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  1. #1
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    Painting, How do you do it?

    Hey everyone,

    I am in the process of fixing up my dads 1970- something Dawes Galaxy road bike. I am planning on painting it deep blue or purple or something like that and maybe painting the luggs silver. I did a search on painting and found a few helpful treads.

    I see that other people have had good results with paint cans and elbow grease.

    My dad has an air compressor and paint ***,(never used the paint *** before).
    I was wondering if I would get better, easier or cheaper results with the compressor or a paint can, I would think that you would have more color options if you use the compressor, but am just guessing.

    As for the luggs would I mask the rest of the bike and spray them too, or paint them by hand? And do you know of a good shiny paint that would pass as crome or silver for the luggs?

    One last thing, the headbadge is rivited on and I was wondering if I should just mask it or what.



    Thanks, Paul
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  2. #2
    Donating member Richard D's Avatar
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    For the badge I'd try melting candlewax and painting it over with that before spraying.

    If you're hand painting the lugs, try your local model/hobby shop for model enamels.

    Richard
    Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)

  3. #3
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    I took the paint right off my bike when I repainted it, but you may want to leave the factory undercoat on.
    Finnagans no 9 is a good primer.

    Aim for speckled rather than complete coverage with each coat, to avoid glooping into drops.

    You can use Hammerite in a spray ***, if you thin it. It makes for a very tough finish. They make a dull silver metallic, but it doesnt pass for chrome. A bronze coloured paint may look cool.Ive used hammerite to touch up.

    I just used a standard spray can from an auto shop. The paint is looking a bit ragged at stress points (chainstay, top of the seat stays) after 5 years.
    Dont forget to fit a protector to the top of the painted chainstay, and give the clean painted frame a few coats of car wax.

  4. #4
    Senior Member mike's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Richard D
    For the badge I'd try melting candlewax and painting it over with that before spraying.

    If you're hand painting the lugs, try your local model/hobby shop for model enamels.

    Richard
    Actually, based on my experience, the hobby enamels don't hold up well to UV light, cleaning, polishing, and waxing

    I have not found any metalic paint that really looks like metal. Don't try to fake it as it looks chinzy.

    I suggest you spray paint the whole bike one color and then hand paint an accent such as metalic gold or brass paint around the joint of the lug. This is traditional and looks sharp without being gawdy.

    Paint cans work well - for want of a spray *** and compressor. If you have a spray *** and compressor, you can get better paints from auto paint specialists.
    Mike

  5. #5
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    Hey guys (an gals) I'm BACK
    Jeepers, look at yous' gyes' post counts. I feel like I'm standing on giants or somat.

    Chinzy, (Cheap or Showy) HeHe, Paul has learned a new word

    For the badge I'd try melting candlewax and painting it over with that before spraying.
    Capital Idea! I was trying to think of something that I could put on there that would harden but not be too hard to get off. I was thinking elmers glue or something but hot wax seems to be just the ticket.

    I was planning on taking all the paint off but am starting to rethink it. If the paint I put on gets scratched then the factory coat would offer like a second line of defense right? As long as it doesn't get scratched too bad, but then, thats what fingernail polish was invented for right?

    Is there an advantage to stripping all of the paint off? Well, I guess there must be, thats what the pros do right, but then, they probably use a different paint than I do. Oh well, I don't know.

    BRASS, that sounds perfect, man! You guys are genioses!
    I especially like the idea of just accenting the joints,
    maybe some curvy pinstripe going across the top tube and whatever that other angledey bar is that comes down from the head tube.
    Oh I can see it already.

    I was browsing through my bike catalogs to see if there were any bike colors I liked and voala! A Lemond I will post pics in a min, and also one of the old one to see what you think.


    Mack in a Bin, Paul
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    Here is the Dawes, I am going to take the bearing cup and lockring out, going to try and put a couple of small pin punches in a vise and see if I can get it off, otherwise I guess I will have to get the special tool.
    Will probably just mask the races in the head tube.
    Last edited by Hawkster; 10-16-02 at 12:23 PM.
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  7. #7
    Kev
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    If you do a search on car painting, you can find some great information. It's a bit different but should be the same principle.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    And here's the bike after I got done with it .



    I really like this color and I think it will go good with the polished brass.
    Last edited by Hawkster; 10-16-02 at 12:24 PM.
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    Is anyone else able to see the pics?
    [IMG]C:\My Documents\My Pictures\Bike stuff\Dawes Frame.jpg[/IMG]
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    Alrighty now, I think I've got this image posting thing down pat.

    This is the color I would like the bike to be.
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  11. #11
    Senior Member MeHT's Avatar
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    Uh...
    You don't put the images that are on your hard drive in the [img] tag. You need to upload them to a website first. Or just attach them liek you did with the last one.
    Prepare for the worst - that way any surprise will be a pleasant one.

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    You cant just paint on top of the existing metal, the paint wont bind properly.
    You need to take the top coat of paint off with some emery cloth, but you will see the light coloured undercoat beneath. Leave the existing undercoat where possible, but take it down to the metal where rust is showing. The rear traingle looks to be chromed. Its quite tricky to get paint to adhere to chrome, so be careful what you take off there.
    You then need to put primer over the whole bike. Careful you dont paint inside the seat-tube, but I did give the fork steerer and undercoat.


    I used a wire coat-hanger to suspend the bike.
    Last edited by MichaelW; 10-16-02 at 12:48 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Hawkster's Avatar
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    Hey

    I got in a few hours worth of sanding today. I tried just sanding it down to the primer but I didn't like the results so I went ahead and took all the paint off. I think your right about the chrome rear end Mike, I didn't see your post until I was done. The factory paint was coming right off when I was sanding, It didn't take hardly any provocation at all to get it to come off, I guess I'll have to ruff the metal up extra hard or something before priming. well here is my progress, I'll have to get around the lugs a little better with a wire brush and dremmel tool.

    Do you know where I should go for paint/primer? Lowes, Home Depot? There is an auto paint shop just up the road that I am planning on paying a visit.

    And do you think I should spray WD-40 on the frame to protect from flash rust, then clean with degreaser before priming? Or just sand again just before priming.
    Three wheels do not a bicycle make.

  14. #14
    suitcase of courage VegasCyclist's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Hawkster
    Hey

    I got in a few hours worth of sanding today. I tried just sanding it down to the primer but I didn't like the results so I went ahead and took all the paint off. I think your right about the chrome rear end Mike, I didn't see your post until I was done. The factory paint was coming right off when I was sanding, It didn't take hardly any provocation at all to get it to come off, I guess I'll have to ruff the metal up extra hard or something before priming. well here is my progress, I'll have to get around the lugs a little better with a wire brush and dremmel tool.

    Do you know where I should go for paint/primer? Lowes, Home Depot? There is an auto paint shop just up the road that I am planning on paying a visit.

    And do you think I should spray WD-40 on the frame to protect from flash rust, then clean with degreaser before priming? Or just sand again just before priming.
    perhaps I can help a bit here.... I worked for a while in a body shop, and basically the way the paint cars is almost the same as for bikes (except sometimes they bake bike frames) but anyhow use the spray *** and the compressor, you will get much better results. Secondly now that you have sanded to the metal you will want to take a higher grit paper and smooth out the scratches that have been put in by removing the paint (300 or so should do the trick) next you might want to buy some glazing putty to clean up any major scractes or blemishes to the frame (use very very very thin coats of the stuff, it's only supposed to cover up blemishes before painting) if you do put some on, sand it down smooth with the 300 grit paper and you should be ready to primer.

    at this point you want to tape up any areas that are crome (couldn't tell from the pic) with some regular masking tape, make sure to carefully take edges so the paint does not make a weird edge when the masking tape is removed.

    buy a 'tac rag' do not use wd-40 a tac rag will remove all material from the frame (make sure you wipe it down really good.) then apply the primer (there will be mixing instructions on the primer can) apply two coats, just to make sure that you have covered the frame thoroughly. Let the frame dry at least 8 hours to 1 day day, if you see any mistakes on the frame, now is the time to correct them (glazing putting, addition sanding) or you may want to reprimer if you messed up the first time.

    Now on to painting, again get a tac rag clean the frame, and mix your paint (depending on the paint, you may need thinner, and a catalyst) spray the frame keeping a distance from the surface with the spray *** of about 6-7 inches try to not go further then this or you may come out with a 'dusty' feel to the paint. paint with two coats, at least, making sure to paint everything you want. Allow to dry 8 hrs - 1 day,

    paint again but this time with clear coat, (again mixing on the can) apply 2 -3 coats, if you mess up with the clear coat... don't worry, buy some 1600-2100 grit sand paper and sand the clear coat with water, and then you can buff it out (this is why 2-3 coats are prefered.)

    all of these supplies should be available at a auto paint supply store, it probably will not be cheap (depending on the paint, but some pearl paints can cost up to $200-300 per gallon!) you also might want to buy a book on auto painting, as it will go into way more detail on what I just summerized... there are other things that should be considered, such as spray shape and how much air should be in the spray etc, this would be covered in a book. Good luck and I hope this helps...
    -VegasCyclist
    "Daddy made whiskey and he made it well.... cost two dollars and it burned like hell...."
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