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Old 08-25-06, 12:53 AM   #1
Blue Order
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Touch-up paint

I've decided to take the plunge and do the touch-up work on a couple of bikes that only have the odd nick here and there.

Any tips/suggestions? I'd like it to blend in as much as possible, so I'd like to avoid big ugly clumps of paint that look like it's been touched-up. How do I get it to blend in as smoothe as possible? Paint, sand, clear-coat? Some other technique? What do I use to apply the paint?

What about prep work?

Anything else I should be aware of/do when I do the touch-ups?
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Old 08-25-06, 03:18 AM   #2
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use nail polish on the nicks. lots of colors to choose from; should be one the color of your bike. I prefer a real small artist brush but the one that comes with the polish works OK.
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Old 08-25-06, 07:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gear
use nail polish on the nicks. lots of colors to choose from; should be one the color of your bike. I prefer a real small artist brush but the one that comes with the polish works OK.
+1
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Old 08-25-06, 08:03 AM   #4
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If you can find a matching color of Testors paint for model airplanes, cars etc., it makes a good, tough touch-up paint. Nail polish is a good choice too.
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Old 08-25-06, 09:06 AM   #5
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I went to the auto supply shop and picked up some touch up there and some clear coat. Dont laugh but I use a toothpick to apply it by "dotting it". Comes out nice and flat and no brush marks. Dot again with clear coat. It won't chip off like nail poish does over time.
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Old 08-25-06, 11:35 AM   #6
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Well, one of my bikes is celeste, , and I just found a manufacturer who supplies celeste touch-up paint.

The other bike is yellow, and Rustoleum has several yellows available, at least a few of which seem like a good match. I just need to get that bike on the road (hard to ride with no seat post or saddle) so I can ride it to the hardware store for a match.

Thanks!
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Old 08-25-06, 12:16 PM   #7
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Here is my techique for "keeping up appearances" on both of my folding bikes since they are far more prone to nicks and scratches than my other regular bikes were.

I go to a local model train store (a hobby store, crafts store, auto paint store, large discount center like Target or Walmart, will do fine) and bought some paint made for metal application and turpentine to thin the paint and clean the brush.

Here is what I do:

Matching Paint made for metal work
turpentine
smaller fine brush (end should be small enough to cover smaller areas)
newspaper or drop cloth (to protect work area)
Bond typing or computer paper to test paint and to clean brush after
paper towels

1. I check the frame periodically for some dings or scratches.

2. If there is some damage, I correct the problem right away before rust sets in.

3. I pour a small amount of paint into the cap. With my brush I check to see if the paint is too thin (runny like water and would not stay put on frame-let dry a little bit-but not too long) or too thick (can't be moved about or poured easily- dab a little turpentine with the brush to gently thin it to the right consistency)

4. Test the paint by loading your brush up with paint and paint the bond paper first before you actually go on the frame

5. Then load up your brush and quickly fill in the damaged area with paint, taking care to blend the edges for a smooth effect.

6. Clean brush with the turpentine by working it out of the hairs by dipping the paper towel in the turpentine, then wiping the brush in the paper towel, switching to and "paint" the bond paper until the paint is cleaned off the brush and the paint no longer shows up on the bond paper. When the paint is all worked out shape the brush into it's original shape and let dry. Store the brush in a protected area like a clean plastic bag. Let stand overnight (about 24 hours). Repeat steps 3-5 until the paint is level with the surrounding undamaged original paint job.
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