Heykyle

The Nishiki Adult Manitoba Hybrid Bike
The Diamondback Adult Sorrento Mountain Bike
The Nishiki Adult Anasazi Hybrid Bike
Or the Nishiki Adult Colorado 29'er Mountain Bike

These bikes are all near $400 USD

I am 140 pounds and 5'10

Which bike will last and is best for roads or dirt trails?

fietsbob

Test ride them at a bike shop, and form an opinion of your own .
(I worked in a shop selling the Nishiki brand in the late 80s, they're OK)

Diamond back name was sold , not the same company as the 80's MTB makers.

Its a brand name, there are plenty of others.. all competing for your money. its a competitive business.

Hybrid narrower tire not much wider, 29er, you can always fit the hybrid tire on one..


want roads more than trails? what %



.....

AlexCyclistRoch

Oh, lord, here we go again.......

The reality is that between these 4 fairly cheap bikes, you'll get a good deal whichever one you choose. The real question is this: What is important to YOURSELF? All we know about you is your height and weight. We don't know:

What kind of riding you do
How many miles you ride
How often you ride
How old you are
What sex you are
Where you live
What your level of mechanical ability is

Etc., Etc.

To your question, I give you this answer: 42.

It makes no sense, but your question isn't answerable.

trail_monkey

I had a couple sorrentos bought new in 09. Ok bike for riding paved trails but nothing you would want to get too serious on. They are cheap entry level bikes but will be fine for general riding.

Heykyle

So those bikes are complete crap for my age at 15?
I need one for an outdoor activity. Maybe ride for 2 hours around my town. I have energy and I can ride for miles. Unless those fairly cheap bikes fall apart.

OshkoshBiker

As a former bicycle mechanic for Dick's Sporting Goods, It is my understanding that Nishiki is manufactured by Accell N.A. which is the same for Diamondback. Nishiki is DSG's brand.

If you're going off road then I recommend the Colorado 29'er. If you're riding more rail trail and less off road like then the Anasazi is a good choice.

BTW...Look for a sale on these bikes if they are not on sale already. Also, the service contract is not expensive and a pretty good warranty that includes tune-ups for the next couple of years.

Another note, DSG's policy is to never take a bike back in return once it leaves the store. However, if you put up a big enough fight they will eventually cave.

Good luck.

Heykyle

I have read some other places to stay away from dicks. But that's my budget and where can I get a good enough. Bike that won't have problems.

trail_monkey

I bought a nice jamis trail x 3 years ago from a jamis dealer and it was light years ahead of what your looking at. $575 retail but they sold it for $550. Look around. Some shops will have good used bikes for sale that are better. I am not a fan of the sorrentos. Diamondback doesn't seem to spec their bikes as well as other manufacturers until you start shelling out the bucks then they are pretty nice. That's what my local bike shop was telling me at least.

Machka 

A bike that will have minimal problems is one that you treat well when you ride and learn to maintain.


One option for you is to look at what you can find for sale on the used bike lists of your local cycling clubs.

SkyDog75

All four bikes are pretty similar in quality and component level, having 6061 aluminum frames and 7- or 8- speed Shimano Altus or Acera drivetrains. There are some differences like v-brakes vs. mechanical discs, but nothing that'll make any of the four significantly better than the others.

Since you mentioned dirt trails, I'd probably lean away from the Manitoba because of its rigid fork. The forks on the other ones aren't high end, but they may be a little better on dirt than no suspension at all. If you were going to stick almost completely to pavement, though, a rigid fork can be preferable.

Between the remaining three options, I'd probably lean toward the Nishiki Colorado, but it's not a slam dunk.

No, they're not complete crap. They're not the fanciest bikes or the lightest, but they're perfectly functional. Like any other decent bike, they'll last for years so long as you take care of them.

I'd prefer my local bike shop to my local Dick's because I know the guys at the bike shop are experienced mechanics. They work on bikes. It's what they do. The bikes you listed from Dick's aren't crap, but the person who puts your bike together and adjusts it may not be as experienced as someone at a bike shop whose whole job is to work on bikes.

If you've got any mechanical inclination and access to tools, it's kind of a moot point, though. You can do your own adjustments and basic repairs.

Maelochs

To me the question is what "dirt trails" means. Around town, I can figure.

Do you mean fairly smooth packed-earth trails? Gravel (deep and loose, or packed in dirt?) Roots and ruts and big rocks and mud? Big climbs and drops and hue jumps?

For a bike which sees mostly smooth trails and pavement and gravel, I would avoid a front suspension fork. Most are heavy, fragile, and of limited utility. Also, the more the fork costs, the rest goers into the rest of the bike.

if I were you I would set aside more time for shopping. Look online, go to different stores, see what's out there. As someone mentioned above, you might find that bike some guy bought and hardly ever used he just wants to get rid of, or the bike shop hasn't sold in three years.

Whatever you buy make sure it fits you, and whatever you buy, take a little care of it. For most bikes if you keep the chain clean and lubricated and the wheels straight, and learn to make minor cable adjustments, you will get a few years out of any bike better than Wal-mart fare ... and by the time you are 18, you will have different cycling needs and desires and will be ready to buy another bike anyway.

Heykyle

Are there any bike fixing guides online, and a way to identify damage? I'm so new to choosing my first bike, and I don't even know how to tell if the components on the bike are very weak. That shouldn't stop me from asking for help.

These are the bikes I'm best interested, but the reviews online scare me off.

Diamondback Adult Sorrento Mountain Bike $350

Nishiki Adult Colorado 29'er Mountain Bike $400

GT Adult Aggressor Pro Mountain Bike $450

Not much of a price difference really. I need a bike for just riding on trails and rocky places and streets.


Reviews:

https://www.quora.com/What-are-some-...-Nishiki-bikes

Is Nishiki a good bike??- Mtbr.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B011B712O8/ref=mw_dp_cr

fietsbob

Turn off the computer and bring that $400 to a bike shop and test ride them.

trail_monkey

This...

jefnvk

Three of the four he mentions are Dick's Sporting Goods exclusives. While I am not saying don't buy them, good luck getting any better advice there than he can here, or even a proper test ride.

That is assuming they even stock his particular size, and don't just send him out the door with what they have in stock.

SkyDog75

There are lots of helpful web sites that have repair and maintenance instructions. Off the top of my head, Sheldon Brown's site and Park Tool's web site are two great resources.

"Weak components" are generally not an issue. At the lower end of the price spectrum for decent bikes -- which is the price point you're looking at -- you'll find parts that are heavier, not as polished, maybe not as stiff. They're generally durable, though. Sometimes even more so since the manufacturer's not trying to shave every last gram of weight. Steel chainrings on cranksets are cheaper than aluminum, for example, even though they're stronger and more durable.

If you go too cheap, though, like Walmart cheap... That's a different story. You'll find references referring to those bikes as BSO's, or "bike shaped objects". Those can be a pain in the rear end to get working right and keep them that way.

A few signs you're looking at a decent enough bike:

• At a minimum, you want Shimano's 'A series' shifting components like Altus, Acera, or Alivio derailleurs. You generally don't want to see the Shimano name without a model/family designation.
• You want aluminum double-walled rims.
• You want quick release or through-axle hubs on the wheels. If you see a nut that you have to remove with a wrench, you're looking at a low-end bike.
• You don't want a one-piece crank or steel crank arms.
• You want a freehub, not a freewheel. They're hard to tell apart unless you know what you're looking at, but the presence of disc brakes or 8+ cogs on the rear wheel are signs it's most likely a freehub.

fietsbob

Kid is still in school bolt on wheels are less likely to be Stolen.

Heykyle

I don't know if I'm wasting my time here. I'll test ride them and ask questions. I'll update this thread if I need to.