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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveD View Post
    You will want the head tube and bottom bracket, and probably seat tube in Aluminum since it bonds with epoxy better than most metals. It needs to be cleaned with special chemicals, and then can be bonded.
    West Systems also makes a part #860 etching prep for aluminum. it is a two step process that is VERY effective. You NEED to etch prior to gluing aluminum to insure a good joint.
    Last edited by Dancingbear; 02-15-14 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Somehow inserted a hash tag? deleted it.

  2. #27
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    Not sure what your plan is for attaching the head tube but I'm pretty sure it is the same tube that Nova makes their Aluminum BB shells from.
    I'd still go with all aluminum.
    I really hope you make the frame before you buy all those parts, just to make sure it turns out like you want.

  3. #28
    Hey let's ride. pathdoc's Avatar
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    This is so interesting. Will follow along. I would love to do something like this as well.

  4. #29
    Nigel nfmisso's Avatar
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    I need to make a few comments.

    1. Epoxies and almost all commercially available adhesives stick best to iron and iron alloys (aka steel) far better than they stick to aluminum, typically ~25% stronger: reference: Design Guide for Bonding Metals (LT-3371)

    2. Given your lack of basic understanding of bicycle geometry; I would strongly suggest that you purchase and old bike or three. In San Jose we have Good Karma http://goodkarmabikes.org/ where they sell excess junker bikes for a few dollars. Some are actually in excellent condition. You may even want to consider salvaging components and/or cutting up the frame for the pieces you want.

    3. Do not expect to get it right the first time.
    Nigel
    Mechanical Design Engineer

  5. #30
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    Minor update. I have begun making my 3d model and I have researched more about aluminum to wood bonding, and I agree that there seems to be some cause for concern. There seems to be a lot of ways to make aluminum bond well for a few years, but then bonds have a tendency to fail.

    The main issue I have right now is that I can not find a headtube that does not need to be reamed and faced. I do not own a headtube reamer and prices online were around 400 for one so I have no plans for buying one. Since my headtube will not be welded I do not have to worry about distortion.

    Does anyone have a source for pre-reamed headtubes?

  6. #31
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    This is but one reason that a starting builder really need s to have a relationship with a service shop near by. This shop should have th cutting tools needed to prep a frame for component installs.

    Specifically- it is not hard to do the machining of a head tube prior to the frame's construction. I bet theme are any number of people here (on this forum) who could help out with a head tube cut and machined to your spec. Andy.

  7. #32
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    Thanks Andy,

    I have come to the same conclusion and will find a local bike shop that owns a reamer/facer and will see what they charge for the service.

  8. #33
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    You can also just remove the headtube from a scrap bike. Go to a shop and see if they have any frames that they are tossing due to other damage.
    I get headtubes reamed and faced for about $40.
    If you are going to try to glue aluminum, use the etch system or don't do it.

  9. #34
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    I am actually beginning this project now and was wondering how your build ended up or if your still in progress. I've been gathering materials for a basic fixie style road bike for my work commute(like 2 miles) and a recumbent tadpole trike for fun. The head tube is a perplexing issue and was wondering how you got around it.

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