New Rider - Looking for some advise/direction
#26
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Thanks a lot for everyone who took time to give me so much information! I completely agree and I am planning to go to dicks and performance bike in our neighborhood this weekend. I just got very overwhelmed with all the technical details. I called another local bike store and the manager was much more friendlier. He gave me few options merax finiss 21 speed, Schwinn phocus 1400 and Giordano libero 1.6 all under $500 to start with. I have to still go check it out but looking on Amazon the pricing atleast doesn't overwhelm me. I am looking on CL also. Thanks again and appreciate the advice!
Performance might have some closeout prices on last years models, so check those out...again you'll get more for your money buying used.
#27
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A road bike might be good for someone like you that's serious about regular exercise. Your $500 budget is probably a little low.
190 pounds will work fine with any bike you see.
Go try a test ride on a road bike, they are surprisingly comfortable and easy to ride.
Road bikes:
Fast, hard rides
Long endurance rides
Group rides keep me interested and can be a blast. I have to ride regularly to stay in shape for the group rides, it's good motivation for me.
A "5 mile loop" is quite short for a road bike ride! More like 15, 25, or 40+ miles.
Mountain bikes:
trail riding, but that often means planning a trip to the trails.
Street riding in the city with slick tires. Ride over anything! But not good for group rides (usually too slow), and slower than a road bike. Kind of fun in stop-and-go city streets.
Hybrids:
more aimed at casual riders?
usually for shorter rides
Gravel bikes
a road bike that has enough frame space to fit larger tires for gravel roads, or uses regular road bike tires for general riding. Some areas have lots of interesting gravel roads, but near many cities, they aren't nearby to ride regularly.
reasonable for regular road riding, too.
190 pounds will work fine with any bike you see.
Go try a test ride on a road bike, they are surprisingly comfortable and easy to ride.
Road bikes:
Fast, hard rides
Long endurance rides
Group rides keep me interested and can be a blast. I have to ride regularly to stay in shape for the group rides, it's good motivation for me.
A "5 mile loop" is quite short for a road bike ride! More like 15, 25, or 40+ miles.
Mountain bikes:
trail riding, but that often means planning a trip to the trails.
Street riding in the city with slick tires. Ride over anything! But not good for group rides (usually too slow), and slower than a road bike. Kind of fun in stop-and-go city streets.
Hybrids:
more aimed at casual riders?
usually for shorter rides
Gravel bikes
a road bike that has enough frame space to fit larger tires for gravel roads, or uses regular road bike tires for general riding. Some areas have lots of interesting gravel roads, but near many cities, they aren't nearby to ride regularly.
reasonable for regular road riding, too.
#28
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Just a heads up, if you are heading to Dicks and are considering a bike jersey, the had a pile on clearance for $9.97 when I was in my local one yesterday, in bright orange and white without any sort of logos. I personally really like the back pockets that jerseys offer, but if that isn't a concern to you any sort of golf polo or athletic shirt works just as well! My helmet is from a local Wal-Mart type chain, I think I paid $18 and it is surprisingly comfortable, and until recently I also just wore unpadded gym shorts (and still don't see much benefit from the padded shorts I got to try out). They also had quite a few options for cycling pants and shorts on cheap clearance.
#29
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The problem with hybrid bikes is that most people with those bikes move into road bikes within a year or two after purchasing one. I think instead of a hybrid if a person wants something like that is to get a cross bike instead because then you have the ability to slap on skinny tires and rims and play roadie or slap on wider tires and rims and play in the gravel and dirt, plus if you ever get the hankering you could use a cross bike for touring.
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I'm an advocate of using a good LBS for a new rider. A really good one will sell you what they believe you actually need and will full refund or credit exchange within 30 days. The only gear you actually starter need, imo, is a helmet. The rest can come later. If you're tentative about sticking with this you can get into a quality brand entry level bike for $600 or a bit less. But you can outgrow that quickly. If you know you're gonna be serious I like something a bit more upscale endurance road such as a Cannondale Synapse. That cwuld serve well either forever or, certainly, until you really get into cycling and develop more focus. One other bit...stock saddles at entry level tend to be a literal pita....don't let that deter you, it's a fixable issue
#31
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The only bike that Dicks has that's worth considering at your price is this one: Diamondback Adult Haanjo Metro Road Bike | DICK'S Sporting Goods This one is the most highly rated in reviews for the price, but it is a new bike, you won't get as good of a bike as you could buying used, but if you're leery of buying used then that Diamondback is the way to go.
Performance might have some closeout prices on last years models, so check those out...again you'll get more for your money buying used.
Performance might have some closeout prices on last years models, so check those out...again you'll get more for your money buying used.
#32
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#33
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If you're just starting out, why not start with an upright city bike with a wide gearing range and high-volume tires like the Trek Shift 2/Raleigh Venture 4.0/Giant Sedona DX to feel your way into the sport? If you commit to riding long and often, by late summer you'll be ready for a fast hybrid or even a road bike.
Here's my 0.02's worth of advice:
1. Don't pedal with your hips! Learn to use the proper gearing to keep your cadence somewhere between 50 and 80 rpm with slight to moderate resistance. Keep your body steady on the saddle and use only your leg muscles, not your hips.
2. This is the most important thing - Keep the ball your foot - the widest part - on top of the pedal's axle. Use toe clips if you have to. A quick Google search should render plenty of information and images about proper foot positioning.
3. Don't spread out your knees. Keep them pointed straight ahead and close to the frame.
Good luck!
Here's my 0.02's worth of advice:
1. Don't pedal with your hips! Learn to use the proper gearing to keep your cadence somewhere between 50 and 80 rpm with slight to moderate resistance. Keep your body steady on the saddle and use only your leg muscles, not your hips.
2. This is the most important thing - Keep the ball your foot - the widest part - on top of the pedal's axle. Use toe clips if you have to. A quick Google search should render plenty of information and images about proper foot positioning.
3. Don't spread out your knees. Keep them pointed straight ahead and close to the frame.
Good luck!
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All the Dicks by me have bike service. The reason I tossed it up there with REI and Performance is the bikes I've looked at there seemingly have standard components serviceable anywhere, opposed to the XX-Marts with who-knows-what on any particular bike. Certainly not top of the line, but widely serviceable at least. That said, I'm not going to pretend I've looked at every last offering there to make that a definitive statement.
#35
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I went to my local dicks and they were super helpful! I ended up getting the GT Adult Talera 4.0 Hybrid Bike and a bunch of accessories. I even rode it when I got back home and really enjoyed it as well as it was comfortable. I know it's not the top of the line but I got a great workout and excited about adding it to my routine. They did the safety checks and etc also. Thanks for all the help!
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#38
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As Jefnvk said there is no reason to let anyone drag you down, besides once you've ridden it for 2 to 5 years or so you'll know more about what kind of bike to get the next time, maybe you'll get another better hybrid, or a road, or a cross bike, or a MTB, it takes a little time to figure out what kind of riding you'll enjoy the most. And you can still use the then older Talera for perhaps commuting or camping, so hang onto to it even after you get a better bike. You got a starter bike and you didn't pay a lot for it which is good for a starter bike.
Don't forget if you have any questions about the bike or the accessories or what other accessories you need or repair or training or whatever, just come back here and ask the forum, people are always willing to help and we all want to see you stay in the sport for a very long time and the community here will try to help you do that.
Congrats on the new bike.
Don't forget if you have any questions about the bike or the accessories or what other accessories you need or repair or training or whatever, just come back here and ask the forum, people are always willing to help and we all want to see you stay in the sport for a very long time and the community here will try to help you do that.
Congrats on the new bike.
#39
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As Jefnvk said there is no reason to let anyone drag you down, besides once you've ridden it for 2 to 5 years or so you'll know more about what kind of bike to get the next time, maybe you'll get another better hybrid, or a road, or a cross bike, or a MTB, it takes a little time to figure out what kind of riding you'll enjoy the most. And you can still use the then older Talera for perhaps commuting or camping, so hang onto to it even after you get a better bike. You got a starter bike and you didn't pay a lot for it which is good for a starter bike.
Don't forget if you have any questions about the bike or the accessories or what other accessories you need or repair or training or whatever, just come back here and ask the forum, people are always willing to help and we all want to see you stay in the sport for a very long time and the community here will try to help you do that.
Congrats on the new bike.
Don't forget if you have any questions about the bike or the accessories or what other accessories you need or repair or training or whatever, just come back here and ask the forum, people are always willing to help and we all want to see you stay in the sport for a very long time and the community here will try to help you do that.
Congrats on the new bike.
Thanks a lot!! I got a helmet and a bottle holder. I was looking on amazon for a pump, led light and since its gonna be a hot summer some nice reflective tshirts so i can be more visible. While i was riding a i saw a lot of people today riding and it was great energy. Met few neighbors too.
I was looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Combina...ke+accessories
Thanks!
#40
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Thanks a lot!! I got a helmet and a bottle holder. I was looking on amazon for a pump, led light and since its gonna be a hot summer some nice reflective tshirts so i can be more visible. While i was riding a i saw a lot of people today riding and it was great energy. Met few neighbors too.
I was looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Combina...ke+accessories
Thanks!
I was looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Combina...ke+accessories
Thanks!
The biggest issue with that kit is the lock, if you plan on locking up your bike outside while you leave it unattended for a long time someone could steal your bike with nothing more than a pair of cable cutters bought at any home improvement store. if that bothers you then I wouldn't buy that kit, and instead buy the stuff individually perhaps over time as you get more money and in order of need. A good relatively inexpensive
lock is this: Amazon.com : Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-inch x 9-inch) with 4-Foot Flex Cable : Bike U Locks : Sports & Outdoors OR THIS: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kee...d+mastiff+8020 Do not buy a lock due to it's insurance, to collect the insurance is all but impossible, also realize that no lock is theft proof, with modern battery powered angle grinders the best lock can be destroyed in 30 seconds to 1 minute at the longest, but most bike thieves are looking for expensive bikes, some will take low end bikes if the lock is cheaply made.
Cost wise this pump would be better than the one in the kit you showed, https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...opic-mini-pump This is a decent low cost pump that claims it can get to 160psi on another web site but I haven't found any mini pump that can reach those lofty psi claims, probably closer to 120. All that psi crap means is that this pump would be easier to get to 100psi than the pump you showed in that kit.
As far as lights go, and price goes, this is the best light for the money: https://www.amazon.com/GUARANTEED-Rec...bicycle+lights Again, like pumps, generic lights tend to over inflate their lumens capability by quite a bit, I doubt this light will have 1200 lumens but it could put out 450 to 600 which is a lot more than the light in your kit and not only will you be seen but you will be able to see the road.
Of course you need a tail light, this is the best for the price: https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Recharg...le+tail+lights Again, like headlights the lumens are probably over cooked so instead of the claimed 168 lumens it's probably closer to 50 to 60 which is again way better than the kit one.
Keep in mind that most of this stuff I mentioned, except the lock and the pump, are generic stuff, they're cheaply priced and won't last as long as better more expensive stuff, but they will last you about 3 to 5 years and by that time you can get better stuff as they fail. A lot of people have reported really good success with the headlight, and the nicer headlights with replaceable batteries will have batteries that cost as much or more then the battery and light combined do that I showed! So that headlight while cheap may be worth it, and even if the battery dies just buy another new light.
Like I said, just buy one or two items that are the most important to you to have right away and then work your way down in order of need, that way you're not coming up with $100 all at once unless you want to of course.
#41
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That is a good starter kit, the light is not extremely bright unlike the ad would want a person to believe, but 250 lumens (which is probably closer to 125 to 150) is a to be seen light and not so much a light to see the road with, but could work as a commuting light in the city where you have a lot of street lighting; I seriously doubt the pump will get to 120psi but on a hybrid you won't need to get that high anyways; the lock cable is not the best defense against theft, they're just playing word games to sell their stuff.
The biggest issue with that kit is the lock, if you plan on locking up your bike outside while you leave it unattended for a long time someone could steal your bike with nothing more than a pair of cable cutters bought at any home improvement store. if that bothers you then I wouldn't buy that kit, and instead buy the stuff individually perhaps over time as you get more money and in order of need. A good relatively inexpensive
lock is this: Amazon.com : Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-inch x 9-inch) with 4-Foot Flex Cable : Bike U Locks : Sports & Outdoors OR THIS: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kee...d+mastiff+8020 Do not buy a lock due to it's insurance, to collect the insurance is all but impossible, also realize that no lock is theft proof, with modern battery powered angle grinders the best lock can be destroyed in 30 seconds to 1 minute at the longest, but most bike thieves are looking for expensive bikes, some will take low end bikes if the lock is cheaply made.
Cost wise this pump would be better than the one in the kit you showed, https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...opic-mini-pump This is a decent low cost pump that claims it can get to 160psi on another web site but I haven't found any mini pump that can reach those lofty psi claims, probably closer to 120. All that psi crap means is that this pump would be easier to get to 100psi than the pump you showed in that kit.
As far as lights go, and price goes, this is the best light for the money: https://www.amazon.com/GUARANTEED-Rec...bicycle+lights Again, like pumps, generic lights tend to over inflate their lumens capability by quite a bit, I doubt this light will have 1200 lumens but it could put out 450 to 600 which is a lot more than the light in your kit and not only will you be seen but you will be able to see the road.
Of course you need a tail light, this is the best for the price: https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Recharg...le+tail+lights Again, like headlights the lumens are probably over cooked so instead of the claimed 168 lumens it's probably closer to 50 to 60 which is again way better than the kit one.
Keep in mind that most of this stuff I mentioned, except the lock and the pump, are generic stuff, they're cheaply priced and won't last as long as better more expensive stuff, but they will last you about 3 to 5 years and by that time you can get better stuff as they fail. A lot of people have reported really good success with the headlight, and the nicer headlights with replaceable batteries will have batteries that cost as much or more then the battery and light combined do that I showed! So that headlight while cheap may be worth it, and even if the battery dies just buy another new light.
Like I said, just buy one or two items that are the most important to you to have right away and then work your way down in order of need, that way you're not coming up with $100 all at once unless you want to of course.
The biggest issue with that kit is the lock, if you plan on locking up your bike outside while you leave it unattended for a long time someone could steal your bike with nothing more than a pair of cable cutters bought at any home improvement store. if that bothers you then I wouldn't buy that kit, and instead buy the stuff individually perhaps over time as you get more money and in order of need. A good relatively inexpensive
lock is this: Amazon.com : Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-inch x 9-inch) with 4-Foot Flex Cable : Bike U Locks : Sports & Outdoors OR THIS: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kee...d+mastiff+8020 Do not buy a lock due to it's insurance, to collect the insurance is all but impossible, also realize that no lock is theft proof, with modern battery powered angle grinders the best lock can be destroyed in 30 seconds to 1 minute at the longest, but most bike thieves are looking for expensive bikes, some will take low end bikes if the lock is cheaply made.
Cost wise this pump would be better than the one in the kit you showed, https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...opic-mini-pump This is a decent low cost pump that claims it can get to 160psi on another web site but I haven't found any mini pump that can reach those lofty psi claims, probably closer to 120. All that psi crap means is that this pump would be easier to get to 100psi than the pump you showed in that kit.
As far as lights go, and price goes, this is the best light for the money: https://www.amazon.com/GUARANTEED-Rec...bicycle+lights Again, like pumps, generic lights tend to over inflate their lumens capability by quite a bit, I doubt this light will have 1200 lumens but it could put out 450 to 600 which is a lot more than the light in your kit and not only will you be seen but you will be able to see the road.
Of course you need a tail light, this is the best for the price: https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Recharg...le+tail+lights Again, like headlights the lumens are probably over cooked so instead of the claimed 168 lumens it's probably closer to 50 to 60 which is again way better than the kit one.
Keep in mind that most of this stuff I mentioned, except the lock and the pump, are generic stuff, they're cheaply priced and won't last as long as better more expensive stuff, but they will last you about 3 to 5 years and by that time you can get better stuff as they fail. A lot of people have reported really good success with the headlight, and the nicer headlights with replaceable batteries will have batteries that cost as much or more then the battery and light combined do that I showed! So that headlight while cheap may be worth it, and even if the battery dies just buy another new light.
Like I said, just buy one or two items that are the most important to you to have right away and then work your way down in order of need, that way you're not coming up with $100 all at once unless you want to of course.
Thanks a lot for all this information. I am ordering the front/rear light and pump right away. I need a phone mount. any suggestions? I used strava yesterday to track my ride. Are there any apps you guys recommend?
#42
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I use GPS Essentials to track my rides and save them into KML files which I can then open in Google Earth. All nice and free of the seemingly mandatory involvement with social media other apps force you into.
#43
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For constant distance/speed knowledge, I just use whatever cheap wired computer the local XX-Mart has on sale. Most have mine cost around $10, and when measured against GPS are within about 1% accuracy, plenty good for my uses, dropping the need for a phone mount.
As to the pump, one of the best things I have ever done is to buy a GOOD pump. I have some cheap ones I still keep attached to bikes that are sparingly used, but once I got one of these, I realized how awful the cheapies were: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Mo.../dp/B004GDBQO6. If you are patient, you can find them for $25-30 on sale. When my floor pump went out, I actually used this for a while until I replaced it.
Locks, I don't put much thought into. My bike is just locked up when I stop at a store or a bar on a ride, it doesn't sit outside. I've got something good enough to keep the honest folks honest, if someone really wants my bike any power tool will take care of any lock I care to pay for with little trouble.
#44
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Thank you!! I will look into it. totally agree about the battery life. i just used strava and had the phone on my arm band. I rode 9 miles today and felt great!
Is there a way i can get a different saddle or seat cover. I felt little uncomforable with my current. Just a bit not a deal breaker!
Is there a way i can get a different saddle or seat cover. I felt little uncomforable with my current. Just a bit not a deal breaker!
#45
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I use a tracking app on my Windows Phone, and just toss it in my back jersey pocket with the app running under the lock screen (one of the reasons I love jerseys so much). Unless you have something ubiquitous like an iPhone or a Galaxy, you're probably going to have to try mounts with your phone to find one you like that fits it. I have yet to find anything that fits my phone (although, I have been looking for something fully enclosed). I find that the screen running that bright for a bike ride tends to kill the battery anyways.
For constant distance/speed knowledge, I just use whatever cheap wired computer the local XX-Mart has on sale. Most have mine cost around $10, and when measured against GPS are within about 1% accuracy, plenty good for my uses, dropping the need for a phone mount.
As to the pump, one of the best things I have ever done is to buy a GOOD pump. I have some cheap ones I still keep attached to bikes that are sparingly used, but once I got one of these, I realized how awful the cheapies were: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Mo.../dp/B004GDBQO6. If you are patient, you can find them for $25-30 on sale. When my floor pump went out, I actually used this for a while until I replaced it.
Locks, I don't put much thought into. My bike is just locked up when I stop at a store or a bar on a ride, it doesn't sit outside. I've got something good enough to keep the honest folks honest, if someone really wants my bike any power tool will take care of any lock I care to pay for with little trouble.
For constant distance/speed knowledge, I just use whatever cheap wired computer the local XX-Mart has on sale. Most have mine cost around $10, and when measured against GPS are within about 1% accuracy, plenty good for my uses, dropping the need for a phone mount.
As to the pump, one of the best things I have ever done is to buy a GOOD pump. I have some cheap ones I still keep attached to bikes that are sparingly used, but once I got one of these, I realized how awful the cheapies were: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Mo.../dp/B004GDBQO6. If you are patient, you can find them for $25-30 on sale. When my floor pump went out, I actually used this for a while until I replaced it.
Locks, I don't put much thought into. My bike is just locked up when I stop at a store or a bar on a ride, it doesn't sit outside. I've got something good enough to keep the honest folks honest, if someone really wants my bike any power tool will take care of any lock I care to pay for with little trouble.
What lock is adequate to keep honest folks honest depends on where you will be leaving your bike. If you bike a lot in a large city or college area, then you really should go with a U lock, or a folding lock from Kryptonite or Abus. In a lower bike theft area, a chain or cable might be adequate. I keep a cable in a small front bag along with a master lock. When I ride with my wife and rarely, my son, we will use a Kryptonite lock, along with two cable locks. Lock two frames together with the U lock, then secure the wheels with the cable locks. It isn't perfect, but I am surprised how many people riding nicer bikes than mine use no lock at all. I figure if a thief has a choice, he will steal the unlocked bike, rather than the two bikes secured with 3 locks.
#46
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Thank you!! I will look into it. totally agree about the battery life. i just used strava and had the phone on my arm band. I rode 9 miles today and felt great!
Is there a way i can get a different saddle or seat cover. I felt little uncomforable with my current. Just a bit not a deal breaker!
Is there a way i can get a different saddle or seat cover. I felt little uncomforable with my current. Just a bit not a deal breaker!
#47
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Is it normal to have knee pain when someone starts riding? I use this when i run but i can feel it in my knees. Could be my riding form?
https://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Jumper...rt+for+running
Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Jumper...rt+for+running
Thanks!
#48
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Is it normal to have knee pain when someone starts riding? I use this when i run but i can feel it in my knees. Could be my riding form?
Amazon.com: Mueller Jumper's Knee Strap Red: Health & Personal Care
Thanks!
Amazon.com: Mueller Jumper's Knee Strap Red: Health & Personal Care
Thanks!
#49
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When you're new to the sport, slight pain in the few hours that follow a ride is to be expected. Extreme pain, however, means you're doing it wrong: either you're using the wrong gears (most beginners, under the false impression that the greater the effort - and the pain - the greater the athletic gain, make the mistake of just setting the bike to the highest possible gearing leaving it there,) or you don't have your feet on the pedals properly (the balls - the widest parts - of your feet, and not the bottoms, should be over the axles of the pedals,) or both. I learned this the hard way when I first started riding regularly as a means to commute and for recreational/amateur racing more than 20 years ago.
#50
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