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  1. #1
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
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    braze-on for busch&muller dymotec-front fork

    A question for all y'all framebuilding gurus with experience with lighting setups:

    If you were building a fork to accommodate this bottle-dynamo, how would you go about it? If it matters, 26" wheels, haven't bought the dynamo yet, so i can go with a left- or right-hand mounted model.

    any input would be appreciated

    -rob

  2. #2
    Randomhead
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    I have never seen the braze on for dynamos for sale. It wouldn't be that hard to fabricate one, but the cost might make you wish you had gone with a dynohub.

  3. #3
    Senior Member long john's Avatar
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    go stainless steel and polish it

  4. #4
    Randomhead
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    I was just looking at pictures of a Rene Herse with a bottle dynamo. It had a round braze on similar to a bottle boss or a dropout eyelet. To avoid making a braze on, you could use a rack eyelet. The issue is that there is little adjustability, so a framebuilder should probably have the wheel/tire combo available for placement. The Rene Herse had the dynamo running off of the rim.

  5. #5
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    You can see one here

    Most of the fork braze-on tabs not really stiff enough. You are better off fabricating your own.
    Note that the location of the dynamo must work with the pivot to increase traction. With vertically oriented pivots you need the roller to be on the trailing side, not the leading side of the tyre.
    If you have a horizontal pivot it makes no difference.

    I use sidewall and hub dynamos. The hub version is much better, especially for regular and long duration use and in all weathers/conditions. Wheel bearing overhaul with a dynohub is a tricky business.

    The sidewall is OK for occasional use because it is drag-free when not in use. The position and stiffness of the mount are critical for performance.

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