MTB Hubs on road bike?
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MTB Hubs on road bike?
Hello there fellow cyclists,
Im building some wheels to handle anything in 4 seasons from day to day cycling, trekking, commuting, touring (fully loaded)
I was wondering if anyone had used MTB hubs for road biking? Also what is the difference between road and MTB hubs? Different bearings? Im thinking the Chris Kings iso disk hubs front and back. If is just a weight thing then i do not care as an extra 200g or so per hub is worth it for the strength and durability.
Cheers
Tim-Bob
Im building some wheels to handle anything in 4 seasons from day to day cycling, trekking, commuting, touring (fully loaded)
I was wondering if anyone had used MTB hubs for road biking? Also what is the difference between road and MTB hubs? Different bearings? Im thinking the Chris Kings iso disk hubs front and back. If is just a weight thing then i do not care as an extra 200g or so per hub is worth it for the strength and durability.
Cheers
Tim-Bob
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A CK MTB hub will not be any more durable than a road hub. The quality of the bearings and parts are equal. Neither are StupidLight and are equally well made. The number of spokes is far more important.
You are going to need to look through all those variants of width and QR type to get what matches YOUR frame. A 142x12 thru axle hub is not going to fit a 135mm road bike even if it has braze ons for the calipers.
You are going to need to look through all those variants of width and QR type to get what matches YOUR frame. A 142x12 thru axle hub is not going to fit a 135mm road bike even if it has braze ons for the calipers.
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I have a Genesis Croix de fer witch can handle 135mm and yes it must be QR for it to fit. The main reason im going for the CK ISO instead of the R45 is down to reviews. I have not read a bad word about the ISO whereas the R45 has been slammed a little. and for the info im going for disk brakes.
Last edited by timbobjones; 05-23-16 at 04:03 PM.
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I have 1200 miles on my CK R45 disc hubs and they have been perfect. I built up my wheels for durability and I didnt' care about weight. Mine are 32 spoke laced to DT Swiss TK45 hoops. Not the lightest wheel by any stretch, but are durable.
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Be careful about hub spacing on the rear.
New standard road bikes are 130mm or 131mm, MTBs are 135mm (or wider).
Also differences of thru-axle and skewers.
Discs?
Shimano seems to have a lot of overlap between their road and MTB lines, with some (but not all) of the MTB stuff being lower quality. Perhaps different seals, but those are even changing.
If the axles are standard threaded, they can be pretty easy to cut down. I'm not sure about some of the sealed bearing and other axles using end-caps. Of course, long skewers can also be a problem, and may or may not have sufficient threading to cut shorter.
You can get any number of spokes you choose from 16 to 48, with benefits of each.
New standard road bikes are 130mm or 131mm, MTBs are 135mm (or wider).
Also differences of thru-axle and skewers.
Discs?
Shimano seems to have a lot of overlap between their road and MTB lines, with some (but not all) of the MTB stuff being lower quality. Perhaps different seals, but those are even changing.
If the axles are standard threaded, they can be pretty easy to cut down. I'm not sure about some of the sealed bearing and other axles using end-caps. Of course, long skewers can also be a problem, and may or may not have sufficient threading to cut shorter.
You can get any number of spokes you choose from 16 to 48, with benefits of each.
#6
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Yes, you can. Be careful of the spacing. I have used XTR hubs with Dura-Ace freewheels, and vice-versa, so gearing options are not limited.
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I built a set with MTB hubs for a disc/dirt road bike that I built myself. I used convertible MTB hubs and narrow 29er rims, so they could be converted to thru axle and do double duty as road or MTB rims. I built them with 32 spokes in a 3x pattern, so they are heavier than what I would usually run on the road. The frame was built for 135mm rear spacing, as are most current road disc frames.