Internal Gears & Belt-drive can be Big Boost for Cycling
#51
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on target, IMO, and...
4) leads to 5) sweaty, stinky bodies that some people cannot abide, in themselves or others. a 'bird bath' in the restroom, and complete change of clean clothes, was sufficient for me. although i have to admit i never solicited an opinion from my work mates.
4) leads to 5) sweaty, stinky bodies that some people cannot abide, in themselves or others. a 'bird bath' in the restroom, and complete change of clean clothes, was sufficient for me. although i have to admit i never solicited an opinion from my work mates.
I found it really easy to ditch my car for errands. Most people can as well.
Last edited by jade408; 06-07-15 at 11:39 AM.
#52
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On introduction, I thought Gates belts in fully covered drive trains was what would be great..
since chains, in chaincases likely rarely get sufficient oiling..
but the showing off nature of pricy features makes hiding them in a wire and fabric skirt/trouser gard seems unlikely..
since chains, in chaincases likely rarely get sufficient oiling..
but the showing off nature of pricy features makes hiding them in a wire and fabric skirt/trouser gard seems unlikely..
#53
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I ride single track, Myself and the bike get filthy,
I ride my Tour Easy with a chain three times as long as a Wedge bike chain,
I ride my Folding bike with Its big 52 tooth chain ring.
Never even considered chain and gear maintenance a problem or a hassle,
I never get chain lube on me. I Use modern dry lubes, never have performance problems. I go about 4 rides before I clean my MTB chain.
The Tour Easy, as needed, no idea how often..
IG Hubs are cool but for that much money I can give myself a fix of N+1
That's why I stick with chains and cassette's, that's why so many do I think..
N+1= Current number of bikes I own plus the next one ~~~~~
I ride my Tour Easy with a chain three times as long as a Wedge bike chain,
I ride my Folding bike with Its big 52 tooth chain ring.
Never even considered chain and gear maintenance a problem or a hassle,
I never get chain lube on me. I Use modern dry lubes, never have performance problems. I go about 4 rides before I clean my MTB chain.
The Tour Easy, as needed, no idea how often..
IG Hubs are cool but for that much money I can give myself a fix of N+1
That's why I stick with chains and cassette's, that's why so many do I think..
N+1= Current number of bikes I own plus the next one ~~~~~
#54
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I ride single track, Myself and the bike get filthy,
I ride my Tour Easy with a chain three times as long as a Wedge bike chain,
I ride my Folding bike with Its big 52 tooth chain ring.
Never even considered chain and gear maintenance a problem or a hassle,
I never get chain lube on me. I Use modern dry lubes, never have performance problems. I go about 4 rides before I clean my MTB chain.
The Tour Easy, as needed, no idea how often..
IG Hubs are cool but for that much money I can give myself a fix of N+1
That's why I stick with chains and cassette's, that's why so many do I think..
N+1= Current number of bikes I own plus the next one ~~~~~
I ride my Tour Easy with a chain three times as long as a Wedge bike chain,
I ride my Folding bike with Its big 52 tooth chain ring.
Never even considered chain and gear maintenance a problem or a hassle,
I never get chain lube on me. I Use modern dry lubes, never have performance problems. I go about 4 rides before I clean my MTB chain.
The Tour Easy, as needed, no idea how often..
IG Hubs are cool but for that much money I can give myself a fix of N+1
That's why I stick with chains and cassette's, that's why so many do I think..
N+1= Current number of bikes I own plus the next one ~~~~~
What ever method used, if one has a set routine the cleaning/lube is not horribly time-consuming but if all else was equal, why bother? Average rider has zero interest in getting grease under their fingernails. I used to ride 400 km/week in all weather & it wasn't fun to clean bike & chain when it was so cold the rinse water starts to freeze. & now that I only ride about 3 days/week I often will wait out rainy days, mostly just to avoid getting the chain dirty.
& don't many MTBers bust derailleurs in off-road incidents? Modern derailleurs are finicky: indexing requires properly-true dropout hanger & I'm still getting the hang of adjusting SIS since most instructions are poorly-written. Old derailleurs were easier; just set the limit screws.
IGH/belt still pricey of course; I'd love to get a Co-Motion Pangea Rohloff/Gates but at $5,500 how can one leave it locked up outside?
#55
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Well cyclists have different approaches to chain maintenance from the fanatical to the more practical. I use Rock 'n Lube which can be applied generously & then excess wiped to clean/lube in one step. But a bit time consuming to apply/wipe & to me using the stuff as both clean/lube uses more than pre-cleaning chain (degreaser + hose or else scrubbing or soaking in mineral spirits). IE Rock 'n Lube etc can be rather expensive. A racer friend used to use motor oil on the chain; not the ideal lube but he kept the chain spotless (removing/scrubbing in kerosene IIRC) so it ran silky smoothly & quietly.
What ever method used, if one has a set routine the cleaning/lube is not horribly time-consuming but if all else was equal, why bother? Average rider has zero interest in getting grease under their fingernails. I used to ride 400 km/week in all weather & it wasn't fun to clean bike & chain when it was so cold the rinse water starts to freeze. & now that I only ride about 3 days/week I often will wait out rainy days, mostly just to avoid getting the chain dirty.
& don't many MTBers bust derailleurs in off-road incidents? Modern derailleurs are finicky: indexing requires properly-true dropout hanger & I'm still getting the hang of adjusting SIS since most instructions are poorly-written. Old derailleurs were easier; just set the limit screws.
IGH/belt still pricey of course; I'd love to get a Co-Motion Pangea Rohloff/Gates but at $5,500 how can one leave it locked up outside?
What ever method used, if one has a set routine the cleaning/lube is not horribly time-consuming but if all else was equal, why bother? Average rider has zero interest in getting grease under their fingernails. I used to ride 400 km/week in all weather & it wasn't fun to clean bike & chain when it was so cold the rinse water starts to freeze. & now that I only ride about 3 days/week I often will wait out rainy days, mostly just to avoid getting the chain dirty.
& don't many MTBers bust derailleurs in off-road incidents? Modern derailleurs are finicky: indexing requires properly-true dropout hanger & I'm still getting the hang of adjusting SIS since most instructions are poorly-written. Old derailleurs were easier; just set the limit screws.
IGH/belt still pricey of course; I'd love to get a Co-Motion Pangea Rohloff/Gates but at $5,500 how can one leave it locked up outside?
I ride SLX gear, that derailleur can be had for less than $75, Mine shifts perfectly..
$500 derailleurs, well I bet rocks hunt them for sport, roots and vines can destroy one that expensive just by looking at it,,,
#56
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IGH and belts may have a problem penetrating the domestic utility market, where cheapness is valued above goodness.
It should be cost effective for fleet operators such as bikes rentals, esp city-wide operators. Servicing a large fleet of several hundred or thousand bikes is not trivial.
Once people get a taste for oil-free riding they may see the point.
One market where oil-free is a huge advantage is commuter folders used on trains and buses.
It should be cost effective for fleet operators such as bikes rentals, esp city-wide operators. Servicing a large fleet of several hundred or thousand bikes is not trivial.
Once people get a taste for oil-free riding they may see the point.
One market where oil-free is a huge advantage is commuter folders used on trains and buses.
#57
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Two biggest issues with belts;changing gearing and removing/installing. Belts can't be lengthened or shortened,so if you change your pulleys,you generally need a new belt. And you need a special frame for belt drives;with chains,you can use a regular frame with a tensioner. So there's added expense and complication with belts. Love the belt on my Harley,but I've got a belt bike I'm trying to sell because it's not worth putting the money into it to change the gearing.
I ride a fix gear with a dropout that accommodates that 11 tooth change easily (and on the road). And I do not mess with chain length. (Well occasionally at home when I change chainring sizes, but never on the road.)
Yes, the bike needs a chainstay/dropout that can detach or open up to change the belt. If you have a bike you want to retro fit, you could talk to TiCycles about retrofitting it. I don't know what materials they can work with but a simple phone call would answer that one. They build steel and ti belt bikes and have supplied the hardware/technology to other builders as well. (Some of the best framebuilders send their completed but unfinshed frames to TiCycles these dropouts and to have S & S couplers installed. Your frame will be in good hands.)
Ben
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The cheap (and excellent, in my experience) alternative to the belt drive is the Hebie Chainglider. I can't figure out why they're not more widely available in North America. With the current favorable exchange rate, it's cheaper to get one shipped from Germany than to buy from one of the two N. American dealers (in Seattle or Toronto).
#59
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Ben
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From what I have read, rolling up a pant leg is not necessary with a belt drive. I have ridden for 2 summers now without an issue.
#61
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Yes, the bike needs a chainstay/dropout that can detach or open up to change the belt. If you have a bike you want to retro fit, you could talk to TiCycles about retrofitting it. I don't know what materials they can work with but a simple phone call would answer that one. They build steel and ti belt bikes and have supplied the hardware/technology to other builders as well. (Some of the best framebuilders send their completed but unfinshed frames to TiCycles these dropouts and to have S & S couplers installed. Your frame will be in good hands.)
Ben
Ben
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The cheap (and excellent, in my experience) alternative to the belt drive is the Hebie Chainglider. I can't figure out why they're not more widely available in North America. With the current favorable exchange rate, it's cheaper to get one shipped from Germany than to buy from one of the two N. American dealers (in Seattle or Toronto).
But to me IGH & belt-drive go together like bread & butter. Sure, now, most IGH bikes still use chains but I would hesitate to splash out $1K on a Rohloff while still having chain cleaning to do.
#63
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One fast growing potential market - young adults moving into new, high quality but very small modern condos in recently gentrified areas of US cities. A bicycle that is stylish, light, and clean should fit in very well. Costing a couple of k$$s? As an alternative to a car that they have to park; hence real monthly payments for both the car and parking it? That bike could look VERY attractive. Combine that nice one you bring upstairs with the cargo bike you keep in the communal bike stall in the parking garage (that you pay peanuts for as opposed to your car owning neighbors) and you can live a very decent and upscale life car-free.
Ben
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Cycle transport would be further boosted if local gov'ts would remove zoning requirements for apartment buildings etc to include X # of car parking spaces.
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One fast growing potential market - young adults moving into new, high quality but very small modern condos in recently gentrified areas of US cities. A bicycle that is stylish, light, and clean should fit in very well. Costing a couple of k$$s? As an alternative to a car that they have to park; hence real monthly payments for both the car and parking it? That bike could look VERY attractive. Combine that nice one you bring upstairs with the cargo bike you keep in the communal bike stall in the parking garage (that you pay peanuts for as opposed to your car owning neighbors) and you can live a very decent and upscale life car-free.
Ben
Ben
There is definitely a market for attractive bikes though. Attractive and well priced.
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This stuff bugs me. Then why use indexed shifters? I've been commutting on an old bike with plain jane derailleurs and friction shifters and life is just peachy. What problem is all this fanciness trying to solve?
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I still like the belt drive because it is significantly cleaner, quieter, and lower maintenance.
#67
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yea low weight priority is part of the problem , so the crank cog rings break, because weight won over durability.
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Slight drawback over the Chainglider actually resting on the chain; some users say that it adds a small amount of noise & requires chain to be amply-lubed. OTOH chain stays clean so overall it's probably more efficient. Germany has rainy weather so the Chainglider could be a real help. In Germany & Netherlands etc folks ride for transport in all weather including sub-freezing & most don't even bother much with all the protective fancy clothing like US commuters who put on tights/gloves/hats when temperature drops to 10° C.
But to me IGH & belt-drive go together like bread & butter. Sure, now, most IGH bikes still use chains but I would hesitate to splash out $1K on a Rohloff while still having chain cleaning to do.
But to me IGH & belt-drive go together like bread & butter. Sure, now, most IGH bikes still use chains but I would hesitate to splash out $1K on a Rohloff while still having chain cleaning to do.
Sure, if you're spending thousands on a Rohloff, you should definitely go for a belt drive. But for the mass market, most people would be way better served by a 3-speed Sturmey Archer or Nexus and a Chainglider. Cheap, easy, reliable.