Thule Rook Rack Question -
#1
Retro-nerd
Thread Starter
Purchasing a Thule Roof Rack System. Basic Rack will consist of 300 Gutter Foot Pack and LB50 Load Bars.
Bicycle: Surly Crosscheck
This is my first time installing a roof rack on my car.
Listed below are three carriers. Which carrier should I choose? After reading the information on the Thule website my first selection would be the 598 Criterium. Makes sense?
Also, if any of you have personal experience with the Thule Roof Rack, please comment.
If you have shopped and know the lowest internet price, please list.
599xtr - Big Mouth Upright
598 - Criterium
591 - Long Tray Classic
Thanks, for taking the time to consider my post.
Bicycle: Surly Crosscheck
This is my first time installing a roof rack on my car.
Listed below are three carriers. Which carrier should I choose? After reading the information on the Thule website my first selection would be the 598 Criterium. Makes sense?
Also, if any of you have personal experience with the Thule Roof Rack, please comment.
If you have shopped and know the lowest internet price, please list.
599xtr - Big Mouth Upright
598 - Criterium
591 - Long Tray Classic
Thanks, for taking the time to consider my post.
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Last edited by georgiaboy; 02-16-06 at 04:48 AM.
#2
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I own, and personally prefer the Thule - item three in your post. The bikes seem more secure to me, they are held in place by the same forks that were designed to sustain the forces (greater by far) exerted upon the system when you ride your bike - no arms or clamps around your frame, bikes are held in place much more securely - no chance for them to wobble.
My opinion.
Good luck.
Caruso
My opinion.
Good luck.
Caruso
#3
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With a road bike I would go for the 591 since it's no problem removing the front wheel and clamping to the rack is very secure. For MTB's a would tilt to the other two.
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I've been using a Thule roof rack system for about 10 years. I have two of the third type you pictured (They used to call it a Velovise) and a tandem mount. I'm partial to the fork mount type because it's easy to operate with one hand and I think that it holds the bike more stably.
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We have the 1st and 3rd options. The 1st is nice since you don't need to remove the wheel, but the fork clamp is the best. Very secure and easy. I would add a fairing as well, really cuts down on wind noise.
John
John
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I have used the big mouth for the last two years - like it alot - works well with all my bikes and my girlfriend's big retro cruiser type bike too.
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Originally Posted by Carusoswi
I own, and personally prefer the Thule - item three in your post. The bikes seem more secure to me, they are held in place by the same forks that were designed to sustain the forces (greater by far) exerted upon the system when you ride your bike - no arms or clamps around your frame, bikes are held in place much more securely - no chance for them to wobble.
My opinion.
Good luck.
Caruso
My opinion.
Good luck.
Caruso
If the front wheel is removed to allow the fork to be mounted, where do you store the front wheel?
That's to say, if I have 2 bikes and want to use the 591 rack, then where to both of the front wheels go?
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by cwr2427
If the front wheel is removed to allow the fork to be mounted, where do you store the front wheel?
That's to say, if I have 2 bikes and want to use the 591 rack, then where to both of the front wheels go?
Thanks.
That's to say, if I have 2 bikes and want to use the 591 rack, then where to both of the front wheels go?
Thanks.
Caruso
#9
Senior Member
I used the fork mounts for about 15 years and now use the Big Mouth uprights. Not having to take front wheel off is a big advantage if you have to deal with any of the following conditions:
1. Big tire, narrow rim that requires deflating the tire to get past the brake blocks.
2. Same as 1 where you have to disassemble the front brake.
3. Back of front fender hits tray.
4. Any bike that uses anti-quick release measures on front q/r.
5. Other people's bikes you are unfamiliar with.
6. Small children's bikes or a Trail-a-Bike.
I've had to deal with all these things at one time or another. Once you have the roof rack you become the designated bike hauler for your family and circle of friends.
The fork mounts are secure but I've witnessed two instances where the fork mount q/r let go. When you are riding a bike your weight is pushing down on the axle and the importance of q/r grip only comes into play when you hit a big bump or hop over something and the q/r has to hold the weight of the wheel. On a roof rack the wind coming off your windshield is pushing the bike upward and the q/r mount has to hold the bike down, a lot. When it slips out you are guaranteed some scratched car paint and the need for a new rear bike wheel. I recommend a bungee cord up over the front of the bike as insurance. Anytime you have to deal with carrying bikes with different thickness forks where you have to readjust the q/r tension the opportunity to get it wrong comes up.
The upright mount has its own issues. Where the rubber jaws grip your downtube it can rub your paint off if you have old thin paint or delicate decals. This can be made worse if you don't slip the derailleur cables into the recesses provided in the jaws. When you lift the bike up it weighs more with the front wheel on.
1. Big tire, narrow rim that requires deflating the tire to get past the brake blocks.
2. Same as 1 where you have to disassemble the front brake.
3. Back of front fender hits tray.
4. Any bike that uses anti-quick release measures on front q/r.
5. Other people's bikes you are unfamiliar with.
6. Small children's bikes or a Trail-a-Bike.
I've had to deal with all these things at one time or another. Once you have the roof rack you become the designated bike hauler for your family and circle of friends.
The fork mounts are secure but I've witnessed two instances where the fork mount q/r let go. When you are riding a bike your weight is pushing down on the axle and the importance of q/r grip only comes into play when you hit a big bump or hop over something and the q/r has to hold the weight of the wheel. On a roof rack the wind coming off your windshield is pushing the bike upward and the q/r mount has to hold the bike down, a lot. When it slips out you are guaranteed some scratched car paint and the need for a new rear bike wheel. I recommend a bungee cord up over the front of the bike as insurance. Anytime you have to deal with carrying bikes with different thickness forks where you have to readjust the q/r tension the opportunity to get it wrong comes up.
The upright mount has its own issues. Where the rubber jaws grip your downtube it can rub your paint off if you have old thin paint or delicate decals. This can be made worse if you don't slip the derailleur cables into the recesses provided in the jaws. When you lift the bike up it weighs more with the front wheel on.
#10
Retro-nerd
Thread Starter
I have used the Criterium as show below for six months. So far, there have been no scratches, abrasions, or chipped paint. No surface marks whatsoever. However, I have been doing what was suggested above in that I have used bungee cords (the strong rubber ones) so that I dont' have to really crank down on the rubber jaws for the attachement. 1 or 2 bungee cords applied to hold the bike downward toward the roof. The rubber jaws then only serve the purpose of a vertical hold.
598 - Criterium
598 - Criterium
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Would you like a dream with that?
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