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  1. #1
    Villainous huerro's Avatar
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    Can I drill my brake bridge for recessed brakes?

    Is there any reason why I couldn't drill out the rear hole on this Trek 400 to 8mm so that I can mount modern dual pivot calipers?

    I've drilled a fork crown before which worked out well, but I'm afraid I'm missing something important here.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Senior Member ftwelder's Avatar
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    With that bridge, you should have no problem.
    1886 Surrey machinists Invincible, 1900 Nashua, 1937 Raleigh Golden Arrow, 1938 Raleigh Silver Record, 1951 Armstrong tourmalet, 1970 Motobecane Grand Record, 1971 Raleigh Professional, 1971 Gitane TDF, 1972 Legnano Gran Primio, 1973, Peugeot PX-10, 1975 Roberts, 1984 Battaglin Giro, 1985 Grandis Speciale, 2012 FTW

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  3. #3
    Senior Member mudboy's Avatar
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    YOu should be fine, but chances are that you'll need to use a right angle drill and a screw machine length bit, or break off a regular jobber drill bit to be short enough to fit with the drill between the seat tube and the bridge.
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  4. #4
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    It looks as if that bridge has a constant diameter hole of about 7 mm. Is that right?

    If so then yes theoretically you should be able to drill it for a recessed brake nut. What Mud says it true - you'll need a drill that will fit into the very small space between the bridge and the back of the seat tube - and this may be a real PITA.

    I have seen folks drill the hole from the outside so that you end up with a through hole of 8 mm and I suppose it would work but the hole wouldn't locate the brake bolt well and the nut would do all the location. Would this be an issue? Maybe but it seems like it would work. It would certainly be much easier to drill the bridge from the outside.

    Is that frame set up for a LRC? It's hard to tell but looks like it might be.

    Dave

  5. #5
    tru
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    Senior Member tru's Avatar
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    get some tektro R559s in the nutted/threaded version.

  6. #6
    Villainous huerro's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    I had thought about drilling just the outside and mounting the brake on the inside of the seat stays. That would also help get rid of any interference with mounting the rack. As it is now, it almost hits the barrel adjuster.

    I'm afraid I don't know what an LRC is. Long reach centerpull? If so, then no. The bike came from the factory with single pivot side pulls, with the front recessed and the back through the bridge.

    If I can't find a right angle drill to borrow, I will probably just mount the front brake through the bridge and mount the rear brake through the fork with a very long nut.

  7. #7
    Villainous huerro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tru View Post
    get some tektro R559s in the nutted/threaded version.
    I thought about them but I have a perfectly good set of dual pivot 105s in my parts drawer. No point in dropping $50 bucks when 10 minutes with a drill will do the job.

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    I'm sorry..... LRC means Long Reach Caliper.

    Dave

  9. #9
    Villainous huerro's Avatar
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    The brakes that it came with are 47-57. I measured the reach using Sheldon Brown's method to 49mm. And the 105s seem to fit fine with the pads bottomed out.

  10. #10
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    If you can find shouldered washers, you could drill it all the way through and use the washer on the back. These used to be available:


  11. #11
    Senior Member squirtdad's Avatar
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    you don't really need to do that. What I have done (twice) is from the sheldon brown playbook.

    Drill out the front fork holes.....it really is more like reaming out.... not a lot of metal is being removed.

    put ithe BACK caliper on the front, using a longer allen nut (most bike shops will have one)

    Use the FRONT caliper on the back and used use a nut to hold it in place.
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  12. #12
    Villainous huerro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
    you don't really need to do that. What I have done (twice) is from the sheldon brown playbook.

    Drill out the front fork holes.....it really is more like reaming out.... not a lot of metal is being removed.

    put ithe BACK caliper on the front, using a longer allen nut (most bike shops will have one)

    Use the FRONT caliper on the back and used use a nut to hold it in place.
    I tried that, but between the radiused washer and the thickness of the fork crown, the back brake bolt isn't long enough. There is nothing for a long nut to hold onto.

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    Can you just use an appropriate "Chicago bolt" to make it work somehow?

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    The hole doesn't need to be enlarged much. Grip a drill bit with some Channel Locks and do it by hand. Cutting oil makes it easier.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Alan Edwards's Avatar
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    I have a little block under my brake bolt nut. I don't know what it's called, but they used to be on old bikes all the time. It holds a presa/schader adapter on a little short bolt. On mine I took it off, drilled the hole and put the new brake on the bike. No drilling the frame at all and the brake stays centered. I have no idea where to find one to buy one. But it works great.
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  16. #16
    Cisalpinist Italuminium's Avatar
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    BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...

  17. #17
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    I'm going to drill mine. Just need to get a bit.
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
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  18. #18
    Senior Member ftwelder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
    BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
    No, you don't want to drill an aluminum frame.
    1886 Surrey machinists Invincible, 1900 Nashua, 1937 Raleigh Golden Arrow, 1938 Raleigh Silver Record, 1951 Armstrong tourmalet, 1970 Motobecane Grand Record, 1971 Raleigh Professional, 1971 Gitane TDF, 1972 Legnano Gran Primio, 1973, Peugeot PX-10, 1975 Roberts, 1984 Battaglin Giro, 1985 Grandis Speciale, 2012 FTW

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  19. #19
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwellman View Post
    I'm going to drill mine. Just need to get a bit.
    Ok, I had to settle for a 5/16 bit. . . and I turned that sucker by hand on both mounting holes (front and rear). Brakes are IN. They look weird on the frame though. Mid 90's shimano grey. . . Oh well, they WORK!
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
    BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
    Get longer bolts or get a front one and cut it, Nobody will noticed anyways because what will be sticking off the bridge is about 3 mm. Besides the internal part of the bridge is not visible like 99% of the time.

  21. #21
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ftwelder View Post
    No, you don't want to drill an aluminum frame.
    Why not?
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

  22. #22
    Cisalpinist Italuminium's Avatar
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    Yeah i figured that taking the drill to a 30 year old alloy bike was someting of a suicide. I ended up buying the same brakes in the non recessed version.

  23. #23
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    If there are already mounting holes, I maintain there;s still more to gain and less to lose reaming a larger diameter opening. I didn't use a drill on mine.


    On a side note. . crappy rear bracket is HIGHER than the fork crown. So my regular old 39-49mm work fine on the front. . . don't fit on the rear. X-mart special: what you gonna do?
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

  24. #24
    SE Wis dedhed's Avatar
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    I just did this with my Trek 400 for 6600 Ultegra brakes. Took about 15 min with a regular bit held in a vise grips. A little finish work with a rat tail file.
    '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

  25. #25
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    Yeah. . it's safer and, dare i say, easier to do it by hand. For the rear, it really is the only way.
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

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