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Old 10-26-07, 01:27 AM   #1
Sportsman9
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Pray for me

One of these days, I will hopefully succeed in removing my bike's platform pedals which are seemingly STUCK ON WITH CONCRETE; then I can install some with toe clips and also try out PowerGrips and get on with my cycling.

Yes I know you bend the wrench down towards the back. Believe me, I have read everything there is to read about pedal removal. I have tried one pedal wrench, pretty useless, and have put in an order for a bigger pedal wrench.

Tried:
* tapping the crankarms
* using WD-40, though how you really are supposed to get it IN THERE, is a bit of a mystery.
* pouring boiling water over it
* heating for 10 mins with a candle held 1/2 inch away.
* pushing yet harder on the pedal wrench. I think they were originally put on with CRAZY GLUE. I practically have broken my wrists trying to get any semblance of something turning.

Next project is to heat for 20 or so mins with the candle, and try the big-ass pedal wrench when it arrives.
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Old 10-26-07, 01:43 AM   #2
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Why not try a new crankset?
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Old 10-26-07, 03:00 AM   #3
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Why not try a new crankset?
...or maybe a good bike shop. Any quality shop will give it a shot, especially if your going to buy some new pedals.
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Old 10-26-07, 06:04 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Sportsman9 View Post
One of these days, I will hopefully succeed in removing my bike's platform pedals which are seemingly STUCK ON WITH CONCRETE; then I can install some with toe clips and also try out PowerGrips and get on with my cycling.

Yes I know you bend the wrench down towards the back. Believe me, I have read everything there is to read about pedal removal. I have tried one pedal wrench, pretty useless, and have put in an order for a bigger pedal wrench.

Tried:
* tapping the crankarms
* using WD-40, though how you really are supposed to get it IN THERE, is a bit of a mystery.
* pouring boiling water over it
* heating for 10 mins with a candle held 1/2 inch away.
* pushing yet harder on the pedal wrench. I think they were originally put on with CRAZY GLUE. I practically have broken my wrists trying to get any semblance of something turning.

Next project is to heat for 20 or so mins with the candle, and try the big-ass pedal wrench when it arrives.

Carefully placed hammer blows to the end of the wrench. Or a cheater bar (I usually use a piece of pipe) over the end of the wrench for more leverage. But the hammer blows tend to work best, there's nothing like impact. Hit it hard, but just don't miss.

Last edited by well biked; 10-26-07 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 10-26-07, 07:09 AM   #5
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Didn't even try carnkaarms in a vice with breaker bar on the pedal wrench...?
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Old 10-26-07, 07:41 AM   #6
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Take it to a good LBS. I tried pretty much everything I could manage to remove a set of stuck pedals for a few days.
Took it to a local bike shop and 20 min later they were unstuck. It cost all of $10.
If I had know that at the start I would have taken it there in the first place instead of wasting 2 days.
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Old 10-26-07, 07:53 AM   #7
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Take it to a good LBS. I tried pretty much everything I could manage to remove a set of stuck pedals for a few days.
Took it to a local bike shop and 20 min later they were unstuck. It cost all of $10.
If I had know that at the start I would have taken it there in the first place instead of wasting 2 days.
You should've asked them what they did, then the experience would've been worth 2 days. A bike shop isn't some magical place that fixes bikes they do what you and I can do. Sometimes you just don't have the tools to do it.
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Old 10-26-07, 07:54 AM   #8
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I don't think a candle is going to provide enough heat over a large enough area. You need careful and judicious application of a torch followed by a solid pedal wrench with big ass cheater pipe and possible a few hammer blows.

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Old 10-26-07, 07:58 AM   #9
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You should've asked them what they did, then the experience would've been worth 2 days. A bike shop isn't some magical place that fixes bikes they do what you and I can do. Sometimes you just don't have the tools to do it.
Really?
Jumping to conclusions as usual?

They used a frame bender tool as leverage. I was watching them as it was done.
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Old 10-26-07, 09:38 PM   #10
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Try some Liquid Wrench. It is a penetrating oil made for de-sticking threads. It comes in a spray can like WD-40. Really soak the pedal spindle on both sides of the crank arm. Repeat applications, and allow it to sit overnight. Then use the big friggin' pedal wrench and a cheater bar if necessary. A towel around the handle can be useful for spreading out the pressure on your hands. Jumps or bursts of torque can help get the threads to budge initially.

Be double sure you are turning the wrench the right way. Counter-clockwise on the drive side, clockwise on the non-drive side (assuming your chainrings are on the right). I have got them backwards before, thinking I was correct the whole time. Doh.
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Old 10-26-07, 09:49 PM   #11
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Try some Liquid Wrench. It is a penetrating oil made for de-sticking threads. It comes in a spray can like WD-40. Really soak the pedal spindle on both sides of the crank arm. Repeat applications, and allow it to sit overnight. Then use the big friggin' pedal wrench and a cheater bar if necessary. A towel around the handle can be useful for spreading out the pressure on your hands. Jumps or bursts of torque can help get the threads to budge initially.

Be double sure you are turning the wrench the right way. Counter-clockwise on the drive side, clockwise on the non-drive side (assuming your chainrings are on the right). I have got them backwards before, thinking I was correct the whole time. Doh.
I agree with Mchaz. People tend to recommend WD40 for everything but it doesn't do this kind of job nearly as well as Liquid Wrench.

One other thing. Whenever you are using a lot of torque this close to your chainring, take the time to shift your chain onto your biggest chainring first. That way, when the pedal finally breaks loose, you'll need fewer stitches.
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Old 10-26-07, 09:59 PM   #12
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Try to position the pedal to the front of the bike and the wrench position to the back of the bike but more pointing at 2:00 (or 10:00 depending upon which side) Using an extension such as a pipe on the handle of the wrench, hold the pedal with one hand and the extension/wrench with the other. Using your weight, push down on the pedal, and with more pressure to the extension/wrench. It helps if you stand sorta sideways to your bike, facing the wrench.

And I usually put a rag over the chainring just in case I slip.
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Old 10-26-07, 11:57 PM   #13
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Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Will have to hunt down some Liquid Wrench, thanks for the tip.

To everyone who suggests attaching a pipe: what is the best pipe material, and how do you attach it tightly to the wrench? My new wrench will be the "pro" Park Tools.
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Old 10-27-07, 06:05 AM   #14
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Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Will have to hunt down some Liquid Wrench, thanks for the tip.

To everyone who suggests attaching a pipe: what is the best pipe material, and how do you attach it tightly to the wrench? My new wrench will be the "pro" Park Tools.
I use thick wall galvanized pipe that I have scraps laying around on the farm. A piece of fence post pipe might work too. I would avoid any really thin wall stuff. Also FWIW I use PB Blaster rather than Liquid Wrench YMMV.

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Old 10-27-07, 07:05 AM   #15
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Really?
Jumping to conclusions as usual?

They used a frame bender tool as leverage. I was watching them as it was done.
When you fail to provide information in your posts people draw their own conclusions. You want to be a jackass? I can be one too. And i'm better at it than you are. The point of my post was to learn from an experience rather than saying F it. You had to nitpick your post into an argument and be a asshat at the same time.

The tool they used is not a "frame bender" it's a fork and frame straightener. It also has a secondary use of allowing you to grip almost any handled tool available in the shop for great leverage.

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Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.
No decent bike shop will give a ****. A mechanical job is a mechanical job.

Last edited by operator; 10-27-07 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 10-27-07, 09:23 AM   #16
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lol
Congratulations, you have proven my point once again.
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Old 10-27-07, 10:18 AM   #17
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Original Poster here: the LBS is my last resort. I'm just a little more stubborn than my pedals. If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.

Will have to hunt down some Liquid Wrench, thanks for the tip.

To everyone who suggests attaching a pipe: what is the best pipe material, and how do you attach it tightly to the wrench? My new wrench will be the "pro" Park Tools.
It doesn't have to attach tightly to the wrench, just has to be large enough to slide over it. Then, brace the crank arm if you can, so it doesn't rotate the crank when you whack the pipe. A dead-blow hammer works best. Those have a load of lead shot BB's inside to give them increased energy at the point of impact. In other words, no bounce. Few stuck items can resist a dead-blow. Cheap ones are commonly available at any ToolTown, and you should have one in any case. A small one will work, having a head about 1" in dia.

In fact, a dead-blow might even break it loose without the pipe.

CAVEAT: with the use of any impact, you should be sure that the wrench fits snugly, or you may round off the flats on the pedal axis. This complicates things.
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Old 10-27-07, 02:09 PM   #18
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Not trying to be a wise *****, but is it possible, just possible that you are applying pressure in the wrong direction? Perhaps tightening instead of loosening? How can a pedal be so damn tight that you need such leverage and force to back it off?
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Old 10-27-07, 07:08 PM   #19
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Not trying to be a wise *****, but is it possible, just possible that you are applying pressure in the wrong direction? Perhaps tightening instead of loosening? How can a pedal be so damn tight that you need such leverage and force to back it off?
Dunno,
But I have one pedal off of a British 3 speed where the crank arm actually broke across the threads and left the lower part of the crank arm still attached to the pedal. Needless to say we had to scrounge up a replacement crank arm. Fortunately it was the non drive side.

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RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

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Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
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Old 10-27-07, 08:37 PM   #20
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Use some good grease with the new peddles, so you don't have to go through the problem again.
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Old 10-27-07, 08:59 PM   #21
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If the pedal isn't greased that's usually where there are issues. Take it to a bike shop, if nothing else they yend to have the best tools.
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Old 10-28-07, 12:28 AM   #22
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If I go to the shop, I have to explain why I bought my pedals over the internet.
Why? Just pay the LBS for taking off the old pedals. Period. Presumably you can screw the new ones on yourself. Don't forget to put a little grease on the new pedal threads so you don't repeat this problem.
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Old 10-28-07, 12:33 AM   #23
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No decent bike shop will give a ****.
Then they are are not a decent shop. Maybe your LBS experiences are just a reflection of your own attitude.
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Old 10-28-07, 07:44 AM   #24
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Then they are are not a decent shop. Maybe your LBS experiences are just a reflection of your own attitude.
Do you mean "decent shops" interrogate their customer's about the source of their bicycle accessories and parts? No thanks, I'll stick to places that answer my questions about their services or goods for sale.
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Old 10-28-07, 08:53 AM   #25
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Chances are good that most shops will pop 'em off as you stand there, it's that simple with all the tools-n-tricks they have. A couple of them around here wouldn't even charge for it, no matter where you bought the stuff. I've stopped in at a local for a quick adjustment during a ride, they do it, and I leave a gratuity to help with the pizza.
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