the Media tells them they believe". George Orwell.

  22. #22
    Every day a winding road spinnaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    2005 Cannondale SR500, 2008 Trek 7.3 FX, Jamis Aurora
    Posts
    4,380
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by SGMongoose View Post
    if your still considering film to cover the front of your car. i would go with Xpel over the 3m clearbra. The Xpel has better self healing properties.. and atleast the older clearer stuff yellows after a few years. should cost anywhere from $500 to $1200 depending on what part of the country your in.

    Also check out opti-coat. It's like a second clear coat that they apply to your car which is much more durable then regular clear coat. i prefer that option over the films.. tho some people do both.

    personally, on a forester i wouldn't bother with either. unless you just can't stand rock chips on your personal car... when it comes to resale, a flawless front end isn't going to make much of a difference to someone looking for a forester.
    I was looking into the Xpel. If I can get it for under $1K for hood, mirrors and headlights I might go for it. My issue is just how to get it done. I do not have a garage. The local shop has a site that lists how you should care for the car after application. One of the items is do not drive for 12 hours after application. But I am going to have to drop it off at their place and can't leave it til the next day. I wonder how hey will handle that? I guess if I call they can answer those questions.

    I just saw how many chips my Toyota got over the years. Plus the paint on the mirrors was pretty much blasted away. It would be nice to protect that from happening on my new car.
    "The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are evil, but because of the people who don't do anything about it."

    Albert Einstein

  23. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    My Bikes
    Bianchi Pista
    Posts
    27
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spinnaker View Post
    I was looking into the Xpel. If I can get it for under $1K for hood, mirrors and headlights I might go for it. My issue is just how to get it done. I do not have a garage. The local shop has a site that lists how you should care for the car after application. One of the items is do not drive for 12 hours after application. But I am going to have to drop it off at their place and can't leave it til the next day. I wonder how hey will handle that? I guess if I call they can answer those questions.

    I just saw how many chips my Toyota got over the years. Plus the paint on the mirrors was pretty much blasted away. It would be nice to protect that from happening on my new car.
    You should definitely be able to get it done for less then $1000, especially on a new car. Most of the labor in the application process is the paint correction. New car paint is far from perfect, but it's still far better then on a car that has a few hundred miles on it. I would think an honest shop would have some wiggle room in the price... unless they are one of the shops that claim "well that is the new car price, it's extra for cars that've been driven"

  24. #24
    on by skijor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    My Bikes
    Waterford RS-33, Salsa Vaya, Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT
    Posts
    880
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by black_box View Post
    There should be a clear coat over the paint? unless new paint is fancier than that.
    Good point. Who knows what this crazy winter will throw at us? It may be 60F in February. May get waxing-friendly temps yet. I love snow, but at least I'm not in Buffalo.

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by black_box View Post
    There should be a clear coat over the paint? unless new paint is fancier than that.
    All new cars have clearcoat except some solid colors. Non-metallic black, red, white, etc typically are single stage with no clearcoat.

    water based has no effect on what you clean or protect the finish with

    Spending $1000+ on some finish protection is insane but that's why it's a multi million dollar industry...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •