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Framebuilders Thinking about a custom frame? Lugged vs Fillet Brazed. Different Frame materials? Newvex or Pacenti Lugs? why get a custom Road, Mountain, or Track Frame? Got a question about framebuilding? Lets discuss framebuilding at it's finest.

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Old 11-26-07, 01:58 AM   #1
ebbett
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Using Bondo

I'm planning on getting an old frame powdercoated. It has some pretty serious chainsuck (no rupture of the tube though) and a tiny little ding on the top tube. Would bondo be the best way to go for something like this? Would it hold-up to the baking process in a powdercoat? A tube replacement seems overkill.
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Old 11-26-07, 02:24 AM   #2
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No. The frame needs to be completely bare. It sucks I know. I have an aluminum frame with a pretty serious garage door dent on the top tube but after all was said and done it didn't come out to bad.
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Old 12-02-07, 11:42 AM   #3
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I could be completely wrong on this, but I've heard that this stuff called "Lab Metal" will work for powder coating.

Check it: http://www.lab-metal.com/

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 12-02-07, 07:45 PM   #4
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" Lab Metal" or" Pyro Putty" are the same thing and both do work for powder coating
I used Pyro Putty to make filets on a Shifter kart aluminum seat before powder coating. expensive stuff though. a pint can was $35 4 years ago

Another fabricator I know swears that Permatex muffler putty works just as well.
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Old 12-03-07, 04:14 PM   #5
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I'm going to proclaim my ignorance on the subject of powder coating, but if temperature is an issue, JB Weld (all purpose epoxy mix) can withstand temps up to 500F. Once hardened, you can sand it down flush.
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Old 12-03-07, 08:20 PM   #6
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The most permanent repair would be to fill the dents with silver and then file and sand it to shape.
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Old 12-07-07, 12:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiddSisko View Post
if temperature is an issue...
Temperature can be an issue (eg decals) but also the base material needs to have some metal content to hold the powder in place before and during baking since it is electrostatically charged.

Last edited by Iowegian; 12-07-07 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 12-07-07, 09:59 PM   #8
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Old body work used to be done with lead solder filler, low enough temp to not affect the metal structure. Easily workable. I would consider that. Propane torch, lead & flux for a good fill. (steel frame of course)

Would that work for powder coat?

Last edited by brucewiley; 12-07-07 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 12-08-07, 08:35 PM   #9
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The most permanent repair would be to fill the dents with silver and then file and sand it to shape.
What he said. Or silicon bronze instead of silver. That's the best most "correct" thing to do.

I'm assuming the frame is cro-mo?
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Old 12-09-07, 01:19 AM   #10
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FWIW, a couple of days ago I ended up with a dent in the frame I'm currently building. (So much for the experimental chainstay indenting system ) So I took my own advice and filled the dent with silver, and then filed it into shape. Took probably ten minutes, and the dent is not detectable with eyes or touch. I can't imagine bothering with anything else, Bondo included.
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