Double Crank... First Timer
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Double Crank... First Timer
I just picked up a new specialized sirrus elite, and I have never ridden a double chainring bike before (only triple MTBs). I have a few questions... firstly, the front shifter has three "clicks" available, I only use the tighest two and the bottom one just slacks the cable because the FD is already agianst the lower limit stop. Is this normal?
Also, I can hit about 4-5 cogs on my 8-spd cassette without chainrub on the FD. Obviously, the 4-5 largest cogs when on the small ring, and the 4-5 smallest cogs when on the large ring. Again, is this normal?
I appreciate any help. Thanks so much.
Also, I can hit about 4-5 cogs on my 8-spd cassette without chainrub on the FD. Obviously, the 4-5 largest cogs when on the small ring, and the 4-5 smallest cogs when on the large ring. Again, is this normal?
I appreciate any help. Thanks so much.
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I have the highest regard for Specialized bicycles. I owned a Rockhopper back in the day. That was before index shifters but I would think that they would know better than to put a three ring shifter on a two ring bike. Possibly it is hard finding two ring shifters these days like it is hard finding mice that fit serial ports. But yes, if the shifter had three positions the only way to keep the FD from shifting the chain off on the inside would be to use the low limit stop adjustment as appears has been done.
Different FD's have different profiles and will rub in different places. Rub after 5 cogs is possible. I understand some FD shifters have 'trim' adjustments for that reason. You might want to go back to your dealer and resolve any issues.
H
Different FD's have different profiles and will rub in different places. Rub after 5 cogs is possible. I understand some FD shifters have 'trim' adjustments for that reason. You might want to go back to your dealer and resolve any issues.
H
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I was thinking of adjusting it so that the loosest tension would have it resting on the lower limit stop and let me use the small chainring with the bigger cogs. Then the second index would move the FD a little to let me use the small ring and the smaller cogs. Then the third index would push the chain up to the larger ring and let me use the smaller cogs. Does this make sense? The idea is that I would have two small ring positions for the FD so I could go through the whole cassette. Anyone ever tried this?
#4
hello
You can take up a little of the FD cable slack by tweeking your barrel adjuster. Otherwise, your first click on your shifter is useless.
Last edited by roadfix; 10-23-05 at 05:24 PM.
#5
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Originally Posted by mooklekloon
I was thinking of adjusting it so that the loosest tension would have it resting on the lower limit stop and let me use the small chainring with the bigger cogs. Then the second index would move the FD a little to let me use the small ring and the smaller cogs. Then the third index would push the chain up to the larger ring and let me use the smaller cogs. Does this make sense? The idea is that I would have two small ring positions for the FD so I could go through the whole cassette. Anyone ever tried this?
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Originally Posted by mooklekloon
I was thinking of adjusting it so that the loosest tension would have it resting on the lower limit stop and let me use the small chainring with the bigger cogs. Then the second index would move the FD a little to let me use the small ring and the smaller cogs. Then the third index would push the chain up to the larger ring and let me use the smaller cogs. Does this make sense? The idea is that I would have two small ring positions for the FD so I could go through the whole cassette. Anyone ever tried this?
There are also some good wrenches over in the Bicycle Mechanics section, if you haven't already posed this question to them.
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Originally Posted by grolby
With indexed front shifting, each indexing stop is going to move the FD too far to be used for trimming. It's also just plain inadvisable to use the small chainring with the smallest cog or two, partly because it'll wear out your chain and cogs much faster, and partly because it just isn't a very efficient gear to pedal in. I would just leave things as they are.
Park Tools website will get you squared away like a cube. If you follow the directions there to the letter and do it step by step you will be rewarded with a system that will work as designed. If all else fails, you LBS can adjust them for you, but it's a good place to start doing repairs.
grolby is correct in that you shouldn't ride cross-chained (big / big or Small/Small). It puts additional stress on the chain, and generally not a good idea.
Steve W.
Who hates a poorly adjusted bike