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  1. #1
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    Help building my first steel frame bike

    Hello all,
    So Ill start this up front by stating Im total newb. I bought a sirrus comp last year and love it. But, being a shade tree mechanic for many years I cant resist the itch to translate my car hobby into building a bike. Now I understand all the benefits pros/coms of aluminum, carbon, titanium, etc. and lets assume all the arguments for going with other frame materials are correct...lets also assume I don't care and want classic steel. So my starting point is obviously which steel frame to pick? I've searched the forums but most of the threads point to building your own and what websites to find materials. I cant build a frame in my apartment. So Im hoping you guys can help me select a complete frame I can use for the basis of my build. Can someone point me to a few frame manufactures for a good lightweight steel frame?

  2. #2
    Randomhead
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    yes, this the framebuilders forum, we talk about taking tubes and making a frame. So your post is not in the right place. Having said that, you haven't really given us anything to work with here. What kind of bike do you want to end up with? How much do you want to spend? I recently bought a frame because I needed one and didn't have time to build. I bought an All City. They are making nice frames at a decent price. I had the components to build a bike and so I went with the bare frame, but the built up bikes are a much better deal, especially if you hit a summer sale. Just something to think about. There are plenty of wrenching opportunities. Call me jaded, but building a bike up from a frame is not that exciting to me anymore, especially when I see the money draining from my wallet

  3. #3
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    If it's the excitement of building up a bike from parts, you could dis-assemble the Sirrus and re-assemble it. You could replace parts as they wear out or as you want to upgrade.

    You'd be surprised at how much better a bike can get with a careful build up. Typically shops assemble bikes quickly from factory prepared sub-assemblies - not that they are poorly assembled but, not as good as they could be. Usually they are pretty good but, bearings are often too tight, pieces aren't greased (pedals and seatpost specifically) etc.

    If you're looking for a nice lightweight steel frame, I'm sure several of the contributors here would be happy to make something for you.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies. Really, I like the sirrus, but want to build something, just for the sake of building it. The bike fits well and Id probably stick with the same hybrid handlebar layout just because drop bars seem to give me shoulder issues. Really, Im just looking for some recommendations on good light steel frames. Im too novice to be able to know any more specific then that. But I do appreciate the replies!
    FWIW, which would be the right section for this post?
    Thanks again.

  5. #5
    Randomhead
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    Putting the thread in here is fine, except you aren't really getting the right crowd in here to answer your question properly. So help us help you by defining the problem. You are going to have to define how much you want to spend, what components, and what you are going to do with the bike, so you might as well figure that out now. If it's all sorts of things, let us know that. The all-rounder bike is a growing segment of the bike population. Even some very serious cyclists don't want to have a lot of bikes.

    As far as where you should have put the thread, off the top of my head there are a lot of places it could have gone depending on what you are doing with the bike. If you are going to ride loaded touring, the touring section. Single speed/fixed gear has a section. The bike mechanics section would work for any type of bike. Commuting would work. The sirrus is a hybrid, so the hybrid section would work. Riding it off-road, mountain biking section. Gravel road riding, Recreational cyclocross section.

  6. #6
    Senior Member squirtdad's Avatar
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    you would probably get good input from C&V

    A couple of considerations:

    do you care if it is lugged or welded?

    do you care if the fork is steel or carbon

    What are you going to use the bike for?

    Fast road, touring, commuting?

    what type of components are you thinking? single speed/fixie, derailer, Internal gear?

    My opinion/recommendation/rant is to consider drop bars.....they are far more versatile than pure flat bars. personally flat, straight bars cause me pain

    understand that building is likely to be more expensive than buying a complete bike, unless you have a big parts bin

    Some frame ideas for you:

    used frame (miyata, panasonic, centurion, bridgestone are good quality 80's/90's frame to look for)

    Surly

    cross check (cyclo cross, well regarded for overall use) Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes

    pacer (road) Pacer | Bikes | Surly Bikes

    long haul trucker (touring, well regarded general use and commuting) Long Haul Trucker | Bikes | Surly Bikes


    soma

    double cross (cyclocross, versatile) Double Cross | SOMA Fabrications

    san marcos (very nice frame general use/road designed by Grant petersen of Rivendell) San Marcos Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications

    stanyan (nice lugged road frame) Stanyan Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications

    wraith

    this is a robbietunes best value frame ($1090...not $300 as I posted)

    Pre-Order No.2 : The Hustle, Road | Wraith Fabrication
    Last edited by squirtdad; 06-25-14 at 03:51 PM.
    '82 Nishiski commuter/utility
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    '89 Miyata 1400
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    looking for: De Rosa 58cm ELOS frame and fork internal cable routing

  7. #7
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    Just to clarify, the wraith hustle frame is not $300, that's the deposit. It's $1090.

  8. #8
    Senior Member squirtdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by likebike23 View Post
    Just to clarify, the wraith hustle frame is not $300, that's the deposit. It's $1090.
    my bad...I was reading wrong....corrected in my post.....
    '82 Nishiski commuter/utility
    '83 Torpado Super Strada ... cafe commuter
    '89 Miyata 1400
    Soma rush Fixie
    '78 Univega gran turismo (son's Fixie/SS)
    06 Haro x3 (son's bmx)
    Electra cruiser (wife's bike)

    looking for: De Rosa 58cm ELOS frame and fork internal cable routing

  9. #9
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    Drop bars are somewhat misnamed, the implication being that they are lower than some other bars. Of course relative to the tops, the lower section is dropped, but it could just as well be regarded as standards, and you could call them tops. The real idea is that the hand polistions are for the most part correct (handshake position), and there are lots of different positions, a half dozen or a dozen. And there are many levels. What height you situate them at is another mater. The next most efficient bar is probably the Miss Gulch type.


  10. #10
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    Thanks for the replies.
    Im mostly staying away from drop bars just because I get some pretty bad numbness in my arms the more weight I put forward, drop bars seem to magnify it...but thats for another thread. Thanks for the links. That's pretty much what i was looking for. Ill start a build thread at some point.
    Appreciate the help folks

  11. #11
    Randomhead
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    in general, if you are putting too much weight on your hands your seat needs to go back

  12. #12
    Andrew R Stewart Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
    in general, if you are putting too much weight on your hands your seat needs to go back
    Agreed with. Before any new tube is mitered a full understanding of and experienced fit is needed. Andy.

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