szotyori.adam

Hi!

I’m planning to buy my firs road bike for commuting (aprox. 2x15 km (2x10 mi) on flat terrain.

I have a very limited budget 640 EUR (720 USD).
I should get a new bike with aluminum frame, like the BTWIN Triban 500 or 520, or a vintage bike with steel frame?

I think that the steel bike would be cheaper to buy, but the final cost, after the restoration could be over my budget. Keeping in mind, that I have no special tools and enough knowledge.

How bad is the quality of a cheap bike? What about the planned obsolescence of the modern products?

Links to the BTWIN bikes:
Triban 500 Road Bike - Black - | Decathlon
Triban 520 Road Bike, Sora - Black/Red - | Decathlon

mrv 

I've done both (sort of)
- Built up a $25USD Nishiki into a ..... commuter / light tourer / gravel grinder / whatever - between parts laying around and new parts, I spend $600.

- Also spent $800 on a slightly used aluminum KONA Jake the Snake. With all the new bottom bracket sizes, time limited carbon fiber, compatibility issues between bars and stems and forks and seat posts and wheel widths and brifter-indexing / 8/9/10/11 spd cassettes - GAH!!!

I can see why you might want to go old school simple. There still quill stem / bar diameter and seat post diameters to worry about. But going with simple shifters you can run in friction, then run whatever cassette - that's very appealing. A steel frame so you can run different width rear wheels (within reason!) - very appealing. So you can see I'm biased toward the old steel frame. If you can wrench and are in no rush, you can build it up with used bits that you like.

my two shillings worth.

obed7

if you have no wrenching experience, it is likely that you simply do not enjoy wrenching...
and if this is your first bike you may not really have a grasp on proper fitting...
these are online purchases you are considering?
Have you been to a local bike shop and see what they have to offer?

ypsetihw

how "bad" is a cheap bike is a loaded question. a wal-mart bike compared to anything made by a real manufacturer is basically garbage. but you can get a lot of miles on a wal-mart bike for $100. honestly 20 miles a day is about 100 miles a week, not counting any training or long weekend rides, so you'll be at 150 miles a week in no time, and that's quite a bit for the average person out there. if you cheap out you will want a new bike in 2 months if you stick with it. go test ride some bikes at a local LBS, maybe buy something that sort of fits on craigslist and learn to fit a bike and wrench on that. when you're ready you can then buy something online in the $800-1000 range and get awesome bang for your buck, plus you will know how to work on it yourself. that's what worked for me anyway.

FrenchFit 

I and my older kids commuted on old Miyatas, '72 Racer, '89 Alumicross, '84 710, for some 4 years. They didn't have much wrenching experience and would drop into an LBS if they had a problem; and they also commuted in rain and snow and locked the bikes outside most of the time. All three bikes were around a $500 total initial investment, and I likely put another $500 into new tires and tubes, saddles and bits and pieces.

Of course, 10 years ago it was easier to find quality old bikes for very little money. And, I knew what I was buying and did the initial set-ups, greasing, etc. Frankly, looking aroudn the LBS store these days, and bikedirect, there are so many inexpensive bikes that seem totally suitable I'm not sure I would try the vintage bike route again for my kids.

Note: The 710 and Alumicross were pretty much toast after 4-5 years, they died an honorable death. I still ride the 'Racer', great bike.

09box

That blue nishiki is marvelous looking!

MZilliox

Oh the bike you can buy vintage for 700US. You would never do as well brand new and modern. all my bikes have been under this mark, 1999 serotta CRT, 90s Berthoud, and 1970 Mercian, and I'd put each one up against any modern store bought 700 dollar bike.
Only problem is you need to know what to look for...

VegasTriker

I looked at the two links you provided and was very surprised to find a weight listed for the medium frames on both bikes. These are very different from the cheap bikes sold by mass merchandisers here in the US which have a lot of garbage accessories that make the bikes very heavy. The cheaper one (10.9 kg 24 lbs) would be my choice because it uses Microshift drive components versus Shimano Sora on the more expensive one. I refurbish a lot of bikes for kids in my Scout troop and rarely find anything this light in an older bike at a price the kids can afford. If you are very lucky with the choice of an older bike it often requires replacing the tires and brake pads both of which can be very inexpensive to replace but if you don't know a good bike from a clunker, I'd suggest buying the new bike.

BTW, take the time to learn basic mechanics and accumulate the most necessary tools over time as you need them. Many tools will last a lifetime and save you money over and over. Two sources for learning basic bike repair are Park Tool Company and Sheldon Brown's website.
Park Tool Co. Articles About Bicycle Repair You can also find thousands of videos on YouTube by just googling on the name of the bike repair or maintenance.

WheelNut2

Check your local shops. You might be able to find something like a Giant Defy 5 which should be very close to your budget. I have two bikes: One with Shimano Claris (triple) and one with Shimano Sora (compact) and they are both great. Sora in particular is a great starting point, but Claris has good feel too. So, dig around and see if you can find something either on sale, or just a base model that is close. Check the used markets of course. Eventually you can find a good deal, even it takes a weeks and weeks. I found a great 2008 Trek with a Carbon frame for about $220USD for a friend of mine a couple months ago. A vintage frame is great if you can work on the bike and such, but if you aren't mechanically inclined I would say don't bother.

Wilfred Laurier

I was impressed by the two bikes linked. However, finding a bike that fits is more important than frame material or shifter manufacturer.

BobbyG

Why does it have to be a vintage bike that needs restoration? Why not a slightly used bike in good shape? I don't have enough information about your situation (is this your only bike? Where will you ride,on what roads? What is crime like in your area. What about when it rains?) But I will offer three suggestions as a serious bike commuter for almost 25 years. One) reliability is what's most important to me...especially when I had only one bike. Whether that means new, or a well maintained used bike it doesn't matter. A derailiuer that can't be adjusted, or rim brakes that never hold adjustment, or wheels that won't stay true, will kill the joy of bike commuting fast! Two)Whatever your budget is, shoot for less to allow for accessories you never knew you needed, like lights, bells, horns, bags, racks, fenders, mirrors. You may decide you don't want or need these, but if your commute is in heavy traffic, or at night or in the wet, you may decide otherwise. Three) Start exploring Bikeforums' commuter forum. I've been bike riding for over 40 years, and commuting for almost 25 years and discovering bikeforums.net was the best thing that ever happened to me bike-wise. I found great advice from people with nothing to sell, and a very positive, helpful online community...almost always. So welcome to bikeforums, be smart, be safe and have fun!

ypsetihw

nashbar nashbar nashbar. end of thread.

szotyori.adam

Thank you all for the responses. I’ll try to reply for everyone:

This would be my only bike which will be used only in dry weather. The bicycle theft rate is high.
I’m mechanically inclined, just simply I don’t have tools and enough spare time. What are the essential tools for disassembly and reassembly a bike?
In the vintage bike segment I’m looking for Italian bikes (ex. Bianchi, Basso) with Columbus tubing (preferably a butted tubing). If I buy a vintage bike, I would make a new paint job, change the groupset (maybe a pre 2001 Campagnolo set + brifters), saddle, tiers etc.
If I’m lucky I could get a bike for 300 USD and a groupset for 300 USD.
I have found a brand new (with 0 mi(km) ) vintage titan bike from 1985 for 450 USD
https://www.maxi-bike.hu/sites/defaul...p/SAM_0300.JPG

A few good articles about the BTWIN Triban 520 bike:
B'Twin unveils brand new Triban 520 and 540 road bikes | road.cc
Just in: B'Twin Triban 520 | road.cc
B'Twin Triban 520 review | road.cc

Why should I get the microshift instead of the Shimano SORA?

D1andonlyDman

This^. All of my bikes are older, and I bought two of them recently, each for well under $700 US. I got a Trek Y-Foil carbon bike, with 9x2-speed Dura Ace that was fully built and needed only minor tweaking, for under $500. After changing the seat and rear wheel, I was still only at $700. I also bought and built up myself a Schwinn Paramount PDG Series 7 steel bike, that I built myself with a 9x3 mixed modern drivetrain. This whole build cost me under $500. Both of these bikes blow away anything you could buy new for $800.

fietsbob

rather ride or wrench as the 1st thing you do?

Lil Bear

You asked a question that has no right answer, but I will answer it, and then ramble on. The answer is yes.

I have a very strong preference for steel frames, so my opinion on steel -vs- aluminum is biased. However, riding and parking daily in an area where theft is a thing... I would shy away from something as pretty as those Btwins. The best bike might be ergonomically comfortable, mechanically sound, and aesthetically unpleasant. If your terrain is relatively flat, weight becomes less of an issue. That opens up options enormously. I don't think you need to spend anywhere near $700 to get a great bike for your purpose, whether it be new or used. Find a bike mechanic, bring a 6-pack, and ask questions.

Blue Belly

I wouldn't buy a new bike under $700. Especially since you can get so much for that price in the used market. The list of needed tools could just about go on forever. Bike coops are probably good for this, if you have one near. I see plenty of bikes in the 500-600 range that may need nothing more than a new set of tires/tubes & maybe something simple like a chain.

szotyori.adam

[h=3]Tomorrow I’ll go to see this bike, maybe to buy it. It is a Kenzel Calibre 500 with shimano RSX brifters and brakes, shimano Sora front derailleur, and shimano 2300 rear derailleur. The wheels looks like Dura Ace C50, but I think it’s fake. Especially for this price (385 USD). It is one or two year old, with 5000 km. The frame size is 58, but I’m 6’3. Will it fit me?


Please, do you have any recommendation or advice?
[/h]

Maelochs

I believe RSX shifters are the last rebuildable Shimano brifters ... 2300 and Sora are one and two steps up---nothing great, but should all be reliable. Looks like it is in good shape but who can tell from pictures?

Whether it will fit you, only you can say. Everyone is proportioned differently. Looks like he has the seat pointed way down ... maybe the frame was to big for the guy, or the bars too low? The bars are pretty low, so if you don't want to ride fully bent over you might need to flip the stem or buy a new one.

Bike measurements in these days of sloping top tubes could mean anything. He has a lot of seatpost exposed already ... depends how much is left in the seat tube, as to whether you could raise it more if your legs are longer (or you could by a longer one.) That would increase the seat-to-bars drop though.

Kenzel's site doesn't say much (a least the English site doesn't--is it Slovakian?) No idea what it cost new, but it's weight is listed at 10.6 kg ... probably 11 for a 58 cm which is still good.

No idea about the market where you live, or how eager you are to buy. If it was me I might wait for a really amazing deal, but I might have to wait for months. If you want a bike soon, that one looks fine--on the Internet. In real life, who knows? Spin the wheels, shift the gears, make sure everything looks straight, take it for a short ride, and good luck. Offer him $300, settle at $350, might be a great ride.

If theft is an issue in your area, get a good lock---and Not a cable with a built-in lock. Maybe a cable and a real padlock.

At that price, if you didn't like it after a couple months you could sell it for minimal loss and have plenty of money to buy a different bike, and still buy the necessary accessories.

szotyori.adam

Thank you for your response! Unfortunately the appointment was postponed. The new bike it’s in the price range of the BTWIN Triban 520 (link in the first post). The Kenzel has lower quality groupset and an alloy fork, but a nicer frame geometry and internally routed cables at the top tube. Although I don’t know if it is made out of 6061-0 (or else) or 6061-T6, like the Triban 520. The Kenzel (Slovakian brand) comes with a one year warranty, while the Triban 520 with a lifetime warranty.

For this price I can find 10-20 years old aluminum frames or vintage steel bikes. So I think it’s a good price for the bike if everything is ok. Even if the wheelset is fake. I think it’s fake because the valve is in the wrong position. However my strongest argument for this bike was the wheel.

TroN0074

I wouldn't put a steel vintage frame through the torture of winter, so an Aluminum frame would be preferred if it were me.
@mrv Those projects you have done looks awesome, I would love to add mid fork bosses for a front rack on my commuter too.

Maelochs

@mrv---I see you have a Raleigh frame that looks like it doesn't have a derailleur hanger---maybe used one of those derailleurs which fits over the axle? If so, could you recommend a decent derailleur? I have a similar frame I was going to discard because I wasn't sure it was worth building ... if I could get decent running gear I would love to tackle it.

Sorry to hijack the thread ... but not really.

@OP---I don't think a steel frame would suffer unduly in winter. Keep it clean, check for paint chips and wear, clean them up and cover them, and the frame should handle winter no problem. Water wouldn't be a big deal, and if it is snow enough for road salt, likely you wouldn't be riding.

mrv 

- I'd be nervous about counterfeit carbon stuff, like wheels, if you think they are. Size-wize, I ride a 58 or 60cm frame. I'm a smidge under 6ft with kind of Neanderthal arms. So I'm partial to a longish top tube (or was before going more up right and touring / commuter). I'd think at 6'3", 58cm would be too small.
@TroN0074 - thanks!
@Maelochs - i think the Raleigh was a 3-speed cruiser. I picked up only the frame. I've not used an axle mount derailleur before. So no recommendations there. At the moment, I'm a bit fixated on setting up something with an internal geared hub (IGH). I'd REALLY like to find an old touring frame/fork that needs a second life, build it up with 650b wheels, front dyno / rear IGH (9spd SHIMANO, maybe?). I might start with the Peugeot in the photos. Or that Peugeot may go be a college bike with my kid. Not sure yet.

Cheers!

Wilfred Laurier

A basic Shimano derailleur like a Sora or Alivio or Deore is generally extremely good value for the money. You need to get a derailleur mounting 'claw'. Ask for one at the LBS and they will know what you mean. If they don't know what they mean, find a different LBS.

bmthom.gis

With that budget, you don't necessarily have to go vintage, but you can probably find used from the past 5-10 years (or even less). But, take a look at entry level bikes from a shop in your area, I bet you can find something close to what your budget allows. The nice thing about entry level bikes is that they usually have mounts for fenders and racks. I miss my first road bike, a Trek 1.5 for that reason (would have made a pretty good commuter), but I had to sell it to pay for my current road bike.
If you really are set on vintage, that kind of budget could get you one sweet vintage ride. The nice thing is that at that price point, someone probably went through the trouble to restore it to ridable condition (if it ever wasn't in that condition - bike flippers aren't the only ones who sell vintage bikes). If you stay with friction shifting, there really is very little to go wrong, other than regreasing the hubs, bottom bracket and headset. I wouldn't be worried about a junker if you are willing to spend more than $250 on some vintage steel.