Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Framebuilders Thinking about a custom frame? Lugged vs Fillet Brazed. Different Frame materials? Newvex or Pacenti Lugs? why get a custom Road, Mountain, or Track Frame? Got a question about framebuilding? Lets discuss framebuilding at it's finest.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-04-12, 05:56 PM   #1
Aquakitty
Canadian Chick
Thread Starter
 
Aquakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: BC, Canada
Bikes: Lots
Posts: 641
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
MAPP brazing in the cold weather.

I bought a MAPP/Oxy kit to do some brazing on hi-ten steel, no joints or anything fancy, just for braze-ons and practice. Sorry if this is a really dumb question but I don't have anywhere I can braze indoors (I assume that is a bad idea unless you have ventilation or a huge area). Anyways the temps outside are around -5c - 0c. Should I bother trying to braze or wait till it warm up? I just don't want to make it harder for myself or waste the oxygen bottles.
Aquakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-12, 07:03 PM   #2
unterhausen
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Bikes:
Posts: 14,583
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
anyfuel/oxy will work ok no matter where you are. I can't imagine brazing when it's that cold, I braze in the garage, and 40F is cold enough to make it no fun at all
unterhausen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-12, 11:15 PM   #3
Aquakitty
Canadian Chick
Thread Starter
 
Aquakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: BC, Canada
Bikes: Lots
Posts: 641
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
anyfuel/oxy will work ok no matter where you are. I can't imagine brazing when it's that cold, I braze in the garage, and 40F is cold enough to make it no fun at all
You mean it will work ok but you are just wimpy about the cold? hehe. Actually that is pretty warm for this time of year around here. I don't have a problem with the cold (try snowboarding in -30c windchill!).
Aquakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-12, 11:45 PM   #4
Andrew R Stewart 
Andrew R Stewart
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder
Posts: 6,632
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
When I lived in Raleigh, NC I had to do my brazing outsides. This meant a tent to block the wind. Still the breeze that filtered through was a pain. but this was with O/A torch set up so the heat levels were not a big deal. I did need to reduce the tube's chimney effects with plugs (still allowing some vent capicity) to minimize the cooling effects of the cold air. I have brazed in below freezing conditions this way. If you think about it, excepting the greater cooling, the ambiant temp is not too much less in comparison to the level you need to get to for brazing. But as Eric alludes to the MAAP torch is lacking in heat output to begin with. So any extra problems are just insult to injury. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-12, 11:12 AM   #5
Aquakitty
Canadian Chick
Thread Starter
 
Aquakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: BC, Canada
Bikes: Lots
Posts: 641
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
When I lived in Raleigh, NC I had to do my brazing outsides. This meant a tent to block the wind. Still the breeze that filtered through was a pain. but this was with O/A torch set up so the heat levels were not a big deal. I did need to reduce the tube's chimney effects with plugs (still allowing some vent capicity) to minimize the cooling effects of the cold air. I have brazed in below freezing conditions this way. If you think about it, excepting the greater cooling, the ambiant temp is not too much less in comparison to the level you need to get to for brazing. But as Eric alludes to the MAAP torch is lacking in heat output to begin with. So any extra problems are just insult to injury. Andy.

Oh I am sure I will be insulting and injuring myself when I first attempt this regardless off the temperature
Aquakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-12, 11:38 AM   #6
unterhausen
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Bikes:
Posts: 14,583
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
OT: Andy, good to see we got you a 't' on your user name

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquakitty View Post
You mean it will work ok but you are just wimpy about the cold? hehe. Actually that is pretty warm for this time of year around here. I don't have a problem with the cold (try snowboarding in -30c windchill!).
I'm not particularly afraid of the cold, I used to commute on my bike 20 miles round trip, have ridden that in -30C temperatures more than once. But there is some point where working on a task that requires hand-eye coordination is made a lot more difficult. Brazing is not so bad, but the measuring and other futzing around that precedes it are not much fun in the cold.

You could leave your parts inside until you need to braze them. I actually did that recently because my garage isn't heated and I got tired of holding freezing steel tubes.

MAPP/Oxy will be able to overcome the cold, but if you are using MAPP/air, extreme cold might be a problem. I don't know.

Last edited by unterhausen; 02-05-12 at 11:46 AM.
unterhausen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-12, 04:10 PM   #7
tuz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Toronto/Montréal
Bikes: Homemade mixte, track, commuter and road, Ryffranck road
Posts: 1,180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I don't think the ambient temperature is that relevant; whether is -5 or + 30 C it's still a long way to 900 C when brass melts. The cooling rate won't change much either (you don't want things to cool too fast or too slow). However like Andrew said you need to be shielded from the wind... the tiniest breeze will mess up your flame and wind will blow it out altogether. My shop isn't directly heated and I've worked from -5 to 5 C this winter. The biggest hassle is manipulating cold steel.
tuz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:03 AM.