Looking for classic bicycle frame
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Looking for classic bicycle frame
Are there bicycle frames that have both threadless headsets and downtube shifter bosses? I am interested in aluminum or carbon frames.
Cannondale is not an option because:
CAAD3 has downtube shifter bosses and threaded headset
CAAD4 has downtube cable stops, and a 1" threadless headset
Cannondale is not an option because:
CAAD3 has downtube shifter bosses and threaded headset
CAAD4 has downtube cable stops, and a 1" threadless headset
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Try clamp on shifter bosses like these.
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I'm big on aesthetics, and clamp on shifters are pretty gross to me. I'd be more likely to drill into aluminum on an old school cannondale with really thick guage aluminum. Although, I'd really like if I could find a modern more lightweight bicycle with shifter bosses.
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May we ask why the combo of threadless and downtube shifters?
Not a classic combo that drew a crowd in the past.
You can always get a classic frame (1970s and 80s) and find a stem adapter. I run a bike with a 1" threadless headset and full carbon fork, but haven't checked their availability lately.
Not a classic combo that drew a crowd in the past.
You can always get a classic frame (1970s and 80s) and find a stem adapter. I run a bike with a 1" threadless headset and full carbon fork, but haven't checked their availability lately.
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If the tubes are round, and that's a big IF these days, then it's ok, as the clamping force for shifters is minimal. My clamp-on FD on a round tubed fibre bike has been good for 17 years.
But what a kluge of a solution?!?
Have a carbon fibre bike? Several companies could add shifter bosses on the downtube, but that's not a cheap solution.
The conundrum here is that the industry moved away from DT shifters before adopting 1" threadless, and then quickly moved to 1 1/8" threadless. So 1" threadless is limited in supply (at the best) today. Wonky threaded to threadless adaptors are available, but @mraeryceos wants a classic look.
But what a kluge of a solution?!?
Have a carbon fibre bike? Several companies could add shifter bosses on the downtube, but that's not a cheap solution.
The conundrum here is that the industry moved away from DT shifters before adopting 1" threadless, and then quickly moved to 1 1/8" threadless. So 1" threadless is limited in supply (at the best) today. Wonky threaded to threadless adaptors are available, but @mraeryceos wants a classic look.
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#7
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I'm big on aesthetics, and clamp on shifters are pretty gross to me. I'd be more likely to drill into aluminum on an old school cannondale with really thick guage aluminum. Although, I'd really like if I could find a modern more lightweight bicycle with shifter bosses.
Or, go crazy and build your own. Some local colleges and Rec centers even have classes.
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Here's a custom that I had the builder add shifter bosses on the DT, if I would ever have that inclination. I haven't.
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I think threadless is a better solution because it's lighter. I like downtube shifters because of the simpler design, and the lighter weight. Also because I've used them in the past, and I like using them just as much as brifters. I already have a bicycle with brifters, and wouldn't have that one any other way. The bicycle I want to put together with downtube shifters would be my less expensive bicycle for getting around town, though I'll love it as well.
So I like everything that's modern, except the lack of shifter bosses. I guess everyone has their own special likes.
I don't care so much for the classic look, except I admire the old cannondales with thick guage aluminum because the frames are so robust. A good bike to get around town without worrying about dings when they are locked up to poles. The public may not be that careful with a bike locked up on a pole. But I also admire the modern frames being so light, and the carbon fiber frames look like an art sculpture. It's a tradeoff.
So I like everything that's modern, except the lack of shifter bosses. I guess everyone has their own special likes.
I don't care so much for the classic look, except I admire the old cannondales with thick guage aluminum because the frames are so robust. A good bike to get around town without worrying about dings when they are locked up to poles. The public may not be that careful with a bike locked up on a pole. But I also admire the modern frames being so light, and the carbon fiber frames look like an art sculpture. It's a tradeoff.
Last edited by mraeryceos; 09-09-17 at 10:26 PM.
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You're looking in a really narrow time range in the late 90's
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Any 1" threaded fork could potentially be replaced with a 1" threadless fork. Or, some people have cut the threads off of very long replacement stems.
A number of the vintage lugged CF frames came with DT shifter bosses, but many also had threaded stems.
Many of the vintage aluminum and carbon fiber frames used a shifter boss kit somewhat like this one:
NOVA LEVER BOSS KIT FOR AL FRAME :: SMALL PARTS :: BRAZON/SMALL PARTS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
It would be an irreversible change to your frame, but you could drill and mount the Nova bosses (perhaps with some filing of the bosses to match your frame's profile).
A number of the vintage lugged CF frames came with DT shifter bosses, but many also had threaded stems.
Many of the vintage aluminum and carbon fiber frames used a shifter boss kit somewhat like this one:
NOVA LEVER BOSS KIT FOR AL FRAME :: SMALL PARTS :: BRAZON/SMALL PARTS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.
It would be an irreversible change to your frame, but you could drill and mount the Nova bosses (perhaps with some filing of the bosses to match your frame's profile).
#15
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I'm pretty sure current Surly LHT and Crosschecks have threadless headsets and downtube shifter bosses. I know my 2010 Crosscheck does.
#16
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I think the Bianchi Eroica gives you that classic look. Unfortunately, not at a classic price.
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The downtube shifters keep me from constantly hunting for the right gear, as it involves removing a hand from the bars and reaching down, which is not too terribly difficult, but not optimal in traffic (I commute). On the other hand (no pun intended) I developed "achy" or "crampy" hands in my 40s, and having to take my hands off the bars to shift helps alleviate the discomfort. On my brifter bike and straight-bar MTB with cross-fire shifters I change hand positions every few minutes, so my hands aren't always by the shifters anyways.
The biggest problem I have with downtube shifters is after a week with the brifters I keep trying to twist the brake levers to shift on the older bike.
#18
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If you want a lifetime frame, remember that you'll get less flexible as you age. At 70, I was able to move my levers up to meet my needs precisely because I use clamp-ons. If I had braze-on bosses, shifting would be painful.
Of course, you didn't say you want a lifetime frame....
Of course, you didn't say you want a lifetime frame....
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Both frames are quality steel, have mostly classic lines, 1 1/8" threadless headsets, downtube shift stops brazed on, and have no proprietary design that will make it obsolete in a few years.
Surly and Soma also have frames in this style(all 3 brands are, I believe, made at Maxway), but the Black Mountain frames use a higher quality and lighter tubing than Surly and I also think than Soma(BMC tubing is heat threated while Soma's Tange Prestige isnt...i think).
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The OP mentions saving weight several times (threadless and DT shifters). Lightweight is an admirable goal but maybe these are not the best places to try to shave Ozs.
@mraeryceos, running tubular wheels? That's where weight counts. The threadless conversion I could (and did) justify for a bit more front end stiffness, and also the weight reduction, if you go 100% carbon on the fork. Changing shifters to save weight is not worth the hassle.
Sorry, but I have no idea on cost to weld Al bits. Not sure of the cosmetic effect/appearance of new welds on an Al frame.
Frankly, your goals seem a bit misplaced and certainly magnify the problem of finding a frame that fits and suits your riding needs. Go pick up a CLASSIC from the 70s or early 80s that fits and work on the engine.
531C or 531SL or SLX tubing = light & classic. Cinelli bars/stem = classic. Cloth bar tape = light & classic. Mavic GEL 280 tubular rims on Record hubs = light and classic. NR or SR derailleurs = classic racing stuff. Order up some drillium on chainrings = shave grams, stylish look.
Below = Before/After 1" threadless conversion with full carbon fork. Also switched from aero clincher wheels to lighter Al rims wearing Spec Turbo tubulars. Lighter saddle. Campy skeleton brakes to replace older Chorus, when time permits.
@mraeryceos, running tubular wheels? That's where weight counts. The threadless conversion I could (and did) justify for a bit more front end stiffness, and also the weight reduction, if you go 100% carbon on the fork. Changing shifters to save weight is not worth the hassle.
Sorry, but I have no idea on cost to weld Al bits. Not sure of the cosmetic effect/appearance of new welds on an Al frame.
Frankly, your goals seem a bit misplaced and certainly magnify the problem of finding a frame that fits and suits your riding needs. Go pick up a CLASSIC from the 70s or early 80s that fits and work on the engine.
531C or 531SL or SLX tubing = light & classic. Cinelli bars/stem = classic. Cloth bar tape = light & classic. Mavic GEL 280 tubular rims on Record hubs = light and classic. NR or SR derailleurs = classic racing stuff. Order up some drillium on chainrings = shave grams, stylish look.
Below = Before/After 1" threadless conversion with full carbon fork. Also switched from aero clincher wheels to lighter Al rims wearing Spec Turbo tubulars. Lighter saddle. Campy skeleton brakes to replace older Chorus, when time permits.
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Last edited by Wildwood; 09-11-17 at 03:31 PM.
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Thanks, and I'm in accord with everything you like. I wish I could rename the title, because I guess a classic look is not what I'm wanting. I just want downtube shifters because I like using them. Downtube shifters aren't for racing, since you can't shift out of saddle, but I'd like to have a modern racing bicycle with downtube shifters.
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Older steel classics.
Mondia Super with 531SL frameset
Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra with SLX frameset
DeRosa with SL/SLX
Running vintage tubular wheelsets on each as of today.
Mondia Super with 531SL frameset
Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra with SLX frameset
DeRosa with SL/SLX
Running vintage tubular wheelsets on each as of today.
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Craig Calfee will build you exactly what you want.
www.calfeedesign.com
The Luna model is no slouch as a starting point.
But accept integrated shifting and the world becomes your oyster.
Besides 1 1/8" headsets (or larger) offer more front end stability.
Why wish for anachronisms?
www.calfeedesign.com
The Luna model is no slouch as a starting point.
But accept integrated shifting and the world becomes your oyster.
Besides 1 1/8" headsets (or larger) offer more front end stability.
Why wish for anachronisms?
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Go tubular, your modern racing bike will spin-up much faster. And no need for expensive CF wheels when Al rims are decidedly less expensive.
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change the title = PM a moderator with your new Title.
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