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aluminum bike frame.

Old 08-09-15, 08:36 PM
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aluminum bike frame.

I ride 56 cm bike. I have one cannondale saeco aluminum frame. The dropouts is 135 mm. But that bike is too tall for me is 61cm from the center of the bottom bracket to the seatpost ring. The effective top tube is 60cm. Inot have buildthat frame but i put wheels handlebar and i weight groupset i have all bike and groupset is weight 20 pounds. Now that weight is without tires and innertubes and cables. I have other cannondale R300 complete bike is weight around 23 pounds. But the dropouts is 126mm. i have use the 135mm wheels i have ride 30 miles. the wheels for i make fit i have spread the dropouts some with my hands. That larger hub is can do damage in the dropouts?
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Old 08-09-15, 10:10 PM
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AL doesn't like to be bent more then once, each pedal stroke bends thing a tiny bit, but things will work for a while. How long is any one's guess. Andy
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Old 08-11-15, 07:37 PM
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Quite a few people put 130mm wheels in their 126mm Cannondales.
Most road wheels are 130mm, which is only 4mm to spread when installing a wheel.
Aren't 135 for mtn bikes and tandems ?
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Old 08-15-15, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
Quite a few people put 130mm wheels in their 126mm Cannondales.
Most road wheels are 130mm, which is only 4mm to spread when installing a wheel.
Aren't 135 for mtn bikes and tandems ?
this is a good way to increase rear hub friction, wear bearings out, break axles and dropouts. I think Cannondale's typically have plate dropouts so, they may be the strongest link which will cause more issues with the other parts. with Aluminum, just stay with 126 and re-space the rear hub and re=dish the wheel, use a Sachs 8sp freewheel. that's about as good as you'll easily get. I suppose with those thick dropouts, you might be able to mill 2mm out of each and get to 130. it's a thought but exceeds my experience and knowledge.
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Old 08-15-15, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by duanedr
this is a good way to increase rear hub friction, wear bearings out, break axles and dropouts.
The narrow dropouts should have nothing to do with hub friction and bearings. If it makes a difference, then your cones are adjusted too tight or the locknuts to loose.

If you have classic style hubs without end-caps, then one can often set them to any width you desire by removing spacers and trimming the axle. I've cut 135mm axles down for use on my 126mm spaced Colnago.

Personally I prefer everything to fit. 2mm per side isn't much, considering. But, it is still nice for the wheels to slide in.

8s, 9s, and 10s all have very similar spacing. What works for one should work for all 3 (more or less).

On the Colnago, I have a 9s hub/cassette spaced for 126mm, and use an off-center (asymmetric) rim to help with the dishing. So far, several thousand miles and it works like a dream. Rear end spacing is very tight.
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Old 08-16-15, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
If you have classic style hubs without end-caps, then one can often set them to any width you desire by removing spacers and trimming the axle. I've cut 135mm axles down for use on my 126mm spaced Colnago.
This is different from what I thought OP was talking about. I was assuming they were trying to put 130mm OLN hub inside a 126mm spaced aluminum frame. What happens when the dropouts are spread by 4mm, is the chainstays flex across their length - from the CS brace/BB to the dropouts - which puts the dropouts out of parallel. This in turns flexes the axles and causes the problems I mentioned initially. Not because of poor hub adjustment but because when you clamp down the skewer, you force a fair bit of mis-alignment through the system (CS, DO, axles, skewers etc.). That stress will eventually manifest itself in some way - maybe not for decades.
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