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  1. #1
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    Repairing Cracked CAAD9 Downtube Cable Stop?

    I recently got a CAAD9 frame for $150, and the only problem with it is that the downtube cable stop on the drive side is cracked. One response I got from a reputable frame builder in the area was:

    "I don't think I can repair that. It really needs to be welded, and I'm not up for that fix without doing further damage to the frame. A different fix for it would be to file off the remaining nub of a stop, and rivet on a cable stop on the down tube. (That's how I run all my aluminum frames.)"

    What do you guys think? Any advice would be very welcome.

    IMG_2275.jpgIMG_2274.jpg

  2. #2
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    Quick fix would be to epoxy or Jb weld or supermend the housing tip onto whats left of the stop.
    The remaining rim at the bottom would keep it from pulling thru and once set all three options would be shapeable and fairly unnoticeable.

    The rivet option is good as well.

    Rivetable stops are available here; http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-...-STI-STOP.html

    or just a cable stop; http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-...RIVET-BLK.html

  3. #3
    Randomhead
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    normally I don't like JB weld repairs, but since you have most of the fitting still there, that's what I would go with

  4. #4
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    Do you think that JB Weld would hold a ferrule in there securely enough? I've never used it, but I'd hate to have it pop out when I'm miles away from home out or in the mountains.

  5. #5
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    If you clean it well enough and if you form it just so, so that there is some overlapping material around the body of the remaining brazeon I think that it will be fine or I wouldn't have suggested it.
    The fact that there is still the lip at the bottom (which is what actually provides resistance for the system to work) means that it won't take much at all to hold it together. I'm pretty sure that if I took some thin strips of athletic tape and lashed it on there I could get 6-7000 miles out of it before I needed to change the tape.

    After looking again, you may even gain some success by simply epoxing the ferrule into what is there now without any build up. Try it out, what do you have to lose?
    Maybe a small pinch with pliers to close it a little bit. It's possible that it was broken by someone trying to open it more to put in a thicker ferrule..........

  6. #6
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    Also, you may want to cross your cables so if it does snap you only loose the front shifting.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Remove fork and lower head set race
    file broken piece off flush to the base, drill and tap the aluminum, head-tube.

    .. braze a steel frame stop on a machine screw-head,
    .. thread it in with loctite on the thread,

    file (or Dremel) off any excess that sticks out, proud, on the inside,

    reinstall headset and fork.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 02-15-12 at 04:15 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cynikal View Post
    Also, you may want to cross your cables so if it does snap you only loose the front shifting.
    Tremendous idea!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Remove fork and lower head set race
    file broken piece off flush to the base, drill and tap the aluminum, head-tube.

    .. braze a steel frame stop on a machine screw-head,
    .. thread it in with loctite on the thread,

    file (or Dremel) off any excess that sticks out, proud, on the inside,

    reinstall headset and fork.
    Best idea yet, although more expensive than my athletic tape :-)

  10. #10
    shut up and ride
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    not the cheap option, go electronic!

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