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Old 07-06-05, 06:46 PM   #1
Eggplant Jeff
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What's up with this "lube" nonsense?

So, you mostly lube your chain, right? I'm not missing the boat on the fact that I should be lubing my rims or jerseys or something like that?

What the heck does it matter what lube you use? What's wrong with 10w30? Does it make that big a difference in resistance when riding or something? Or is it just that the waxes don't make your leg greasy?

It seems like there are 10,000 opinions on which one is best but I have not figured out why...

BTW Please don't turn this into a "well XYZ brand is the best" thread I'm trying to understand basics (oil vs teflon vs wax or whatever basic categories there are).
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Old 07-06-05, 07:03 PM   #2
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I clean and lube my chain\derailer pivots. I lube my cables.
I repack my hubs, headset with grease. I clean and repack my pedals.

For lube I use Pedros all purpose, for bearing grease I use Phil Woods.
No opinions..just what I do. 2 products for the whole bike.
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Old 07-06-05, 07:20 PM   #3
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Basically the difference is how long it lasts and how much crap it attracts. For example 10w30 works, but it will attract a lot of dirt. White lighning is pretty good at not attracting a lot of stuff, but it doesn't last as long.
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Old 07-06-05, 07:29 PM   #4
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i lube my chain, dr pulleys and pivots, brake pivots, cables, and occasionally shifters. haven't tried anything yet i like more than tri flow.
i grease my seatpost and saddle rails and pretty much anything with threads. mobil synth 1 for grease.
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Old 07-06-05, 07:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surferbruce
i grease my seatpost and saddle rails and pretty much anything with threads. mobil synth 1 for grease.
Saddle rails?? Why?
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Old 07-06-05, 08:00 PM   #6
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Didn't we just have a 7 or 8 page thread on this? Maybe that was the mechanic's forum...

Motor oil is intended to be used in closed systems. On chains, it runs off, and attracts tons of dirt.

Grease on fasteners like nuts, bolts, or anything threaded will prevent seizing, ease removal/adjustment, and prevent rust. Read the "how to remove seatpost stuck in frame" threads on the mechanic's forum for the price of not using a little grease.

Cables work more smoothly with a little grease applied now and then.
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Old 07-06-05, 08:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jur
Saddle rails?? Why?
It's a case of metal-on-metal (saddle rails on the seatpost clamp). They will move ever so slightly no matter how tightly you clamp the seatpost, which in turn can lead to squeaks.
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Old 07-06-05, 08:06 PM   #8
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Not so simple. I go on Wisconsin R to T (lime stone, sand). That stuff gums up all joints if you do not make an effort. Ordinary chain lubrication from hardware store will attract dust and above stuff to the point of affecting shifting of gears and wearing out chain and gears so you will hear and see it.
White Lightening minimizes this problem and I like to hear from anybody who knows better stuff. I tried to find some, believe me. This stuff is pricey.

Now to serious racing guys and girls I hang around with. They sure keep their Road bikes clean, don't they? Do they know what they are doing or do they have too much time on their hands? I believe the former. I own a $3,000 Road bike and keep it clean so it functions as designed. The chain derailer can be temperamental if not very clean.
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Old 07-06-05, 08:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggplant Jeff
So, you mostly lube your chain, right? I'm not missing the boat on the fact that I should be lubing my rims or jerseys or something like that?
Heh, in a bit of self-deprecating humor I asked the question how to thread a chain, I was trying to do it one-handed, and ended up with oil on my clothes, hands, arms, frame, rims, floor, neighbour's wife...

Of course a few cretins didn't spot the humor and thought I was serious...
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Old 07-06-05, 08:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggplant Jeff
What the heck does it matter what lube you use?
There's nothing wrong with the lube I use.
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Old 07-06-05, 08:52 PM   #11
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Any lube is far better than no lube at all.
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Old 07-06-05, 09:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinF
It's a case of metal-on-metal (saddle rails on the seatpost clamp). They will move ever so slightly no matter how tightly you clamp the seatpost, which in turn can lead to squeaks.
Dissimilar metals will, over time, nearly weld themselves together. It's always good to use anti-sieze compound, or just a little white lith grease, when reassembling.
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Old 07-07-05, 03:31 AM   #13
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I lube 1x per week. I enjoy it.
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Old 07-07-05, 05:15 AM   #14
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I have been using Dura-Lube in a spray can lately. Kind of like WD-40 but supposedly better, as it is a syntheic lube, etc.
What I like about it, is that it is very fluid like WD-40 when applied, so it really penetrates into the chain links. I do this after my rides, so the next day the mineral spirits in the lube has evaporated, and what is left, is a heavier thicker lube, basically like a heavy oil coating the whole chain. It doesn't come off either, and seems to run the chain very quietly and smoothly.
I also use eithe rchevron SRI2 grease or Phil Wood grease for headset etc.
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Old 07-07-05, 09:43 AM   #15
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its just a matter of personal preference, kinda like the ol' K-Y versus Astroglide debate. The K-Y is a little thicker and better for ...er ...and the Astroglide is a little more slippery and better for...uh never mind.
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