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Thread: Using Bondo

  1. #1
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    Using Bondo

    I'm planning on getting an old frame powdercoated. It has some pretty serious chainsuck (no rupture of the tube though) and a tiny little ding on the top tube. Would bondo be the best way to go for something like this? Would it hold-up to the baking process in a powdercoat? A tube replacement seems overkill.

  2. #2
    ( 8n(|) DOH!! Pwnt's Avatar
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    No. The frame needs to be completely bare. It sucks I know. I have an aluminum frame with a pretty serious garage door dent on the top tube but after all was said and done it didn't come out to bad.
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    16th president abraham lincoln's Avatar
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    I could be completely wrong on this, but I've heard that this stuff called "Lab Metal" will work for powder coating.

    Check it: http://www.lab-metal.com/

    Please correct me if I'm wrong.

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    Older I get, Better I was velonomad's Avatar
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    " Lab Metal" or" Pyro Putty" are the same thing and both do work for powder coating
    I used Pyro Putty to make filets on a Shifter kart aluminum seat before powder coating. expensive stuff though. a pint can was $35 4 years ago

    Another fabricator I know swears that Permatex muffler putty works just as well.

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    Has coddling tendencies. KiddSisko's Avatar
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    I'm going to proclaim my ignorance on the subject of powder coating, but if temperature is an issue, JB Weld (all purpose epoxy mix) can withstand temps up to 500F. Once hardened, you can sand it down flush.

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    The most permanent repair would be to fill the dents with silver and then file and sand it to shape.

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    Senior Member Iowegian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiddSisko View Post
    if temperature is an issue...
    Temperature can be an issue (eg decals) but also the base material needs to have some metal content to hold the powder in place before and during baking since it is electrostatically charged.
    Last edited by Iowegian; 12-06-07 at 11:28 PM.

  8. #8
    deep stuff brucewiley's Avatar
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    Old body work used to be done with lead solder filler, low enough temp to not affect the metal structure. Easily workable. I would consider that. Propane torch, lead & flux for a good fill. (steel frame of course)

    Would that work for powder coat?
    Last edited by brucewiley; 12-07-07 at 10:22 PM.

  9. #9
    Thirsty StabsAll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Six jours View Post
    The most permanent repair would be to fill the dents with silver and then file and sand it to shape.
    What he said. Or silicon bronze instead of silver. That's the best most "correct" thing to do.

    I'm assuming the frame is cro-mo?
    Remove the head or destroy the brain.

  10. #10
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    FWIW, a couple of days ago I ended up with a dent in the frame I'm currently building. (So much for the experimental chainstay indenting system ) So I took my own advice and filled the dent with silver, and then filed it into shape. Took probably ten minutes, and the dent is not detectable with eyes or touch. I can't imagine bothering with anything else, Bondo included.

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