NordicElf

I have a 2001 Trek 2300 alloy bike with Ultegra. It has 650c wheels and is a really good fit more me. I'm only 151cm tall, it's a 43cm. I got the bike back in 2001 and rode it for a few years and then took a long break. It's still in good condition.
I'm riding again and looking around at all these awesome carbon bikes, with new technology and I have bike envy. I'm riding a lot and want to spend some money on my cycling. the bike also has a triple chain ring which I hate.
Is it worth getting a new group set, rebuilding the rear wheel, to accomodate an 11 speed, possibly a new fork for a frame that is almost 15 years old?
My options are a carbon bike that either doesn't fit that great or one tht fits ok but has horrible handling because you have to fudge the geometry to make it fit 700c wheels or I mortage my house and go custom (not really an option).
Any ideas? Alternatives I haven't thought of?

vatdim

This is weird, bikepedia says your bike should have a 39/53 crankset and 700c wheels. Did you maybe make some modifications? The components listed on the site look great, I don't really see a great marginal benefit in exchanging them, unless they are in poor condition.

Maybe, if you feel like you want something new, you should get something new. Then, if you don't like it, you'll always be able to return to the older bike with a setup that worked for you in the past.

NordicElf

The bike may have been available in the double crankset 700c but I definitely have a triple 52/42/30 crankset with 650c wheels. Although this is for the 2002 model, the specs are the same except the wheels, Rolf and Trek ended their relationship in Dec 2001 https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...manualTrek.pdf. I've been worrying about handling on a 700c bike with such small dimensions but I'm thinking maybe I should test ride some of them and see how they feel. I don't know if it's a good idea spending so much on such and old frame.

Cross Creek

I built a bike a couple of years ago with a custom frame and chose Ultegra 6500 (9spd) deliberately for it. There's nothing wrong with older tech (especially at the Ultegra and Dura Ace level) drivetrains in good condition. You don't gain anything with 10 or 11spd except more gears in between (like a 16 and 18 cog in between 15, 17, and 19). You can put a double crankset on if you don't like your triple. And Ultegra 6500 double front derailleurs are available in new condition (sometimes still in original packaging) for reasonable prices. I may even be able to come up with one for you from my stash depending on what your seat tube diameter is. You will have to special order or custom build a bike that nice in your size. If I were you, I'd clean your bike up, maybe put a premium chain and new cables on it, and ride. I say premium chain because I installed a Wipperman Connex S9X last week after riding KMC chains for many years, and am amazed at the quiet, smooth operation and shifting it's providing—well worth the money.

ShortLegCyclist

My 2001 Trek 2200 (the model one step down from yours, road double 105, Rolf Vector 700c wheels) is my only current road bike so I was looking at the exact same questions.

If your 2300 has a triple, that is likely an aftermarket modification and is actually quite an expensive one because the stock bike did indeed have a standard road double like mine (53/39).

IMO that adds some value to that bike as a used model if it is otherwise in good shape, because road triples are getting harder to find -- SRAM doesn't even offer a road triple any more at all and I'm not certain even the Ultegra group does, reason has to do with the expense in manufacturing a front triple derailleur versus a double.

You might browse through eBay or Craigslist and see what kind of prices similar models are getting, especially in that harder to find frame size, and if it's worth it, sell the bike.

That bike will have a quill stem like mine does, making upgrading the drop bars to accept modern groupset shifters and brakes problematic and to upgrade even the bottom bracket to modern equipment you would have to go down to the Tiagra level according to my LBS. The Rolf Vector hubs from that era are basically vintage so you would have to get new wheels in order to accommodate a 10 or 11 speed cassette.

In other words, a thorough modernization of that bike is probably cost ineffective so I recommend you sell it and buy a more modern bike.

Having said that, don't fall into the trap of believing that all carbon is definitely better than what you have now... high end carbon sure, but not necessarily entry level. That 2300 was an $1800-2000 bike when new in 2001 dollars, and it was not the entry level in that series (believe the 2100 was). It should have an Icon carbon fork and as you set it rocks Ultegra... but by the way modern Ultegra is far superior to what you have, the derailleur sets get steadily better with each iteration such that it is likely that a modern 105 is also far superior to a 2001 Ultegra group, so upgrading is certainly a worthwhile effort, even if it means a new bike.

The main reason I decided to get a new road bike is that the drop bars of that era are essentially obsolete now, and modern, ergonomic drop bars have a different hood design that is FAR more comfortable -- that alone for my justifies the new bike because the un-ergonomic design of the bars and hoods of that era is the main reason I only have one road bike while I have nearly 20 other types -- hated the drop bars, but it turns out drop bars have come a long way since then, and the quill stem of that era makes upgrading the bars alone unacceptably expensive.

RonH

Why upgrade? My 2001 Litespeed is full Ultegra and after more than 40,000 miles still works for me. Although I really like my 2015 Cannondale SuperSix EVO carbon too. Don't upgrade. Got a second bike.

MRT2

Getting a good fit, especially if you are short, tall, or with unusual proportions is worth something. The shiny new bike feeling goes away eventually, and hopefully gives way to a feeling of being one with your bike. IMO, you should just enjoy the ride until some component or another breaks or starts slowing you down.

fietsbob

Not ready to spend for a handmade to measure custom frame..? Steel is a custom builder's easiest to work with material ..

you can re use the components to save money..




Or a bike friday pocket rocket , the smaller 20" 451 sized make fit even easier.

and there is a lot of other benefits of a built to order bike that can fit in a suitcase to bring it along..

bmthom.gis

If you don't like the triple, you can put a compact or full double on your bike. That's easy. Finding a carbon fork may not be as easy (or cheap), but I am sure they are out there without looking too hard. The cost of a new drivetrain though is silly, especially if you want to stay at the Ultegra level. That puts you on the hook somewhere between $800-$1,000 (the only bonus is you wouldn't have to get a double crank). Couple that with a carbon fork and you may as well start looking for a new bike (especially if you take it to a shop for the install), because in the end you still have a 15 year old bike frame (which there is absolutely nothing wrong with that) that you just spent well over 1 grand on.

That doesn't factor in if you really want new wheels. Not sure how a 700C will fit. If it does, I suspect you may also need new brakes depending on the reach of your current ones. Also, that 11 sp stuff is expensive...I'll take 9 or 10 speed stuff over it any day of the week. You don't get any higher or lower gear ranges, just more in between gears. If you are really want to spend some money, maybe start with a new wheel set and a compact double. That should breath new life into your bike.

Cross Creek

I disagree with the notion that newer Ultegra derailleurs (6600-6800) function better than 6500—Ultegra is really good stuff and always has been. You'd need a new rear derailleur and rear hub for 11spd and obviously new shifters for either 10 or 11spd, but don't expect earth-shattering differences in performance. As far as replacing the quill stem (if that's even what you have) and drop bars with 26mm clamp diameter, that's easily done with a quill stem adaptor and a stem with 31.8mm clamp. If your current fork is threadless, you'd only need the new stem (and only then if you don't like your current bars and what you want isn't available in 26mm clamp diameter).

70sSanO

Since I ride bikes with fewer gears, you can take what I say with a grain of salt. IMO, the real reason to go with more gears is to get more range or fill in gaps that are causing issues in how well you can ride... comfort, speed, etc.

Also, IMO the main reason to change a frame is to improve the fit, ride, performance, etc. over what you currently ride. As already mentioned whatever you buy will be old technology one day and what you will be left with needs to be better than what you currently ride.

But you need to access your current bike and honestly list what needs to change and either buy a frame with the same (very close) geometry and figure out what parts you can move some parts and what has to be upgraded.

You may end up be better off buying a new bike, but them again you may just want to swap out your current cranks and upgrade a few things.

John

NordicElf

So technically, I probably only need to get a double crankset - apparently those Ultegra 9 speed shifters support double and triples. I used Sheldon Browns gear calculator Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator and worked out I could get a few higher and lower gears with an 11 speed 11-32t cassette. But the minute I add that casette, I need new shifters, new rear wheel, derallieurs, chain. I rely quite heavily on my granny-granny. I think I might suffer if I just go to double without adding more low gears in the back. And since checking it out those easier gears are looking more and more appealing...
Also it feels like the shifters are worn - sometimes they don't catch, had 2 lbs look at them and no one knows or seems to concerned.
650c wheels are like hens teeth, except if you want HED or Zipp. Rebuilding my ancient Rolf Vector Comps seems like a real waste. But I don't feel like I have 2 many options there. I did see I could Mavic rims for 650c.
Been pouring over frame geometry articles and for tiny people like me. 650c seems the right way to go.
I guess I don't mind spending $1000 on the bike, if it's worth spending. A new bike is going to cost way more than that and I sincerely doubt I'm going to find such a good fit. I have no idea how much a custom frame costs...

How long do frames last? Do you think it will last me another 15 years? I weigh between 50-55kgs.

BTW. I don't have a quill stem and Trek offered this bike standard as one of their offerings. (I can't find any proof though!)
I'm in South Africa. So thanks for the offer to help me out with stuff but probably too much trouble!

fietsbob

Trek, the company, backs the original buyer against Frame material & workmanship problems with out a time limit.

bmthom.gis

If you want more range on the lower end, maybe go for an XT rear derailleur and a mountain bike cassette. My commuter is set up that way (also has a "triple" front shifter on a compact double crank). I run 2x9 and it is a pretty good ride IMO. Shifters are Ultegra and DA (yeah, they don't match but whatever...parts bin goodies for free). Front derailleurs aren't indexed so it is just a matter of your set screws. If having shifting issues, maybe it is time for new cables and housing. At 1k, you are at or over 1/2 way to a decent carbon bike with 105. It might be worth trying out a 48 cm frame, as geometries change in 15 years. You might surprise yourself there.

I wager you will never see your frame go bad. Heck, I'm riding 30+ year old bikes and they work quite well!

Cross Creek

If your frame can support it, you'll find a lot more wheels in either 26 inch MTB (5.5mm shorter) or 650B (6.5mm taller). Chances are, one of the two or maybe both will fit your brake reach and frame/fork, and wouldn't affect stand over or bottom bracket height by much either way. There are many more options for tires for either of those than for 650C, but width may be an issue. The smallest 650B road tire that comes to mind is 32mm. I think the situation is similar with 26MTB, but am not so familiar with them. There are wider road tires available for both, but you may be limited by your frame and/or brake calipers to a maximum of 32's. While intended for touring and randonneuring, there are some fast, road-racing capable tires at that width.

I just recalled that your frame is aluminum. Your dropouts are likely spaced at 130mm. Since 11spd hubs are 135mm, you may not be able to take that option without damaging your rear stays. Also, Ultegra RD 6500 takes a max cog of 28. I have pushed mine to 30, but that was the limit. Your 11-32 11spd cluster idea may not work on that count either, leaving you with the options of keeping your triple crankset or getting a (sub) compact double 46/30 or close to it. The good news is that your triple FD will likely function well with a compact double like that.

Retro Grouch 

Absolutely! You sound to me like the classic case for upgrading your existing bike frame because you are relatively short and you have a frame that you like.

Figure out what gears you need and decide if a 53/39 double or a 50/34 compact double fits your needs better with the 650c wheels. 2001 Ultegra says pretty nice 9-speed stuff to me. That means the front shifter is double/triple compatable. I'm thinking 11-speed would be spending a LOT of money for a relatively marginal benefit.

Drew Eckhardt 

Sure. You'll keep the same great fit and come out ahead financially as long as you buy new parts from an online UK retailer.

I've been riding the same Lynskey built Litespeed frame since 1997.

I spent $600 upgrading to 10 cogs with Record Titanium derailleurs and Centaur Carbon Ultrashift levers versus over $4500 for a comparable new bike. Moving to 9 cost me less than $300 in 2000 versus over $2500 buying everything new.

Drew Eckhardt 

Indefinitely.

Sure.

NormanF

I'd sell it and get a new gravel road/adventure bike.

Its not worth putting money into upgrading an old bike when a new bike will give you a lot more.

Look at alloy and steel bikes. You don't have to mortgage your home to get on a new bike.

Bandera

The most important characteristic of a bike is not it's age, frame material, components or even color: Does it Fit?
A tiny person indeed has a very difficult time getting a good fit, your bike is a rare one in that regard and a "modern" replacement very rare indeed.

I still ride a 23 year old frameset that I upgraded the worn drivetrain on to my current requirements.
I like the fit and the way it rides, a good project and worth every $.
There is no need to replace a fork that is in good shape, particularly a rare design.

-Bandera

VegasTriker

If you want to stick with 650c wheels, take a look at Handspun Series 4. I bought a similar wheel but using Velocity Aeroheat 700C rim. I love it. Have over 7,000 miles on the wheel so far. Mine was a rear selling for $200 with free shipping from Niagara Cycle. Here's a link to a different sellers Handspun Sport Series 4 Front Wheel 650C Bikewagon Handspun Sport Series 4 Rear Wheel Shimano 105-5700 32 Black Mavic Open Pro 650c

NukiWaza

Stupid question, I know that on motorcycles the teeth get chewed up over the miles. Soooo how can you have 40,000 miles on non-upgraded gears?

Not it being a smart ass, just ignorant.

Cross Creek

People usually call it upgrading when they change to a newer group, or go from 9spd to 10spd, for instance. Cassettes, chains, and, at much greater intervals, chainrings must be replaced over thousands of miles of wear, but that's just routine maintenance. Derailleurs on road bikes can and do last for many tens of thousands of miles with perhaps replaced jockey wheels when bearings go. Off road riding tends to wear gear out or break it much sooner, however.

CycleryNorth81

I don't get the OP's logic. He wants to remove one chainwheel from the front and add two gears to the back. Does he want more gears or less?

MRT2

All OP said was, he or she hates the front triple. Didn't say why. FWIW, I rather like triples. I know they are somewhat out of fashion.