How do you sell your bikes?
#1
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How do you sell your bikes?
I have a Specialized Roubaix that I'm wanting to sell. I have it listed on Criag's LIst. So far all I've gotten is offers from scammers. It hasn't been listed very long, and I did start at the top of the Bluebook value so I could negotiate.
I've been told by the LBS that they may take it on trade, but thought I'd do better selling it myself.
I'm curious how you all sell your bikes when you're ready to upgrade?
I've been told by the LBS that they may take it on trade, but thought I'd do better selling it myself.
I'm curious how you all sell your bikes when you're ready to upgrade?
#2
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If you have gotten no serious buyers on craigslist, either your price is too high or your listing is bad (lack of details, pictures, etc..). Also, if it is a higher end model, it make take longer to sell.
You can also list it on pinkbike.
You can also list it on pinkbike.
#3
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Sell? Bikes? These words make no sense in that order.
#4
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I've sold 3 bikes on CR.
I state in BOLD "If you are interested, send me your name, your location and your phone number. I will not be returning any emails, we will do all discussions over the phone."
I've not had and scammers since.
I state in BOLD "If you are interested, send me your name, your location and your phone number. I will not be returning any emails, we will do all discussions over the phone."
I've not had and scammers since.
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I use Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace/yard sale pages. They have always sold within 2 weeks, but they haven't been higher end/expensive bikes either. I tend to see those bikes sit longer unless they are super cheap. You could try ebay or get a membership for Bike Forums to sell here, if you don't mind shipping. Or list it on ebay as local pick up only. I don't really find BBB to be too relevant, either. The pricing may be fine for your area though...I don't know.
Anyway, when I'm selling a bike, I include many clear pictures (usually post the full amount allowed). I also write the ad in sections that are easy to read through. I'll usually start with a bit of regular info on the bike (any damage, changes, work needed if any, etc), and add the price below this. Then I'll clearly list the components underneath. Once all the bike related stuff is laid out, I'll have another section that explains how to reach me, where I am located, and what options they have when it comes to getting the bike (pick up, meet up, etc) and when I am available. I'll usually list the price again at the end.
Since people on CL seem to not like reading, I try to keep it short but make sure I have added enough info that they won't need to ask questions.
Also, I don't add my phone number anymore, just email. That took care of the spam/scammers.
Anyway, when I'm selling a bike, I include many clear pictures (usually post the full amount allowed). I also write the ad in sections that are easy to read through. I'll usually start with a bit of regular info on the bike (any damage, changes, work needed if any, etc), and add the price below this. Then I'll clearly list the components underneath. Once all the bike related stuff is laid out, I'll have another section that explains how to reach me, where I am located, and what options they have when it comes to getting the bike (pick up, meet up, etc) and when I am available. I'll usually list the price again at the end.
Since people on CL seem to not like reading, I try to keep it short but make sure I have added enough info that they won't need to ask questions.
Also, I don't add my phone number anymore, just email. That took care of the spam/scammers.
#6
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I won't discuss price because I don't need to. I will seond katsup on the rest.
I see a lot of bikes with no mention of frame size, group set, add-ons, age, wear, no official name and model number .... If I am going to buy a bike I need to know if my other seat posts will fit, what bottom bracket does it have , Certainly what components ... I wouldn't bother listing generic or house-brand cockpit bits, but drive train is a must.
if you can find the web page for the original bike and include that, so much the better ... and then you can list changes you might have made.
particularly if you are selling a serious bike, you will be looking for serious buyers, the kind who have spent too many hours already driving to see a bike which was not what was claimed, or was not the size claimed .... pictures of head-tube badges or downtube decals, size decals, front and rear end of the drive train, and maybe one of the saddle and one of the handlebars/shifters/stem.
The more money you want, the more you want to think the person shopping is confident it is what you say it is and the more you want the customer to think you know your stuff.
Also ...a little thing, but ... spell-check, and double-check the parts names.
Also ... look for similar bikes on the area. Every area has a different bike economy.
I know I could list a bike (or shop for bikes) at a few different cities within a 90-minute drive. if one set off listings seems higher in price than another ....
I see a lot of bikes with no mention of frame size, group set, add-ons, age, wear, no official name and model number .... If I am going to buy a bike I need to know if my other seat posts will fit, what bottom bracket does it have , Certainly what components ... I wouldn't bother listing generic or house-brand cockpit bits, but drive train is a must.
if you can find the web page for the original bike and include that, so much the better ... and then you can list changes you might have made.
particularly if you are selling a serious bike, you will be looking for serious buyers, the kind who have spent too many hours already driving to see a bike which was not what was claimed, or was not the size claimed .... pictures of head-tube badges or downtube decals, size decals, front and rear end of the drive train, and maybe one of the saddle and one of the handlebars/shifters/stem.
The more money you want, the more you want to think the person shopping is confident it is what you say it is and the more you want the customer to think you know your stuff.
Also ...a little thing, but ... spell-check, and double-check the parts names.
Also ... look for similar bikes on the area. Every area has a different bike economy.
I know I could list a bike (or shop for bikes) at a few different cities within a 90-minute drive. if one set off listings seems higher in price than another ....
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I use craigslist or whatever the local equivalent is. I usually price the bikes fairly low, because...
1- It's used, and I can't prove what was or wasn't done to it.
2- I'm trying to get rid of a bike, not make a profit.
Most people who have a hard time selling their bikes want way too much for them. Seems like half the bikes for sale in my area haven't sold because you'd be able to get a brand new equivalent for 2-300 more.
1- It's used, and I can't prove what was or wasn't done to it.
2- I'm trying to get rid of a bike, not make a profit.
Most people who have a hard time selling their bikes want way too much for them. Seems like half the bikes for sale in my area haven't sold because you'd be able to get a brand new equivalent for 2-300 more.
#9
Fredly Fredster
Local trading journal. It's too damn expensive to use eBay and ship bikes, IMO. I haven't sold a bike on eBay since the early 00's.
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CL & I have ppl come to my home. there were 3? exceptions where I sold to young ppl (aka college kids) w/o cars & I delivered the bikes to places convenient for them. some bikes take longer to sell. I found springtime to be a great time to sell. lots of buyers
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If you are going to buy from that shop anyhow, get a quote from them. If it isn't too far off what you'd settle on, just take it and move on. I don't see many bikes that retailed for $3500 new for sale on my local CLs, unless you live in a really cycle market, the odds you find someone that wants that bike in that size for what I am assuming is still well into the four digits just aren't that great.
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I sold a Madone within 6 hours of posting it. As already mentioned. Detailed description of parts, components, wheels, and estimated years/miles on each listed item. I also priced it to sell. I listed it for what I would take for it leaving no room to negotiate. The buyer knew enough to know he was getting a fair price and I was getting cash to buy more bike stuff.
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I have had good experiences when selling components on eBay, even if the commission is a little high and they are biased towards buyers in terms of protection.
I don't know what it is, but anytime I list anything on Craigslist, it brings out the crazies.
I don't know what it is, but anytime I list anything on Craigslist, it brings out the crazies.
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Is it this bike that sells new for $3,000 - $10,000?
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/roubaix
Craigslist is for those who sell more affordable bikes.
Ebay is your friend https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...&_skc=50&rt=nc
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/roubaix
Craigslist is for those who sell more affordable bikes.
Ebay is your friend https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...&_skc=50&rt=nc
#17
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I have a Specialized Roubaix that I'm wanting to sell. I have it listed on Criag's LIst. So far all I've gotten is offers from scammers. It hasn't been listed very long, and I did start at the top of the Bluebook value so I could negotiate.
I've been told by the LBS that they may take it on trade, but thought I'd do better selling it myself.
I'm curious how you all sell your bikes when you're ready to upgrade?
I've been told by the LBS that they may take it on trade, but thought I'd do better selling it myself.
I'm curious how you all sell your bikes when you're ready to upgrade?
There there is the other approach- price it properly the first time so you dont turn away prospective buyers before they even see the bike.
If I see something that isnt worth its asking price on CL, i move on. Typically, there are just too many bikes for me to bother with overpriced bikes(high end of a price range included).
Also, bicycle blue book is trash. its as accurate as deciding on a price because your infant child cried that many times after waking from a nap.
It doesnt take into account location, current local inventory, or time of year. All these have a HUGE bearing on price.
If you want it to sell- Take good clear pics of components and the overall bike. Then describe the bike and size concisely. Then price it to sell.
#18
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There is certainly a popular approach to selling used where you inflate the asking price to account for offers and negotiating.
There there is the other approach- price it properly the first time so you dont turn away prospective buyers before they even see the bike.
If I see something that isnt worth its asking price on CL, i move on. Typically, there are just too many bikes for me to bother with overpriced bikes(high end of a price range included).
Also, bicycle blue book is trash. its as accurate as deciding on a price because your infant child cried that many times after waking from a nap.
It doesnt take into account location, current local inventory, or time of year. All these have a HUGE bearing on price.
If you want it to sell- Take good clear pics of components and the overall bike. Then describe the bike and size concisely. Then price it to sell.
There there is the other approach- price it properly the first time so you dont turn away prospective buyers before they even see the bike.
If I see something that isnt worth its asking price on CL, i move on. Typically, there are just too many bikes for me to bother with overpriced bikes(high end of a price range included).
Also, bicycle blue book is trash. its as accurate as deciding on a price because your infant child cried that many times after waking from a nap.
It doesnt take into account location, current local inventory, or time of year. All these have a HUGE bearing on price.
If you want it to sell- Take good clear pics of components and the overall bike. Then describe the bike and size concisely. Then price it to sell.
I could add derailer pictures, I'll do that tonight.
#19
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Think of the other end: "What's the right price for a used by with a CF frame which might have been dropped or crashed ... might have been ridden hard over cobbles or gravel ... it's got Ultegra which is great unless there were stream crossings in with all that gravel and the silt has eaten away half the wheel, headset, and BB bearings."
He can do the coin test, you can assure him you never even dropped it, let alone crashed it ... but the last 17 people told him the same story.
And he doesn't care how much you paid---maybe you got beat? Maybe you way overpaid? He cares about how much it might cost him to fix the stuff which he didn't see on his short test ride.
That's why you always take a beating on a used bike---the only people who really believe your stories about it are your friends, and you won't gouge them ... the random dude answering your ad pretty much assumes you want to sell the bike because you can't fix it and you want to replace it.
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