It depends whether you want to use regular size ones, or go all custom, or even bypass conventional mounting systems altogether.
Probably the simplest way of getting stronger eyelet, would be to go to a better quality drop. Most drops are cast, which is very low quality at best, find someone who laser cuts their drops, and it should be a big leap forward, or go to a better quality supplier, like Paragon (haven't personally tried their stuff) but they are legend, if not in the touring field). If you are just making a bike for yourself, it isn't too big a hassle to make your own drops. Another option is to just drill and thread a piece of bar, and then cut a shallow hollow in a beefy drop, and braze the barrel nut in place.
It isn't that uncommon to break the eyelets, to the extent that among super long distance cyclists the use of eyelets based on 6mm bolts is an occasionally heard recommended upgrade. This takes bolt breakage out of the picture also. Here is a typical statement on the MEC.ca website:
We started threading our bikes' braze-ons to fit them with 6mm bolts rather than the standard 5mm. Since then, our bolts have stopped breaking. We also use heavy duty galvanised steel collars to attach the top part of the racks to the seat stays. We find it easier to replace a broken collar than to extract a decapitated bolt from an eyelet."
The p-collar recommendation segues nicely into the idea of alternative attachment methods. At one extreme you have the idea of welding directly to the frame, as with Tout Terrain (an old idea though). On the front, some people drill through the fork blade, into the meat of the axle plate, and braze in a water bottle mount. Others braze the upper mounts low on the fork blades. More radical options would be to sort out completely different methods that might rely on beefy fittings. These kinds of options mean custom frames and racks. If one goes for stuff like that it is probably better to also have the conventional eyelets, just in case.