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Old 02-19-06, 05:15 AM   #1
Dr.Deltron
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Old 02-19-06, 09:14 AM   #2
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Do you know anything about this stuff? http://tinyurl.com/9ctcy

I understand that it's very durable. Not having to buy reducer appeals to me.
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Old 02-19-06, 02:49 PM   #3
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File Type: jpg dragon3.jpg (77.9 KB, 298 views)

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Old 02-19-06, 04:40 PM   #4
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By the way, the simpler link is this;

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html
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Old 02-19-06, 06:22 PM   #5
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Tell me about your spray equipment.

I just received the last of the decals I needed, so I'm planning to paint my wife's Peugeot this spring. I've got a Devilbiss JGA-502 with a Sharpe cup. My compressor is a 5hp with a 30 gallon tank. I have a water filter in the air line. I also have a Badger 200 air brush with its own little compressor. I hate to buy any more equipment, but I'm afraid that the big gun puts out too much paint and the air brush puts out too little. Should I be looking for a detail gun? Most of my spraying experience has been with varnish on wood.
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Old 02-19-06, 06:32 PM   #6
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I've seen some paint mentioned in other threads that has reflective glass beads in it. I've thought about doing something like this: Repaint the frame with the color I want, apply a coat of the refective paint, apply clear coat over that.

My question is, will the glass beads cause damage to the other paint layers as the frame flexes?
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Old 02-19-06, 08:40 PM   #7
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Below is my post in a different forum... if you have any suggestions as to how to do this, esecially the chrome painting/removal, I'd be glad to hear them!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by iBarna
My bike is based on a Bottecchia steel frame from the 60's. The frame seems chromed, and it's painted over with a blue paint, except the fork ends and the chain-/seatstay ends. The bike is great, but the frame is pretty beat up, and I see rust in places.

I would like to strip the frame and repaint it to a non-glossy black. I have no time or place to do any of the work myself. I have heard the praises of powder coating, which is what I would like to do, but I also have heard that stripping chrome is problematic. Anyone has experience with this?

And what are good places in San Francisco to get a bike frame powder coated or painted?

Your input is appreciated.
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Old 02-19-06, 08:58 PM   #8
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Old 02-19-06, 09:07 PM   #9
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Old 02-19-06, 09:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Haven't had experience with reflective glass beads. Only problem I can forsee is that the clear coat will have to be applied in 3-6 coats to smooth over the beads. I put beach sand on a frame once and then put 6 coats of clear, let it dry, sanded with wet 320, then 4 more coats of clear. Sorry, I didn't get pictures of that one. I did however just pick up a jar of Old School Flake's Micro Prism #005. I saw it on a truck at the paint store and had to get some. $30 4oz jar. They also has some AWESOME pearl chunks that I hope to try soon. $110 2oz jar. The micro prism is just that; idy biddy prisms that reflect a rainbow of colors. Can't wait to see what it looks like on a bike.
If you have a link to the supplier or Mfgr of the glass beads, I'd like to know more.
Thanks & good luck with that.
Ciao,
Dr.d
Here's one, here's another one that may be similar. There may be more out there...
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Old 02-20-06, 10:59 AM   #11
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Old 02-20-06, 01:16 PM   #12
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Great feedback on painting. I dove feetfirst into my first major painting job (see Barracuda Mk.I below) which came out decently for the materials used (Duplicolor cans). Ended up putting on 3 coats of clear on my finished frame, though never did get the smoothness and depth I wanted.

Of the paints that are avaliable to the general public - what types / brands are the most durable? My next paint I'd like to have a finished product that I'm not scared to death to lean against anything and everything that could possibly mark the finish. I understand that powdercoat near the top - but not exactly something you can do in your garage over a few weeks time.

Fantastic work on the frame above btw.
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Old 02-20-06, 03:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
Anybody need help painting their trusty steed? I'm happy to answer any cycle related painting Q's.
'Been paintin since '72 so I've probably made every mistake in the book and then some. I truly understand the old adage; measure twice, cut once!
So I can help you avoid alot of those foibles, let me know.
Ciao 4 Now,
Dr.D
What sorts of potential problems should one be aware of when using an airbrush on round tubes as opposed to a flat surface? Any tips of DIY airbrush bicycle painters?

Also, I've recently had a discussion on using polyurethanes intended for woodworking (such as Varathane) as a clearcoat for bicycles. Do you know anything about this topic? What is a safe alternative to two-part clearcoats that has greater durability than a rattle-can?

That dragon-scale frame looks fantastic. Thanks!
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Old 02-20-06, 04:42 PM   #14
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Iím trying to get the paint off an old Cannondale frame. I tested a small area and the stripper seemed to work but I could tell that itís going to be a long process to get both the (messed up) paint and the undercoat completely off.

This is what Iím using:
Kleen Strip KS-3 Semi-Paste Paint Remover
(This gallon of paint stripper has been in my basement for a few years.)

Is this the best Ė or nearly the best -- chemical stripper?

Great job on the dragon frame, Doc.
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Old 02-20-06, 06:20 PM   #15
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Dr. Deltron-just the person I need.How can you tell if a defect will show thru paint.I just steel-wool-600 grit papered out a rust spot on a steel framed bike.There is just a hint-barely a pinpoint-of the original defect left.How can I tell if the defect will or won't show thru new paint?
I dabbed on some spray enamel that I "caught" on a piece of foil.It didn't show after a day,and 2 dab coats.I have my doubts about this method of testing.
Does the surface have to be perfect ,or will paint cover tiny defects?I know with chrome plating,the surface has to be perfect.Thanks.Charlie
PS The reason I would settle for a less than perfect surface is that hand steel-wool-600 grit sandpaper is very hard work!I don't want to do more than is necessary to get a good result(or take off more metal than is necessary)
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Old 02-20-06, 11:59 PM   #16
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Old 02-21-06, 12:30 AM   #17
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Old 02-21-06, 01:05 AM   #18
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Old 02-21-06, 01:27 AM   #19
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Thanks, Doc.

Iím a little scared to use anything as rough as a steel wire brush on the Aluminum frame. I thought using something like a green ď3M Scotch BriteĒ pad would be abrasive enough to loosen anything thatís ready to come off without scratching the frame material. Iím going to try your technique of brushing only in one direction.

Is there a downside to leaving the stripper on too long? Iíve heard that but never had the problem.

Iíve had a lot of fun working with Bondo Ė one of my favorite materials for auto, home and art projects. See my avatar? Itís a mask (part of a Halloween costume from 2002) based on the character ďNo-FaceĒ from the movie Spirited Away. Iíve made Bondo-over-cardboard masks for the last four Halloweens.

Great fun.
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Old 02-21-06, 01:31 AM   #20
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Old 02-21-06, 07:18 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFreddy
Iím going to try your technique of brushing only in one direction.

Is there a downside to leaving the stripper on too long? Iíve heard that but never had the problem.
Another trick with stripper is to start working on the frame on a large plastic garbage bag. Have another bag handy, and when you are finished with applying the stripper, lay the frame on the first garbage bag and cover it with the other. This way, the stripper (even if applied incorrectly) will stay open much longer, and will have more time to attack the finish underneath. I got off the original finish of an 80's Cannondale this way, and it only took one pass with stripper.

Doc, thanks for the Miniwax recommendation. I've tried others of similar makeup, and I noticed that they either dried too fast, or if I could get heavy wet coats onto the frame, they would leave behind a bluish cast on yellows, reds, golds, etc. BryE and myself have been trying to find a suitable waterbased clearcoat for some time now, and have yet to discover anything worthwhile. Maybe I will try the Minwax after I try another type that I just receieved.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
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Old 02-21-06, 11:13 AM   #22
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What do you use to clean your gun after using one of the two-part automotive paints? I'd hate to have to use reducer for that purpose. It's expensive stuff.
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Old 02-21-06, 01:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duane041
Another trick with stripper is to start working on the frame on a large plastic garbage bag. Have another bag handy, and when you are finished with applying the stripper, lay the frame on the first garbage bag and cover it with the other. This way, the stripper (even if applied incorrectly) will stay open much longer, and will have more time to attack the finish underneath. I got off the original finish of an 80's Cannondale this way, and it only took one pass with stripper.
Thanks, Duane Ė the two-garbage-bag idea sounds good.

My Cannondale has plastic cable guides which Iím afraid to try to remove for fear of breaking them. Did your bike have those and if so, did you remove them? I was thinking of just working around them with the stripper very carefully.

This has been a very helpful thread. My upcoming big project is the old (1990) Cannondale touring bike. It has over 45,000 miles (just the frame) and lots of life left in it.
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Old 02-21-06, 02:09 PM   #24
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Here's a fun one for you - paint code for the classic 'Marina blue' color often seen on vintage Chevy muscle cars. (Starting a collection of blue paint codes to choose from for future projects. )
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Old 02-21-06, 02:28 PM   #25
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Dr Deltron-thanks for the info.I'm actually planning to redo the entire frame,not just spots.The original paint looked nice-pretty blue-but it was always soft.It is still soft now almost 30 years removed from the factory.I can scratch it easily with my fingernail,so everywhere there was a metal clamp,the paint failed on Mr Rust set up camp.
Nice Dragon-I would hate to guess how many hrs that work of art was.Thanks.Charlie
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