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  1. #1
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    Drilling and tapping my chainstay bridge for a fender?

    Is this "done"? Is it recommended? I want to mount fenders without zip ties or other cheesiness.

    Alternatively, does anyone know a *nice* way to mount a fender a little ways (~1cm) away from the chainstay bridge?

    Edit: Hey, I just thought of something: small diameter metal tubing + round file + (barf) ziptie. If this works it won't look half bad.

  2. #2
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    you can drill it, no problem- that's actually the only real practical use for a cs bridge. You could use one of those caliper spacers from a road bike rear- they have a concave side and a flat side- might look slick.

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    OK, I got tired of my ziptie and now I am going ahead with drilling and tapping. The thing is, the tubing is pretty thin, just a mm or two. Should I go ahead and tap it? I'm worried that as is it will be too weak to hold on over the long haul. That part of the fender takes a fair amount of head on abuse when I am pulling my wheel out to fix a flat---the dropouts are campy 1010 horizontal/forward facing.

    Will it be a travesty if I just drill all the way through and put a caliper spacer and a nut on the other side?

  4. #4
    Decrepit Member Scooper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mander
    OK, I got tired of my ziptie and now I am going ahead with drilling and tapping. The thing is, the tubing is pretty thin, just a mm or two. Should I go ahead and tap it? I'm worried that as is it will be too weak to hold on over the long haul. That part of the fender takes a fair amount of head on abuse when I am pulling my wheel out to fix a flat---the dropouts are campy 1010 horizontal/forward facing.

    Will it be a travesty if I just drill all the way through and put a caliper spacer and a nut on the other side?
    No.

    The chainstay bridge on my P15-9 Paramount (touring model with provisions for mounting fenders) has a factory drilled hole all the way through the chainstay bridge, and the fender is secured with an 8-32 machine screw, leather spacing washer between the bridge and the fender, and a washer, star lock washer, and nut. The tubing used for the chainstay bridge has a wall thickness of only ~1mm, and I wouldn't even consider just tapping it.
    - Stan

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    As I thought, thanks Scooper!

    Andrew

  6. #6
    Decrepit Member Scooper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mander
    As I thought, thanks Scooper!

    Andrew
    Here's a photo that might help. The reason the leather washer is so thick is because the bike was built for 27" wheels and I've got 700c wheels on it, so the space between the bridge and the fender is significantly more than with the original wheels.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Stan

  7. #7
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    I did it to a cannondale. Drilled all the way thru, used a small black rubber stopper in place of cork in picture above.

    On the c'dale the cs bridge was solid aluminum rod, not tubing.
    Last edited by seeker333; 06-14-07 at 01:32 AM.

  8. #8
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    Done! Like seeker333, i used a little rubber stopper as a spacer and I bet it'll put a stop to rattles too.. My fender setup is so much better than it used to be with that dumbassed ziptie.

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