Lacking a proper oxy/acetylene setup to braze new dopouts onto a steel frame, I was wondering if it was possible to heat the metal using a TIG stinger , then fill the joints with brazing rod as I go?
Or at this point should I just TIG the things on?
How come even nicer TIGed frames still sometimes have their dropouts brazed on?
the tig torch focuses the heat in too small of an area to use it instead of o/a. then there's the flux part. I'd say just tig them on. if possible get some breezer style drop-outs, or the surly's for track. they're pretty easy to tig weld on.
traditional dropouts that slide into slots in the stays are made to be brazed. you add a bunch of filler then remove the excess until it looks nice. say you decided to tig weld them on. first, how are you going to do it? you could weld around where dropouts meet the stays but it's kinda ugly. if you decide to mimick brazing, meaning adding a lot of steel filler while you weld, then you have a lot of steel to remove which is harder to do than brass, and you would have been better off brazing them in the first place.
Ever changing..as of 2-24-09: 2003 Giant TCR Team Once, Sampson titanium, 1992 Paramount Series 3, 2003 Cervelo P3, 70s Raleigh Record fixed gear, 70s Fuji SL-12 commuter, mid 90s Klein MTB. Plus two or three frames lurking, plus 5 wife/kids rides
This reminds me of when I tried using my TIG torch to solder...
I was doing some wiring on the race car, and needed to put an end on a battery cable. My soldering iron wouldn't come close to heating the big welding cable I was using, my gas bottles for the torch were out, and the TIG was sitting there...
I actually managed to heat the terminal fairly well and flow the solder into it; it was hard to see as the very low current necessary to just heat the terminal didn't create enough arc light to see well through the helmet. I just struck the arc and blindly fed solder into the terminal until it started going downward. Needless to say, not recommended for fine quality work.