Everyone has their own method and reasoning I am sure. I will tell you my order of business.
1) face BB, ream seat tube, face and ream head tube.
2) clamp BB to whipping post and level seat tube.
3) evaluate and address any twist in relation between head tube center line. I put a bar in the head tube that extends to where the front axle is located and take measurements at top of head tube and axle. I try to get the seat tube and head tube as close to perfect regarding twist. I then "fix" the head tube in this position with the head tube center line parallel and at the same elevation at seat tube.
4) Raise or lower the drops to match, check drop slots and face relation. Any amount you are off here is going to be area of greater concern. I also try to get this close to perfect.
Much of what is assumed to be "tolerances" is really not so much for me. You have the weight and fit of the tools, tube straightness, and the likelihood that you are merely distorting the BB shell with much of your effort all effecting the outcome. Even the best facing tools leave a fraction of a MM that ends up driving the seat tube out over 1mm at the top.
I learned a few tricks from a guy who said " when you ride,the seat tube is always vertical, keep that in mind".
I would say you are "out of spec" on the twist and fine on the height of the HT. I think that will change when you sort the seat tube however.