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  1. #1
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    Drain holes in existing frame (new)

    I am repainting a 1994 Burley Duet tandem. I noticed that there are not any drain holes of any kind in the tubing. I sound concened and am. Should I be?

    When disassembling the bike, about a 1/4 cup of water came out of the captains seat tube! The internal rust does not concern me as being significant and will be treated. I would like not to have an increase in the weight of the frame when it rains! Niether of the BB's have an opening to the intersecting tubes.

    My thoughts were to drill 1/8' holes in the tubes to allow any moisture to escape. Of course they would be located for the maximum protection from "driving" water exposure and maximize drainage (no pockets for accumulation. My plan was to "frame save" the tubes as well and by adding the drain holes, I could get more of the fluid out. Besides both seat tubes, there are three tubes that have bottle cage mounts installed but no drainage holes. Any tubes closed would remain so.

    What are your thougths?

  2. #2
    Randomhead
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    holes into the seat tube through the bottom bracket make a lot of sense. Seat posts don't seem to stop water very well. I don't know if I would expect water to come in any other way

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    90, I built a touring bike using Burly's rear BB shell , drilled a zirk fitting in it and filled the space with grease.
    I took the inner seal off the bearing i bought,so it is bathed in a big puddle of grease ,
    for pretty much lifetime lubrication.
    not having a hole into the BB shell can have advantages ..
    the frame saver application in the seat tube, should resolve rust issues

    do you find water puddled when you removed the stoker's seat post, too?

    hard to drill through a BB shell of a completed bike, particularly one as thick as ATP/Burly used ..

    Maybe a pinhole in the bottom of the seat tube itself.. ?

    IDK about the front-eccentric the aluminum piece inside Bind when trying to move it?

    having water seep in that space would get into galvanic corrosion, issue.. ala stuck seatposts.

    so Id add that into your consideration ..

    the snap ring oversize bearing Burly BB shells were, I think, about .125"+ wall, tube thickness
    at least the back one (im familiar with) so as to have sufficient steel
    to cut the snap ring grooves in the ends.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 01-09-14 at 07:10 PM.

  4. #4
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    It's not too hard to pierce (note I didn't say drill) a BB shell to vent to a frame tube. A Dremel and a bunch of time... But through the shell drilling so the shell has a vent on it's bottom as well as the ST bottom is quicker and possible smarter. Vent holes in the frame tubes should be a little bit away from the weld (as in the Burley, or fillets for others) but not so far that they're through the transition or thin section of the tube. Drill two vents if you're going to do one and make them large enough to insert a spray can's tube.

    To vent or not to is a debate that will continue after we all are long gone. If the tube is not fully sealed (as in no through the bearing access or past a post or stem) then i say close up all vents. But if a tube has an opening, NO MATTER WHAT'S PLUGGING THE OPENING then water will somehow get in. These tubes need an ability to open them up fully. That's either with added vent holes or with FREQUENT disassembly and maintenance. Andy.

  5. #5
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    Thanks for your replies!

    I was not going to open the BB's. The front-eccentric would be coated with a lubricant or sealed to prevent corrosion. This bike looked pretty bad under the paint but he inside of the front-eccentric was pretty clean with very minor rust. I think sealing the ends with grease will keep the water out.

    Getting the rear BB bearings out was more than I am willing to do. They spin fine and I think there was enough grease around the C clips that very little if any water penetrated the bearing/shell interface. Using the evedince from the front-eccentric as a reference, I think it is fine.

    The stoker ST did not have any water in it. I can't explain why one and not the other. I have not ridden this bike yet. I took it home and stripped it immediately. All the components were well lubricated indicating either good maintenence or little use. The brake pads have not been used enough to have scoring along the full surface.

    Creating a hole big enough for a spray can tube is a really good idea! Thanks! The seat tubes, boob tube and the mid tube (correct name?) are the tubes of greatest concern. Ok maybe the top tube too since it has inserts for mounting a rack. The down tube is open at the stoker BB, so is not an issue. I think the rear triangle is completely closed.

    Drilling or creating holes in an assembled frame can be a challenge. If I can't get to a good spot, maybe I should let it go and insure it gets treated internally.

  6. #6
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    As long as the frame is bare you might consider adding external gear cable routing bits. I did this with my 1st gen. Duet before I had it repainted. made for far easier servicing in the future and I added cable adjusters too, so cable tension could be done on the ft. (This was before inline adjusters were common.) I also added a few other bits for water bottles where i wanted them and a rear brake casing stops with adjusters.

    My Duet was one on the first in the small size (#069) and my late wife and I road it for 20 years. I did replace the crank bearings twice (second time was during the repaint) and have some advice if you do the same.

    I found the open bottom end of the DT/Boob Tube allowed for good water draining and evaporation. While we rode our bike through some torrential times we had little water getting inside the tubes in general.

    I still have a couple of the big oval "burley" decals if you're interested. About 12" by 1.75". I think the backround color is white with black lettering and outline. Andy.

  7. #7
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    Andrew, Thanks for the input! The SN is 2683, much later than your 069! The cables run internal to the DT/Boob tube and exit out the back. This applies to the RD, FD and Drag brake. I don't have easy access to braze on parts so the modification might take more time than I am patient for! In line adjusters does sound like a good additon. I will consider them. The rear brake cable is exposed and has 3 guides on the TT with an adjustment hardware that mounts on the top of the wishbone base. I will be adding a friction thumb shifter for the Arai instead of the stock two'fer cable on the right side.

    Currently there are 4 WB mounts. A 5th could be added to the stoker DT. Hmmmm.... We don't plan on doing a lot of touring, if any, however, the next owner might.

    I had replication decals made as water slides to put under the final clear coat. Can you send a pic of the decal you are refering too?

    I have OCD amount of pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/1120948...7638853453476/

  8. #8
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    1.jpgI tried to scan the decals i have without good results. There's protective paper on both surfaces and i don't want to peel them off, concerns about effecting the adhesion when actuallied applied. So i went on line and found a photo of a Burley tandem with the same decals on it. Here it is. Andy.

  9. #9
    Framebuilder
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    You guys are killing me it's a BOOM tube!

  10. #10
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    I was looking for these and did aquire them. The smaller version of the Headbadge was scaled incorrectly but that is being addressed.

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