Axle moving in dropout.
I just finished setting up an old steel mountain bike for touring and it came out great except on the first ride everytime I'd get out of the saddle and put a little power to it, the axle would move foward in the drive side horizontal dropout. The tire even started hitting on the chainstay and it moved no matter how tight the skewer.
I looked at the dropout carefully and the inside face was wallowed out some (concave) so I figured perhaps the axle nut wasn't seating well against it. I put some brass on the face and filed it smooth and flat thinking perhaps the brass would give it something to bite into. Tried it out and it still moves.
Next step was to merely center punch the dropout surface a bit to rough it up and that helped quite a bit but I'm worried that isn't a good permanent fix.
Any thoughts/ideas on fixing this? Perhaps inletting the dropout surface a bit to capture the axle?
Mountain bike hub, 9 cogs, derailleur hanger is sandwiched against the dropout by the skewer. Have to spring the rear open just slightly to install the wheel. All looks straight.
I'd be thinking about the quick release first. Are you sure it's doing its job?
Change to new QR. New ones are all knarly and ave tons of traction. I just bought non qr skewers. lighter than qr and you use a allen key to tighten and loosen. little more theft proof, lots cooler looking, and I think it feels way more secure.
Just a thought- make sure the dropouts are parallel to each other. Since you say it's an older frame, if you've coldset the rear triangle for wider dropout spacing, it's possible that messed up the dropout parallelism.
Thanks guys for the responses. I did change the QR today and it also looked to me like the Derailleur hanger is some fairly hard steel, not giving the QR nut a chance to dig in. I ground out the area of the hanger where the nut sits a small amount and filled it with brass, then filed off the excess. While I was at it I brazed up some nubs at the opening of the QR dropout that prevent the nut from sliding forward at all when it's tight. The sucker ain't goin nowhere now!
Last edited by brucewiley; 12-30-07 at 05:47 PM.
Some of the new style QRs from various botique wheel vendors do not have great clamping power. The traditional internally cammed ones from Shimano or Campy are the best.
I had the same experience. My lightweight Zipp Q/R with aluminum ends would not grip the steel dropouts. I switched to Shimano (Steel teeth on endcaps) and had no more problems. The lightweight skewers work fine on Aluminum dropouts but can't bite into hard steel dropouts nearly as well.
Zipp track hubs suffered from the same thing. Those @#$! things wouldn't grip adequately during full power standing starts. World championships have been lost on account of them...