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  1. #1
    Canadian Chick Aquakitty's Avatar
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    MAPP brazing in the cold weather.

    I bought a MAPP/Oxy kit to do some brazing on hi-ten steel, no joints or anything fancy, just for braze-ons and practice. Sorry if this is a really dumb question but I don't have anywhere I can braze indoors (I assume that is a bad idea unless you have ventilation or a huge area). Anyways the temps outside are around -5c - 0c. Should I bother trying to braze or wait till it warm up? I just don't want to make it harder for myself or waste the oxygen bottles.

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    Randomhead
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    anyfuel/oxy will work ok no matter where you are. I can't imagine brazing when it's that cold, I braze in the garage, and 40F is cold enough to make it no fun at all

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    Canadian Chick Aquakitty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
    anyfuel/oxy will work ok no matter where you are. I can't imagine brazing when it's that cold, I braze in the garage, and 40F is cold enough to make it no fun at all
    You mean it will work ok but you are just wimpy about the cold? hehe. Actually that is pretty warm for this time of year around here. I don't have a problem with the cold (try snowboarding in -30c windchill!).

  4. #4
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    When I lived in Raleigh, NC I had to do my brazing outsides. This meant a tent to block the wind. Still the breeze that filtered through was a pain. but this was with O/A torch set up so the heat levels were not a big deal. I did need to reduce the tube's chimney effects with plugs (still allowing some vent capicity) to minimize the cooling effects of the cold air. I have brazed in below freezing conditions this way. If you think about it, excepting the greater cooling, the ambiant temp is not too much less in comparison to the level you need to get to for brazing. But as Eric alludes to the MAAP torch is lacking in heat output to begin with. So any extra problems are just insult to injury. Andy.

  5. #5
    Canadian Chick Aquakitty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
    When I lived in Raleigh, NC I had to do my brazing outsides. This meant a tent to block the wind. Still the breeze that filtered through was a pain. but this was with O/A torch set up so the heat levels were not a big deal. I did need to reduce the tube's chimney effects with plugs (still allowing some vent capicity) to minimize the cooling effects of the cold air. I have brazed in below freezing conditions this way. If you think about it, excepting the greater cooling, the ambiant temp is not too much less in comparison to the level you need to get to for brazing. But as Eric alludes to the MAAP torch is lacking in heat output to begin with. So any extra problems are just insult to injury. Andy.

    Oh I am sure I will be insulting and injuring myself when I first attempt this regardless off the temperature

  6. #6
    Randomhead
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    OT: Andy, good to see we got you a 't' on your user name

    Quote Originally Posted by Aquakitty View Post
    You mean it will work ok but you are just wimpy about the cold? hehe. Actually that is pretty warm for this time of year around here. I don't have a problem with the cold (try snowboarding in -30c windchill!).
    I'm not particularly afraid of the cold, I used to commute on my bike 20 miles round trip, have ridden that in -30C temperatures more than once. But there is some point where working on a task that requires hand-eye coordination is made a lot more difficult. Brazing is not so bad, but the measuring and other futzing around that precedes it are not much fun in the cold.

    You could leave your parts inside until you need to braze them. I actually did that recently because my garage isn't heated and I got tired of holding freezing steel tubes.

    MAPP/Oxy will be able to overcome the cold, but if you are using MAPP/air, extreme cold might be a problem. I don't know.
    Last edited by unterhausen; 02-05-12 at 10:46 AM.

  7. #7
    tuz
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    I don't think the ambient temperature is that relevant; whether is -5 or + 30 C it's still a long way to 900 C when brass melts. The cooling rate won't change much either (you don't want things to cool too fast or too slow). However like Andrew said you need to be shielded from the wind... the tiniest breeze will mess up your flame and wind will blow it out altogether. My shop isn't directly heated and I've worked from -5 to 5 C this winter. The biggest hassle is manipulating cold steel.
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