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A dumb/naive question

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Old 11-04-05, 08:53 AM
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A dumb/naive question

I'm new to cycling--I just started this summer--and I'm currently riding a low-end Roadmaster bike, handed down from my dad. I'm perfectly willing to spend money (once I get some) on a fancier bike, but I've resolved not to spend money unless I understand why I'm spending it.

So here's my question: Is there any real advantage in spending $500-$600 on a new Trek or $800-$900 on a new Breezer to replace my sub-$100 Roadmaster? Are more expensive bikes worth the money? If so, why? I realize that I am exposing my ignorance here, but I would like some more insight before I spend money.

Note: So far, the Roadmaster has worked well (for just under 1000 miles). My short-term goal is to ride in the MS 150 next September; my long-term goal is to commute to work (once my kids no longer need me to drive them to school.) I'm not interested in racing; I'm more interested in getting and staying in shape.

Any comments would help. Thanks!
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Old 11-04-05, 09:08 AM
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Much lighter, Better components, better fit, better material, better everything.
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Old 11-04-05, 09:08 AM
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The answer is yes.

Better componets and a better ride. Consequently, I have found the nicer bikes less frustrating and easier to maintain than my old huffy. Plus, I can bike further in much less time.
My experience with the sub $100 bikes is that they fall apart way too much and you end up spending quite a bit of time trying to keep them running.

My current bike is a $500 hybrid. Eventually, I am looking at around $1500 for a decent road bike.
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Old 11-04-05, 09:30 AM
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Higher grade bikes are lighter and usually stronger than lower end ones. They use better grades of material and are built for more precision for better alignment. They moving bits last longer and are easier to maintain.
For commuting/light touring as opposed to racing, you may want to opt for a frame with more genrous tyre clearance and some threaded eyelets for rack and fender, otherwise you will have to hack around trying to clamp a heavier rack/fender onto some part of your bike never designed for the purpose.
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Old 11-04-05, 09:52 AM
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Thanks. I guess one reason I asked was that a lot of manufacturers' websites list components without explaining the advantages of the components. (Breezer was one exception; they explained, although briefly, why the Shimano Deore-equipped bike costs more than the Shimano Alivio-equipped model.)

I've seen this phenomenon with cars: car buyers will pick up terms from the manufacturers' advertisements and throw them around ("throttle-body fuel injection!!!") without understanding what they mean. They buy things that sound good, but they have no real understanding of what they've bought. I'd like to avoid this when I buy a new bike.

So, again, any insights would be helpful.
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Old 11-04-05, 10:03 AM
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Are you looking at a hybrid or a road/touring bike for commuting and event/charity rides?

With bikes, you generally get what you pay for... up to a point (and that point is different for different people). For example... a hypothetical $600-$700 aluminum road bike with a carbon fiber front fork and Shimano Sora/Tiagara components will be more than satisfactory for commuting, event rides and such.

After that, you run into the law of diminishing returns. You pay more for lighter, better, more blingy components. I'm not knocking aero wheels, Dura-ace components, carbon fiber brifters, $6000 titanium frames, etc. If you've got the money and the passion, buy it, ride it, and have fun. But you do reach a point at which you are shelling out a lot of money for not much gain in performance.

Here's my recommendation... only because I've been thinking about getting a new commuter bike next year, and I've been tossing around ideas. Get a cyclocross bike. These are sturdy bikes with drop handlebars like a road bike and fairly narrow tires.

They're designed for racing on a course that's a combination of road, XC mountain bike, and steeplechase. Riders even have to pick their bikes up and charge up hills and over obstacles. I know, it sounds like more fun than anyone should be legally allowed to have.

Because they're designed to be rugged, they can take just about anything a commute can toss at them. Yet they still have the geometry of a road bike. So they're perfect for a commute or a charity/event ride.

The downside? An entry-level cross bike is even more expensive than an entry-level Trek road bike.
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Old 11-04-05, 10:13 AM
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Do you have a local bike shop (frequently "LBS" on these boards) near you? If so, I'd recommend going in there on either a cold and dreary weekend day (should be some coming up), or in the middle of a week day, when the shop is not likely to be crowded. You want to go in at a time when the shopworkers can spend some time with you and chat a bit without anyone feeling too stressed or frazzled.

Go in there and explain to the salesperson just what you said in your first post, i.e., that you've been doing and enjoying a fair bit of riding on a relatively low-end bike, that there's no way you're going to be buying a new bike that very day, but that there's a pretty good chance that you might be fairly soon if you become convinced it's worthwhile.

A good salesperson in a good shop on a day that's not busy should be delighted to show you what they've got, to chat with you about what you've got and what the improvements would be, (you might consider taking your current bike in to show them), and to set up several models for short test rides around the shop. A bad salesman in a bad shop may belittle your current rig or try to hardsell you into buying something you're not ready for. It's perfectly OK to politely leave a shop like that, or at least to come back on a different day in hopes of finding a different salesperson if your shop options are limited.

Assuming you find a decent shopworker to talk to and that you can test ride a few bikes, note for yourself the differences between your current rig and what they're offering. The new bike may feel lighter and more responsive. Work the brakes. The new ones may be more powerful, stopping the bike quicker, more quietly, and more securely. Work through all the gears; try to ride some gentle hills around the shop if possible. You may find the better bike's gears shift quicker and more precisely. You may find a bike that fits your body better, or that for whatever reason just speaks to you in some way that tells you you've got to have it.

Or you may find that your current bike is just fine for what you want to do, and that you don't see any compelling reason to dump cash into a new one. That's fine too. It's your ride and you can get a good workout, get fit, or commute on any bike that's safe, reliable, and fun enough that you won't leave it sitting at home in the garage.

As you continue to ride you'll probably see more and more the advantages to higher quality mounts, but if you're enjoying what you've got you're right to believe that there's no reason to rush into something you don't understand.

Last edited by Big Helmet; 11-04-05 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 11-04-05, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Helmet
Assuming you find a decent shopworker to talk to and that you can test ride a few bikes, note for yourself the differences between your current rig and what they're offering. The new bike may feel lighter and more responsive. Work the brakes. The new ones may be more powerful, stopping the bike quicker, more quietly, and more securely. Work through all the gears; try to ride some gentle hills around the shop if possible. You may find the better bike's gears shift quicker and more precisely. You may find a bike that fits your body better, or that for whatever reason just speaks to you in some way that tells you you've got to have it.
The right bike shop is more important than the model of bike, as there is very little difference between similarly priced bikes. You can get a decent bike for less than $700 - see the tread at the top of the road bike forum, but for commuting you will also need a bike that can take a rack and fenders.
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Old 11-04-05, 12:11 PM
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An alternat to rjkresse's cyclecross bike is a touring bike. rugged as a cyclecross maybe heaver. The point is they have attachment points for fenders, racks, and water bottles. Mine is a Bianchi Vlope, but other companies make them look around when you are ready. Don't be in a hurry as long as the Roadmaster is working for what you want - you know if it ain't broke don't fix it.

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Old 11-04-05, 01:09 PM
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Buy a Trek and your body will tell you that the money was well spent. There just no comparising. It would be like comparing a Yugo to a Corvette. A Trek 1000 series will hold up for years to come. You will be able to get it serviced anywere you go. If you decide to get a better bike. Learn how to service it. This is a must on longer trips. Unless you like to walk. Break downs are prevented before you start your ride.
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Old 11-04-05, 02:10 PM
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If you are thinking about buying a new bike, keep one thing in mind;buy a bike that fits you and your riding style. It is easy to get caught up in all the hype that goes along with new bikes.
Do as much research as you can before you go into the bike shop. Do not be afraid to ask questions, and be honest with the salesperson about the type of riding you plan to do with the bike.

Look at rivbike.com for some enlightened reading on bike fit and function.
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Old 11-04-05, 02:39 PM
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Try this.

Pop over to a good bike shop and try one of the $500-and-up bikes you referenced. This should answer it for you. YEARS ago for me. this was a mule to racehorse experience. Weight. . .responsiveness. . .efficiency. . .joy of motion.
 
Old 11-04-05, 04:13 PM
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I believe the <$100 dept store bikes have done more to keep people away from cycling than many other factors. A ride on one of these bikes is often uncomfortable, parts of poor quality and maladjusted, squeaks, poor handling, etc. First timers on these bikes often can not understand why anyone would want to ride on something so awful and never advance to a better machine.
Get on a good quality machine and you can feel the difference in handling and quality.
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Old 11-05-05, 10:13 AM
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Thanks! You all have given me some good ideas. I'm in my research phase right now; I'm going to take my time and try to make a good, informed choice.

There aren't any bike shops in my county, but I'm just south of the Raleigh/Durham area, where there are several. So my next steo is to try to decide which one will work best for me.

Again, thanks. I appreciate your patience with a newbie.
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Old 11-05-05, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mild Al
I'm new to cycling--I just started this summer--and I'm currently riding a low-end Roadmaster bike, handed down from my dad. I'm perfectly willing to spend money (once I get some) on a fancier bike, but I've resolved not to spend money unless I understand why I'm spending it.
Well, there's features and there's quality. Those are two entirely different things.

Within a pretty narrow range, all bicycles have the same features.

Quality, as it pertains to bicycles, generally comes down to better materials, smoothless of operation, reliability, and ease of repair. Low quality bikes tend to have a lot of machining burrs and such so that, when you try to adjust them, the parts don't move initially and then overshoot the sweet spot that you're looking for. Not just every component, but every screw and nut on every component of a $800.00 Trek will be of better quality than the equivlent part on your Roadmaster.

Is the difference worth the difference in price? That's up to you to decide but it definitely is to me.
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Old 11-07-05, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mild Al
Thanks. I guess one reason I asked was that a lot of manufacturers' websites list components without explaining the advantages of the components. (Breezer was one exception; they explained, although briefly, why the Shimano Deore-equipped bike costs more than the Shimano Alivio-equipped model.)

I've seen this phenomenon with cars: car buyers will pick up terms from the manufacturers' advertisements and throw them around ("throttle-body fuel injection!!!") without understanding what they mean. They buy things that sound good, but they have no real understanding of what they've bought. I'd like to avoid this when I buy a new bike.

So, again, any insights would be helpful.
Mate, get yourself a new bike because you deserve one. It will get you back into shape so you'll be around for your kids as they get older. You'll also be setting a good example for them. And throttle body fuel injection was absolute crap.
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