Cool. Thank you for the replies.
The bottom bracket tools are calling out to me since most of the LBS's look at me like I am an alien when I ask them about chasing the bottom bracket threads, or rethreading a French BB to an Italian. I bought the pedal thread bushing taps and am pleased with the cranks I have saved. Hozan Spoke roller is likely the next tool purchase.
Which dropout alignment tools do you recommend? That may be a sensible purchase as well.
I think the tool purchases most likely to happen are the ones that can be used for more than just frame building.
I do a lot of automotive fabrication, so building the frame jig looks doable.
I will likely build a frame. I am intrigued with the idea. The stars and planets will just have to align, and I will start building. Or it will be a Tandem or recumbent build of some sort.
It has been so many years since I have ridden a proper steel road bike that I must do so that before I commit to building one. I am in the parts gathering phase of assembling one now.
Park FFG-2 is what I've got. Does the trick.
Originally Posted by ricklp
Is there anything on this bike that you're dissatisfied with?
Originally Posted by Cassave
To most of us here I think it looks perfect - but the builder's eye is often more critical (sometimes ridiculously so).
Great bike, and great thread! Still being red :)
My Self Built frame was decades before the Digital camera and the internet were invented ..
Borrowed tools and space.
So was my first. When Kodachrome was king........
Originally Posted by fietsbob
I am using neanderthal methods to make brackets for the racks I have built. I.E. when I need to fashion a bracket I am using the metal chop saw or angle grinder and cutting a small piece of chrome moly or stainless steel plate and grinding it on the grinder. I would like to find a more refined method of making pleasing shapes. I see you guys cutting cute little hearts and stuff out of lugs and I am amazed at the detail. A jewelers saw? A diamond blade in a coping saw? Mold maker's files, jeweler's files? What are the proper tools for this kind of work? Thanks in advance. BTW Cassave, the black flux did the trick for my silver solder and stainless projects. Could not get the turquoise Harris flux to make it flow right. Thanks
Attachment 427784Jeweler's saws are great for really fine detail sawing. Drill a through hole and feed the blade through then carefully start the saw in the right direction. Expect to break a lot of blades 9that's why they are packaged by the dozens) and remember to have at least 2 or 3 teeth contacting the part.
I make many of my own eyelets, cable stops and rack bosses from thick walled tubing. Here's a shot of a DT gear cable stop before it's brazing. The threaded section is from a canti boss. The jig is self made from scrap laying about. Andy.
i build up a lugged steel bike and have made a blog (my first) about that. I would be pleased, if you have a look and gave me feedback about my work. No matter whether here or at the blog.
Thanks in advance!
This is utterly stunning work. Incredibly documented. Really appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship. Just amazing.
This is Literally the most satisfying thing I've seen. You managed to put my life dream into this thread. You're work is amazing and I hope to be half as good as you when I learn how to make a bicycle. This is truly amazing. Thanks for your posts.
I have read back through this thread to try to get some insight on doing the fillet on the seat stays. The reason is that I am finally getting back to project I started years ago, and I guess you could say, I failed at. Since then I have practiced with some brazing and silver soldering projects and learned more about the importance of "prepping" the material, and the proper flux to use. I have disassembled the tubes from the lugs and starting over. I am apprehensive about the amount of heat around the seat cluster while creating the fillet on the seat stays. I am worried about affecting the joint of the top tube and the seat tube. Can you tell me what size tip you use and if you use something other than a neutral flame? I have seen heat sink materials to protect an area that will be heated adjacent to an area you are brazing. Do you use that stuff, or just a light touch with the torch? Thanks for sharing you knowledge,
don't worry about that, you will not re-melt the filler in the lugs when you do the seat stay joint
As unterhausen said, not to worry.
Brazing an uncapped seat stay to the seat lug doesn't need much heat buildup.
I tend to braze everything with a #2 tip and a slightly carburizing flame.
If you're doing shot-in stays, like the bike in this thread consider inverting the frame when you braze the seat cluster, upside down, the material flow works better that way.
I made a one piece wrap over cap I added once the seat stays were on.