Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Framebuilders Thinking about a custom frame? Lugged vs Fillet Brazed. Different Frame materials? Newvex or Pacenti Lugs? why get a custom Road, Mountain, or Track Frame? Got a question about framebuilding? Lets discuss framebuilding at it's finest.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-02-12, 12:10 PM   #1
Aaron_F
A guy who rides bikes
Thread Starter
 
Aaron_F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mid-Missouri
Bikes:
Posts: 454
How to notch DS chainstay to better clear small chainring?

Title says it all. What's a good method for doing this on a steel frame?
Aaron_F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-12, 05:06 PM   #2
unterhausen
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Bikes:
Posts: 14,482
dimple it with a piece of wood and a c-clamp. Is this on a road bike?
unterhausen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-12, 05:44 PM   #3
randomgear
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: beantown
Bikes: '89 Specialized Hardrock Fixed Gear Commuter; 1984? Dawes Atlantis
Posts: 831
Pictures can be found here from Alex Wetmore's blog: http://alexandchristine.smugmug.com/...52_6iwL8-M.jpg

and: http://alexwetmore.org/?cat=191
randomgear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-12, 07:10 PM   #4
unterhausen
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Bikes:
Posts: 14,482
Thanks, I was thinking that Alex Wetmore had posted some pictures of dimpling. That setup should work, the block with the groove in it for the chainstay might have to be thinner so it will fit
unterhausen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-12, 04:20 PM   #5
Aaron_F
A guy who rides bikes
Thread Starter
 
Aaron_F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mid-Missouri
Bikes:
Posts: 454
Thanks, guys. Randomgear, that photos helps a ton more than the descriptions I've read. Yes, it's for a road bike, but I'm spreading the frame to 130mm in the rear, so I'm concerned about clearance, which is already pretty minimal. I'll cold set it first, see how it goes, and then dimple it if it's still necessary.
Aaron_F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-12, 12:54 AM   #6
randomgear
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: beantown
Bikes: '89 Specialized Hardrock Fixed Gear Commuter; 1984? Dawes Atlantis
Posts: 831
I've used a piece of threaded rod with two washers and nuts on the inside to spread a frame, it worked rather well. I spread it to 140mm then backed the nuts off then checked after 5mm increases until I got to 135mm (old mountain bike turned commuter).
A few years ago I tried the Sheldon Brown 2x4 method, it worked, but mostly opened up on one side -funny that despite being out of alignment, the bike still rides just fine no handed.
randomgear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-12, 02:46 AM   #7
ftwelder
Senior Member
 
ftwelder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Bikes: Many
Posts: 3,092
Keep in mind that the chain stay will be a bit shorter after it is crimped.
ftwelder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-12, 12:25 PM   #8
Andycapp
Senior Member
 
Andycapp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Puyallup, WA
Bikes: Tommasini Super Prestige, Kamra Triathlee, Nishiki Tri-A equipe', Sakai 2000
Posts: 446
^ I was wondering about that and alignment after. Can/should this be done before cutting and brazing? Or is the change pretty minimal? I was also wondering about cutting and brazing in a scallop like the tops of seat stays. I think this would make for a clean/unique stay, but would it weaken it at all?
-Andy
Andycapp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-12, 01:43 PM   #9
unterhausen
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Bikes:
Posts: 14,482
my thought is that you don't want to braze in a scallop unless you have a lot of surface area overlap. You could look around at what mtb builders have gotten away with. On a road bike, dimpling is a no-brainer. Brazing in a scallop will cause all sorts of heat related movement, might have to cold-set afterwards

It's best dimple before attaching the stays, but I have successfully done it afterwards. I used to run a round rod down the stays and hammer it into place for the tire clearance dimples. I really like the way it looks, it's probably horrible way to do it from a longevity point of view though.
unterhausen is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:57 PM.