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  1. #276
    Senior Member
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    Kawartha Lakes, Ontario, Canada
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    2007 KHS Flite Team, 2011 Felt TT Bike, 2010 Kona Jake, 1983 Le Croco with Dura Ace 7800, 1980 Custom Tandem with Tiagra triple 9 Speed, 2 1970's CCM monoshock suspension bikes, 1984 Norco 24" Unicycle
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    Cool. Thank you for the replies.

    The bottom bracket tools are calling out to me since most of the LBS's look at me like I am an alien when I ask them about chasing the bottom bracket threads, or rethreading a French BB to an Italian. I bought the pedal thread bushing taps and am pleased with the cranks I have saved. Hozan Spoke roller is likely the next tool purchase.

    Which dropout alignment tools do you recommend? That may be a sensible purchase as well.

    I think the tool purchases most likely to happen are the ones that can be used for more than just frame building.

    I do a lot of automotive fabrication, so building the frame jig looks doable.

    I will likely build a frame. I am intrigued with the idea. The stars and planets will just have to align, and I will start building. Or it will be a Tandem or recumbent build of some sort.

    It has been so many years since I have ridden a proper steel road bike that I must do so that before I commit to building one. I am in the parts gathering phase of assembling one now.
    Last edited by ricklp; 02-11-14 at 04:56 PM.

  2. #277
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricklp View Post
    Which dropout alignment tools do you recommend? That may be a sensible purchase as well.
    Park FFG-2 is what I've got. Does the trick.

  3. #278
    Senior Member Syscrush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cassave View Post
    Addictive? To the extent that you'll never be completely satisfied with any frame you build. You may end up convincing yourself that just one more to get it really right then you'll quit.
    Sure.
    Is there anything on this bike that you're dissatisfied with?

    To most of us here I think it looks perfect - but the builder's eye is often more critical (sometimes ridiculously so).

  4. #279
    Member
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    Jun 2014
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    Copenhagen, Denmark
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    Orbea, Carlton, Gazelle, Centurion
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    Great bike, and great thread! Still being red

  5. #280
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    My Self Built frame was decades before the Digital camera and the internet were invented ..

    Borrowed tools and space.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 11-07-14 at 02:57 PM.

  6. #281
    Senior Member Cassave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    My Self Built frame was decades before the Digital camera and the internet were invented ..
    So was my first. When Kodachrome was king........

  7. #282
    Senior Member Gyro_T's Avatar
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    Oregon
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    1974 Jack Davis, Zeus Competition, Bridgestone MB2, Motebecane Grand Comp commuter, Salsa Fargo Ti
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    I am using neanderthal methods to make brackets for the racks I have built. I.E. when I need to fashion a bracket I am using the metal chop saw or angle grinder and cutting a small piece of chrome moly or stainless steel plate and grinding it on the grinder. I would like to find a more refined method of making pleasing shapes. I see you guys cutting cute little hearts and stuff out of lugs and I am amazed at the detail. A jewelers saw? A diamond blade in a coping saw? Mold maker's files, jeweler's files? What are the proper tools for this kind of work? Thanks in advance. BTW Cassave, the black flux did the trick for my silver solder and stainless projects. Could not get the turquoise Harris flux to make it flow right. Thanks
    Lover of art and function in lugged steel

  8. #283
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Rochester, NY
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    Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder
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    DSC01319.jpgJeweler's saws are great for really fine detail sawing. Drill a through hole and feed the blade through then carefully start the saw in the right direction. Expect to break a lot of blades 9that's why they are packaged by the dozens) and remember to have at least 2 or 3 teeth contacting the part.

    I make many of my own eyelets, cable stops and rack bosses from thick walled tubing. Here's a shot of a DT gear cable stop before it's brazing. The threaded section is from a canti boss. The jig is self made from scrap laying about. Andy.

  9. #284
    Newbie
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    Apr 2015
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    Bremen (Germany)
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    Bicycles San Remo / Selfmade Fixie / Old "Vaterland" Citybike an very old Citybike "Panther"
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    Hi guys,

    i build up a lugged steel bike and have made a blog (my first) about that. I would be pleased, if you have a look and gave me feedback about my work. No matter whether here or at the blog.

    https://hildesbikeblog.wordpress.com/

    Thanks in advance!

    Cheers
    Thomas

  10. #285
    Senior Member hopwheels's Avatar
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    Lawrenceville, GA
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    1993 Giant Sedona ATX, 2015 Windsor Cliff 650b
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    This is utterly stunning work. Incredibly documented. Really appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship. Just amazing.

  11. #286
    Junior Member
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    Los Angeles, California
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    Vitus 979, Orbit, Vitus 992(in progress)
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    This is Literally the most satisfying thing I've seen. You managed to put my life dream into this thread. You're work is amazing and I hope to be half as good as you when I learn how to make a bicycle. This is truly amazing. Thanks for your posts.

    Outstanding.

  12. #287
    Senior Member Gyro_T's Avatar
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    1974 Jack Davis, Zeus Competition, Bridgestone MB2, Motebecane Grand Comp commuter, Salsa Fargo Ti
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    Hello Steve,
    I have read back through this thread to try to get some insight on doing the fillet on the seat stays. The reason is that I am finally getting back to project I started years ago, and I guess you could say, I failed at. Since then I have practiced with some brazing and silver soldering projects and learned more about the importance of "prepping" the material, and the proper flux to use. I have disassembled the tubes from the lugs and starting over. I am apprehensive about the amount of heat around the seat cluster while creating the fillet on the seat stays. I am worried about affecting the joint of the top tube and the seat tube. Can you tell me what size tip you use and if you use something other than a neutral flame? I have seen heat sink materials to protect an area that will be heated adjacent to an area you are brazing. Do you use that stuff, or just a light touch with the torch? Thanks for sharing you knowledge,

    MB
    Lover of art and function in lugged steel

  13. #288
    Randomhead
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    don't worry about that, you will not re-melt the filler in the lugs when you do the seat stay joint

  14. #289
    Senior Member Cassave's Avatar
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    @Gyto_T

    As unterhausen said, not to worry.

    Brazing an uncapped seat stay to the seat lug doesn't need much heat buildup.

    I tend to braze everything with a #2 tip and a slightly carburizing flame.
    If you're doing shot-in stays, like the bike in this thread consider inverting the frame when you braze the seat cluster, upside down, the material flow works better that way.

  15. #290
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I made a one piece wrap over cap I added once the seat stays were on.

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