MRT2

You sure about that? According to an online sizing guide I just looked at, at 5'10 1/2', you are not between sizes, but squarely in the large size.

MRT2

Size Guide

Maelochs

In general ... a smaller frame can be stretched by use of a longer seatpost, more setback, a longer stem, and more spacers under the stem (unless you cut the steerer tube too short .... ) But there is no way to make a too-large frame smaller.

I ride a 50 cm frame with a ton of spacers, ten inches of seatpost, and a ski-jump stem and it is super comfortable. (Just got back from a

I also ride a 58-cm frame with a a short, flat stem, a few inches of seatpost, and smaller bars and it is super comfortable. I have a 61 cm frame with a short seatpost and stem, but it is hard to get comfortable ... it might be just a centimeter or two too long. But here is nowhere to cut out length unless I saw through the top tube.

That is why people suggest buying a little small instead of a little large.

if you get a bike which is too small and are hunched over, you need a longer and more angled stem, more spacers, and more seatpost setback. if I can fit well on a 50-cm bike when I am 185 cm tall .... it ain't pretty but it is very comfortable.

fietsbob

The designer sorts out the handling You just pick the size : I'D guess a 56/57 since you are in the Road bike Niche..

And about the same height as I was 25 years ago. we get shorter with age..

Sloping Top tubes are the thing now look for a 565 or 57 top tube.. change stems , that's easy to Do.

Trail is steering geometry .. Contact Patch, 'Pneumatic trail' is how a fat Tire feels different than a skinny one
even if the measured trail is equal

Stephen105

When I started my research last month I came across that fit guide and thought the same " large frame " . But when I actually went into a few different shops here in nyc ( Bicycle Habitat , Gotham , Sids ) they all seem to concur that I could get away with either or . I did notice that when I stood over the large frame sirrus that there was no real clearance between top tube and the beans and franks but not so much that it was pressing on them . Medium frame had a couple of inches clearance which I think would save me some grief if I had to quick stop and land on feet . I reckon that fit chart is just a round about . Thanks

StanSeven

It was for quite a few years. It came out in the mid 80s as their entry/mid level road/racing bike. They kept it in some similar form for almost ten years. Then there were multiple variations and models before it became a hybrid.

MRT2

I have zero stand over clearance on my current bike. As to your thought that a few extra inches of standover clearance might save your boys in an emergency maneuver, think again. The last thing you want to do if you are out of control and can't stop is to take one or both feet off the pedals and try to stop that way.

Maelochs

Everybody has a different body. "Sizing Guides" that say things like "Our medium frame suits riders between 5'7" and 5'11" tall" are totally worthless, because a person could have a 32" inseam at either of those heights ... which means the arms and torso would be radically different in proportion, and the same bike would not fit all those people.

Not sure if this has been posted yet but it is a really good place to start: Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist

Plug in the numbers and it will give you a pretty precise set of dimensions which you can then compare to the geometry charts on various manufacturers' websites. And even then ... what "fits" is what feels like it fits---after about two hours. Ten minutes in a parking lot, you might as well not bother.

The good thing is, once you get a bike set up to suit you, you can transfer the cockpit dimensions to just about any bike. That's how I have a large Raleigh and a small Dawes and can ride both with pleasure and joy---pedals to seat, seat to bars, seat setback, and reach are all about the same, and the rest is close enough that the varuations are interesting and not uncomfortable.

MRT2

Exactly right.

MRT2

That is true. And if you snag a used bike that is too small and that is all you can afford, or if you are a very tall person already on the largest mass produced frame you can find and don't want to go the custom frame route, then by all means, make it work.

But if you are talking about taking a brand new bike and putting a super long seatpost, a stack of spacers and a long tall stem just to make a too small frame fit, then just go to the next size up.

We are all just guessing. If OP has long legs and a short torso, relatively speaking, the smaller bike might make sense. If he has short legs and a longer torso, he should go with the larger bike.

Stephen105

yes of course but like I said " if I had to quick stop and land on feet " , not that I want to

Ball Bearing

The suitable size depends on your Ape Index - I ride a couple of bikes that are too large according to most sizing charts, but because of my AI it's no problem.

https://averagejoecyclist.com/bike-frame-size-guide-2/

chaadster

Whether it's new or used makes no difference to how one's body relates to the geometry, though, so "just go one size up" is not sound advice. At least for me, sacrificing performance for aesthetics makes no sense, though I admit I like the look of a long post, and am not averse to spacers even though I do think a slammed stem looks boss if the head tube isn't a mile-long monstrosity. That bull-headed look is the worst, exemplified in the Look 675.

ironwood

About half the posts on this thread are wrong; but I don't know which. Some say larger some say smaller. You may as well flip a coin as to listen to advice here. (That might include my advice as well.)

A few years ago, Grant Petersen said most bikes sold in America do not fit the rider properly. Maybe you can find it on the Rivendell site.

A new bike should fit like a glove. Remember the immortal words of Johnny Cochran, "If it doesn't fit, you must acquit.".

DorkDisk

A vote for smaller on compact frames as it maximizes the advantages of compact frames: lighter, stiffer, and longer seatpost for compliance. Personally, I find smaller frames easier to "manhandle" and more fun for aggressive riding.

Little standover is fine on level ground but any of bit variance in terrain will quickly show the advantages of lower standover

StanSeven

And using Grant Peterson is wrong unless you look for a laugh.

Maelochs

A lady's silk evening glove or a catcher's mitt? I strongly suggest using the fit calculator I posted above.

"Size larger" or "Size smaller" are both exceedingly general, which is why I posted the calculator link. (https://www.competitivecyclist.com/St...55963_ba96eb0a)

Please note, however, that even the "size larger" guy explained that only if the frame is ridiculously too small should one size up. As noted, a Slightly too small frame is better than a Slightly too large frame, because the smallness can be offset by parts more easily than excessive largeness can. (which was the original premise, not that that matters.) The "Size larger" guy is right that if a frame is obviously too small and a larger frame is available, then yes, do the obvious thing. Same if it is obviously too large. But when it is not so obvious ... then what?

I Again suggest the size calculator I linked to above. Instead of trying to pick between Internet arguments, get some numbers and go from there.

Also, though ... One reason "most bikes sold in America do not fit the rider properly" is because most bikes are sold by Wal-Mart or Costco, some by Sears, and because A.) The buyer has no clue what "fit properly"means and

B.) The store (even some LBSs) will sell the nearest thing they have, because they want the sale more than they care about the customer (after all, most LBS sales are low-end cruisers which will never be ridden over 10 mph and will spend the vast majority of their lives as garage obstacles) and

C.) Many riders simply do not care about what we would call "proper fit." I see a ton of people riding (usually on rigid "trail" bikes or hybrids) with the saddle too low, but I know that is because they put most of their weight on the seat and do not Want to get full leg extension---they are riding to work and back because they cannot afford a car or have DUIs or whatever, (or are older folk tooling around the neighborhood,) and are not interested in efficiency ... they think the lower seat is comfortable, and for the short rides they do, it probably is.

Also, a lot of bikes i see are cheap 'urban assault" bikes or BMX-style bikes which kids buy purely for style. They cannot pedal from the seat and don't try to ... they stand and pedal a short distance, then sit and coast. So long as their peers think they look cool, they couldn't care about what spandex-clad fat men think.

When I go to spin class I see how most new people set up their bikes---short stroke/low saddle, because for people with weak legs who are used to sitting down, that is the most comfortable posture. And that is what most new riders and most bike buyers seek.

There are some people who really want to ride, who want to put down a little power and who want to get fitted properly so they can ride properly ... and those folks are more likely to put in a little research and learn a little ... which is one more reason I link to that fit calculator.

Screw my opinion and everyone else's ... do the measurements and then have what you need to make a Rational, Informed decision.

chaadster

You should be able to reason your way through this if you have the understanding that fitting "up and out" to accommodate a smaller frame is not only practically unlimited but can offer advantages over fitting a too-large frame "down and in."

So unless you don't value having adjustment options, I cannot figure how you're having difficulty figuring which approach is correct.

Stephen105

You Never let the bike out of your sight . When i ride solo and have to use a public restroom the bike comes in with me , when I eat I eat from food carts . I have locked up older bikes up in the past and haven't had a problem if it's done properly although I did have a saddle and seat post stolen ( which is pretty common ) about 5 years ago . Hal Ruzal who is a well known character in NYC bike culture and the top bike mechanic for Bicycle Habitat on Lafayette st since the 70’s has some very informative and entertaining videos on YouTube where he goes around city grading bikes on how they are locked up, check them out .