Kuakeye

I recently got a used Cannondale Caad8 (first road bike) and I'm REALLY loving road cycling! I've been looking around online and it looks like there are a few things about the bike that are not the greatest.

The first thing is that the wheels on this bike (I believe this bike is from 2013) are not very good. Maddux RS 2.0's. I'm looking to replace these with some Mavic wheels sometime in the further future, perhaps when the current wheels have reached their end of life.

The second thing and the focus of this post are the shifters. This bike has 8 speeds at the back with the older version Shimano Claris 2300 brifters that have the thumb paddles on them. I really don't like these, and I want to replace them with the newer Claris 2400 brifters that have the integrated upshifts right behind the brake levers. Being a complete newbie to bike repair (I took this bike in just to get a new Shimano chain+casette since the old ones were wearing out) I don't even know where to start in terms of repairability. However, I do want to start getting into DIY bike repair because it seems interesting to me and a good learning experience.

Question 1: is there any way to get quicker response shifting from new shifters, or does the rear derailleur have more to do with this?
Question 2: If it is the case that I could get a bit quicker shifting with better shifters, what are the possibilities for installing a higher speed (Tigara, 105, etc.) shifter onto an 8-speed drivetrain?
Question 3: I am on a pretty tight budget, but these thumb paddle shifters REALLY bother me...is there any way I can use existing bar tape+cables and just replace the shifter? (I found one very cheap used but it doesn't come with any cables)


I heard that this frame is pretty solid and upgradeable, so in the future, I'd like to replace the entire groupset of this bike. I've looked at other forum posts at some tools I might need for this undertaking, and most of it seems pretty straightforward.

However, one thing that makes me nervous/unsure is replacing the front crank. There seem to be a number of different types of cranksets fittings/bearings/crank lengths and I have no idea what to look for. All I know is that my bike has an FSA Omega crank currently with 34/50 teeth. If possible, I would like a shorter crank length, but my reasoning is simply because my pedal tends to graze the ground when I'm doing sharp turns. I have no idea what would be a good fit for my legs. My inseam is 28" and the bike frame is 48cm (I'm a pretty small guy). I also don't know what type of bottom bracket my bike has, even after trying to Google my bike model. Lastly, I don't really know what tools I'd need to do a DIY replacement of the front crank.

To shed some more light on my newbiness, I somehow managed to cross thread my pedal with my FSA crank. During my third bike ride, that pedal snapped off of the crank and took almost half the threads with it. I went to my LBS and they just re-attached the pedal (correctly this time ) along with some thread lock. That's another reason why I'd like to replace the crank in the near future. I'm not sure how long this crank will last, with half of the left side screw threads stripped like this.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Camilo

I think that the CAAD 8 is a top notch aluminum frame, still. I really doubt there's many current aluminum frames that are distinctively "better". Worth upgrading parts on.

That said, you're looking at replacing two or three of the most expensive parts: wheels, shifters and crank. And, at least for the shifters, you're probably not "upgrading" in a meaningful way (my opinion of course).

Do a quick and dirty cost analysis of what those three major parts are going to cost you to "upgrade" in a meaningful way. Then think about what you could get selling your bike as-is. That would give you an idea of whether it would be best to just save your money and buy a new or better/newer used bike with better wheels, shifter and crank.

Good luck though and ride that CAAD 8 while you have it!

Sirius1

Always raise your "inside" leg when turning, or you could end up worse than just grazing the pedal on the ground. You don't want to completely wipe out or get hurt by grounding a leg in the down position.

Re: the shift levers, I did just that. I originally purchased the 2300 levers, then decided to go with the 2400s for the more standard 2-lever shifting without the 'mouseear' button a year later. Was a straightforward swap as both are 8-speed. Cables can be reused, but you will have to un/re-wrap the bar to get the levers swapped. You can reuse the same tape if it's in good shape, mine was, but if it's older tape, you may just want to replace. I found a set of Claris levers online for less than $100 if you look. They were in "new" condition, but unboxed. I did reconnect the cables, but took to bike shop to have them adjust the derailleurs. Just to do that shouldn't be much more than $15-20 or so. I just can never seem to get the shifting tuned right.

You'll just have to decide how much $$$ is enough, or too much. I'm in the same position with wheels too, and haven't spent that money, but might. The rest of your drivetrain may be fine, especially if the chain and cassette were just replaced. You'll have to see how the cranks/pedals hold up. For me the $100 for the Claris levers was a good buy, as I do like them a lot more than the 2300 ones....Not only the lever change, but the whole hood and lever placement angle is more comfortable and like the up-level models.

MRT2

If your budget is tight and you really hate those thumb shifters, 8 speed from a few years ago is compatible with older 8 speed shifters. So if you can find some used or NOS 8 speed 105 or Ultegra, you could switch it out. My son has something like this on his bike with older 105 shifters mated with a modern 2300 derailleur. But don't expect miracles. If you want a high end drivetrain, you will have to pay for it.

Switching from 8 to 9, 10 or 11 speed might get a little spendy.

If you are scraping the ground with your pedal, you need to upgrade your technique, not your gear. Inside leg is always up when going into a turn.

You can always upgrade wheels. What is it about the stock wheels you don't like?

Maelochs

I think you have a really nice bike. if it were mine, I would Very slowly upgrade as parts wore out. But once you start .... it gets very expensive very quickly.

New wheels, high tpi tires, and new brifters (plus cables and tape) all together could easily cost $500-$700--and that is if you can do all your own work. You could probably sell your bike, take the $500, save a little, and get another CAAD8 with all better parts more cheaply than you could do all the upgrades piecemeal.

You can get a whole 4700 Tiagra 10-speed groupset including crankset, cassette, brakes, brifters (with cables), front and rear derailleurs, and chain for $323.49 at Chain Reaction (Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 Speed Groupset | Chain Reaction Cycles)... I bet you could find new 9-speed Sora for considerably less and it is just as good.

(Actually, ar Ribble ... Shimano Sora 3000 9 Speed Double Groupset - Road Groupsets - Ribble Cycles Shimano Sora 3000 9 Speed Double Groupset with absolutely everything including bottom bracket for $266.54 ... I might buy one for one of my older bikes, it is such a great deal.)

I have done piecemeal upgrades, and you either need to shop very patiently and judiciously for used parts, or spend ridiculous money ... I bet two 2400 brifters with no cables and a new 2400 crankset would cost almost $250, when you could get lighter, stronger 10-speed for $325 or equally light and strong 9-speed for $267.

But ... if you can use the existing crank (if it is left side you might even be able to buy a single crank arm) and are willing to pay for the brifters .... I wouldn’t want the thumbshifters either.

If I were you I would slap on the latest 9-speed Sora group ... save up for some lighter wheels on down the road ... but mostly just ride the nuts and bolts off the bike. It is a super frame and with the 9-speed Sora you will be better equipped than you need to be ... which is just enough, right?

Kuakeye

Thanks for the help. Solid advice on the pedals while turning. I've always turned my bike with my pedal down, not up. I guess it was a habit I developed to balance myself better while turning sharply.

I think at this point, the general consensus is to enjoy riding this bike while it still works and later on either upgrade parts or get a new bike with better components. I am eyeing full carbon bikes but they are much too expensive right now. The cheapest ones I could find used are around $800. At the same time though, the total money I'd spend on the bike+upgrades would probably equal the price of a used carbon bike ($400 bike, $??? in upgrades) so a new bike might be the best option. Not sure on this though.

Going back on the topic of shifters, my experience with trying different shifters is that as you move up to better shifters there is a very noticeable increase in ease and responsiveness of shifting. For example, the Claris shifters right now seem pretty slow at shifting the back, and for upshifting in the front I find that I need to bend the shifter with a lot of effort and hold it there for a few seconds before the chain jumps to the bigger crank ring. However, I tried a bike with even just one level up components, an old 9 speed Sora, and both these issues seemed to improve significantly. The Sora bike shifters felt a lot easier to actuate, plus the shifting was quicker and more responsive. Is this generally true, or would I be able to achieve similar shifting effort/responsiveness by oiling up the internal Claris brifter components/getting new shift cables? The cables right now are old, but not damaged or noticeably worn at all.

mstateglfr 

Shimano Sora 3500 STI Levers - 9 Speed - Gear Levers and Shifters - Ribble Cycles

$100 delivered to you. Sora 3500 level.
get a 9sp cassette, slap it on your rear wheel, and have fun.

The wheels you have are fine as long as they arent wobbly. The drivetrain you have is fine as long as it isnt skipping when you pedal.

Use the junk out of it then upgrade your wheels once its beneficial and you better know what you want.

Maelochs

Right but here is where I start question economies of scale ... buy big and save bigger.

A cassette and brifters and a chain will run close to $150. For $110 more he gets the cassette and brifters ... and cables, and brakes, and BB, and crankset (which might be damaged.) he even get a chain that fits (useful to have.)

When the other stuff does need replacing or upgrading ... he's already got it. He can throw the 8-speed on his rain bike, or swap it or sell it .... but he's already got a partially stripped crank arm.

Plus the Sora comes (as far as I know, judging from what I have seen) with the Hollowtech crank, which is a huge upgrade. he can use his 8--speed until the pedal falls out, then swap.

There is no way he could get all that piecemeal for $110.

I went the piece-at-a-time off EBay route before ... won't again. I also won't pay $100 for brifters alone when I can get a whole groupset for the prices I see.

Both are valid courses of action, in my opinion--paying a little more for parts and not having to store spares, or buying a full groupset and swapping saving the parts you don't need.

it's just that I have been at this long enough to know that while I might not want that new crankset today ... i will next week, and then I will need a new BB, and by the time I add it all up I spent more than I needed to.

mstateglfr 

Well yeah, agree with all that. I was just going with the cheapest initial route since the OP said they are on a tight budget, the bike works as is, and what seems like the biggest complaint is the STIs.
Its for sure typically cheaper to buy a groupset rather than piecemeal it.

Personally I would just get these for $63 rather than Soras for $100.
microshift sti brifters 9 speed double never mounted brake shifters drop bar | eBay
but I know there is some hesitation to Microshift, so it isnt for everyone.

Maelochs

I hope the OP tries them ... i have always been intrigued but never wanted to spend the money to find out if they were any good.

hubcyclist

I have microshift r8 shifters on a cheapo CX build I have going, haven't been out on the road with it yet, but in home tests they work wonderfully (I have 8 speed 105 on my road bike). They're paired up with claris components.

Maelochs

Do they mimic the Shimano shift motion? Where the brake lever shift one way and the second lever, they other?

Lazyass

It sounds like you need to tune the bike. I just bought a '17 Diverge with Claris 2400. It shifts better than my Ultegra 6700 10 speed. But when you only have 8 cogs it going to be a hair slower because the chain has to travel further.

The new Claris R2000 group just came out and it actually looks very nice.

CLARIS R2000

mstateglfr 

I have some 7sp microshifts on an older road bike thats been updated and they work great.

Its a distinct 'click' for shifting, which is different from shimano...but sram and campy are also different sounding and feeling.

As for your question, there are 2 shift paddles- 1 to shift up and 1 to shift down. This is in addition to the brake lever. So thats different from shimano where the brake lever doubles as a shifter.

Interesting- microshift's higher end shifters, the 11sp and one 10sp model, mimic campy where a button shifts. This is similar to old Sora, but the button is better placed