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Old 03-09-11, 10:25 PM   #1
huerro
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Can I drill my brake bridge for recessed brakes?

Is there any reason why I couldn't drill out the rear hole on this Trek 400 to 8mm so that I can mount modern dual pivot calipers?

I've drilled a fork crown before which worked out well, but I'm afraid I'm missing something important here.

Thanks!

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Old 03-10-11, 04:01 AM   #2
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With that bridge, you should have no problem.
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Old 03-10-11, 07:44 AM   #3
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YOu should be fine, but chances are that you'll need to use a right angle drill and a screw machine length bit, or break off a regular jobber drill bit to be short enough to fit with the drill between the seat tube and the bridge.
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Old 03-10-11, 07:57 AM   #4
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It looks as if that bridge has a constant diameter hole of about 7 mm. Is that right?

If so then yes theoretically you should be able to drill it for a recessed brake nut. What Mud says it true - you'll need a drill that will fit into the very small space between the bridge and the back of the seat tube - and this may be a real PITA.

I have seen folks drill the hole from the outside so that you end up with a through hole of 8 mm and I suppose it would work but the hole wouldn't locate the brake bolt well and the nut would do all the location. Would this be an issue? Maybe but it seems like it would work. It would certainly be much easier to drill the bridge from the outside.

Is that frame set up for a LRC? It's hard to tell but looks like it might be.

Dave
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Old 03-10-11, 09:34 AM   #5
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get some tektro R559s in the nutted/threaded version.
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Old 03-10-11, 09:40 AM   #6
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Thanks.

I had thought about drilling just the outside and mounting the brake on the inside of the seat stays. That would also help get rid of any interference with mounting the rack. As it is now, it almost hits the barrel adjuster.

I'm afraid I don't know what an LRC is. Long reach centerpull? If so, then no. The bike came from the factory with single pivot side pulls, with the front recessed and the back through the bridge.

If I can't find a right angle drill to borrow, I will probably just mount the front brake through the bridge and mount the rear brake through the fork with a very long nut.
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Old 03-10-11, 09:43 AM   #7
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get some tektro R559s in the nutted/threaded version.
I thought about them but I have a perfectly good set of dual pivot 105s in my parts drawer. No point in dropping $50 bucks when 10 minutes with a drill will do the job.
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Old 03-10-11, 09:58 AM   #8
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I'm sorry..... LRC means Long Reach Caliper.

Dave
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Old 03-10-11, 10:33 AM   #9
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The brakes that it came with are 47-57. I measured the reach using Sheldon Brown's method to 49mm. And the 105s seem to fit fine with the pads bottomed out.
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Old 03-13-11, 09:47 PM   #10
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If you can find shouldered washers, you could drill it all the way through and use the washer on the back. These used to be available:

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Old 03-14-11, 01:30 PM   #11
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you don't really need to do that. What I have done (twice) is from the sheldon brown playbook.

Drill out the front fork holes.....it really is more like reaming out.... not a lot of metal is being removed.

put ithe BACK caliper on the front, using a longer allen nut (most bike shops will have one)

Use the FRONT caliper on the back and used use a nut to hold it in place.
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Old 03-18-11, 10:41 PM   #12
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you don't really need to do that. What I have done (twice) is from the sheldon brown playbook.

Drill out the front fork holes.....it really is more like reaming out.... not a lot of metal is being removed.

put ithe BACK caliper on the front, using a longer allen nut (most bike shops will have one)

Use the FRONT caliper on the back and used use a nut to hold it in place.
I tried that, but between the radiused washer and the thickness of the fork crown, the back brake bolt isn't long enough. There is nothing for a long nut to hold onto.
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Old 03-19-11, 04:29 AM   #13
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Can you just use an appropriate "Chicago bolt" to make it work somehow?
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Old 04-10-11, 03:15 PM   #14
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The hole doesn't need to be enlarged much. Grip a drill bit with some Channel Locks and do it by hand. Cutting oil makes it easier.
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Old 04-16-11, 11:34 PM   #15
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I have a little block under my brake bolt nut. I don't know what it's called, but they used to be on old bikes all the time. It holds a presa/schader adapter on a little short bolt. On mine I took it off, drilled the hole and put the new brake on the bike. No drilling the frame at all and the brake stays centered. I have no idea where to find one to buy one. But it works great.
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Old 04-21-11, 07:40 AM   #16
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BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
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Old 04-21-11, 07:29 PM   #17
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I'm going to drill mine. Just need to get a bit.
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Old 04-22-11, 02:49 AM   #18
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BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
No, you don't want to drill an aluminum frame.
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Old 04-22-11, 06:29 PM   #19
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I'm going to drill mine. Just need to get a bit.
Ok, I had to settle for a 5/16 bit. . . and I turned that sucker by hand on both mounting holes (front and rear). Brakes are IN. They look weird on the frame though. Mid 90's shimano grey. . . Oh well, they WORK!
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Old 04-22-11, 06:53 PM   #20
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BUMP for basically the same reason... Except my bike is an ALAN Super Record. I'm trying to get a Super record group on it, but it seems the bolts are too short. Can I safely drill the fork and bridge? It's an aluminium bike...
Get longer bolts or get a front one and cut it, Nobody will noticed anyways because what will be sticking off the bridge is about 3 mm. Besides the internal part of the bridge is not visible like 99% of the time.
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Old 04-22-11, 07:13 PM   #21
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No, you don't want to drill an aluminum frame.
Why not?
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Old 04-23-11, 01:19 AM   #22
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Yeah i figured that taking the drill to a 30 year old alloy bike was someting of a suicide. I ended up buying the same brakes in the non recessed version.
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Old 04-23-11, 06:49 AM   #23
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If there are already mounting holes, I maintain there;s still more to gain and less to lose reaming a larger diameter opening. I didn't use a drill on mine.


On a side note. . crappy rear bracket is HIGHER than the fork crown. So my regular old 39-49mm work fine on the front. . . don't fit on the rear. X-mart special: what you gonna do?
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Old 04-23-11, 09:10 PM   #24
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I just did this with my Trek 400 for 6600 Ultegra brakes. Took about 15 min with a regular bit held in a vise grips. A little finish work with a rat tail file.
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Old 04-24-11, 06:40 AM   #25
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Yeah. . it's safer and, dare i say, easier to do it by hand. For the rear, it really is the only way.
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