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Thread: 1960 raleigh

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    Junior Member Zeke's Avatar
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    1960 raleigh

    I'm restoring this 1960 Raleigh. Its a three speed with a Sturmey Archer hub. It doesn't shift gears well at all. I replaced the trigger-shifter and still the gears aren't quite right. I plan to sell this bike once its ready so should:
    a) turn it into a fixed gear and focus more on the cosmetics

    b) risk actually trying to fix the hub.

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    Senior Member neilfein's Avatar
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    Pics please! I love older Raleigh bikes, I had a Raleigh road bike in high school.
    Tour Journals, Blog, ride pix

    I'm in the celtic folk fusion band Baroque and Hungry. "Mended", our new full-length studio album, is now available for download.

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    Junior Member Zeke's Avatar
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    [IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/All%20Users/Documents/My%20Pictures/2007-02-20/DCIM/100NIKON/DSCN1056.JPG[/IMG]how do I just add the pics?

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    Junior Member Zeke's Avatar
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    how do I add pics??

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    The Site Administrator: Currently at home recovering from a couple of strokes,please contact my assistnt admins for forum issues Tom Stormcrowe's Avatar
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    Get an account at Photobucket. Use the IMG code that Photobucket supplies when you upload the image there for hosting. It's free, too.
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  6. #6
    2 B Frank w/U raleighrider75's Avatar
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    How is it not shifting "quite right"?Slipping gears,missing gears....?
    I think you'd be better off getting it going as a 3speed.You'll be able to get more $ for it.The fixie crowd like their bikes 531 or better so a steel Raleigh might not be what their looking for.But there IS a resurging interest for the old Raleigh 3speeds.
    As you can tell by my title,I like Raleighs.Maybe I'm a little biased but when you have one of that vintage and it has most of the original parts it would be a shame to start modifying it now.It's almost 50 years old.You may just have to clean and relube the hub to get it working properly.
    Last edited by raleighrider75; 02-09-08 at 08:59 AM.

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    Junior Member Zeke's Avatar
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    The gears themselves stick on first and third and just slip past second so maybe a good grease job would do the trick.

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    Cries on hills supton's Avatar
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    http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html

    Lube the hub first with some oil, then adjust the cable. The link should have info on both, about half way down the page.
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    2 B Frank w/U raleighrider75's Avatar
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    How far into it are you gonna go restoring it?Being a second tier Raleigh make will bring the value down a bit but not much.People really relate to the Raleighs.
    Are you sure on the year?The reason I ask is the shifter cable looks newer.Early 60s Sturmey Archer cables used the pulley.Also American Machine and Foundry was renamed AMF in 1971.
    Well anyway,that's besides the point.It's still in pretty good original condition.The less you redo the more it'll be worth.Unless you go for a total 100% restoration.Then it obviously would be worth more.
    It's a nice bike and think you should get it running and keep it for yourself.Find out just how comfortable riding can be.
    What does the headbadge look like?Or has the basket chewed it up?

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    Quote Originally Posted by supton View Post
    http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html

    Lube the hub first with some oil, then adjust the cable. The link should have info on both, about half way down the page.
    Bought this 1960's AMF Hercules for $5 at a garage sale over 10 years ago. A couple of drops of oil in the hub and it was, and still is, good to go. These bikes are virtually indestructible unless in a collision, and it shouldn't take much to make it road worthy.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    There should be a date on the hub. If it were me, I would clean the bike up and sell it as is, if you are flipping it. The cable clamped to the stay like that was used as early as 1964? on the Raleigh RSW/Compact RSW series. Typically it was combined with the grip shifter.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeke View Post




    The gears themselves stick on first and third and just slip past second so maybe a good grease job would do the trick.
    There is a neutral position just past second. It is there to disengage the cluster in the 4-5 speed versions.

    If the correct indicator chain is in there the adjustment is correct when the end of the rod is even with the end of the axle with the shift trigger in second gear. That is what the holes in the nut are for, so you can see the end of the axle for this adjustment.

    The hub uses SAE 20 oil, it takes about 5ml if it is dry, otherwise a squirt or so a week is about right. There is no problem with too much oil other than it leaks out all over everything.

    Only after oiling and properly adjusting the shift cable should you worry about it needing repairs. About the only way an AW hub wears out is from running without oil. Something broken inside is usually obvious.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    There should be a date on the hub. If it were me, I would clean the bike up and sell it as is, if you are flipping it.
    The date on the hub on my AMF Hercules is 1960. The other alternative to restoration and flipping, is to add some oil, adjust the cable, keep it and enjoy riding it for another 50 years.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    There should be a date on the hub. If it were me, I would clean the bike up and sell it as is, if you are flipping it. The cable clamped to the stay like that was used as early as 1964? on the Raleigh RSW/Compact RSW series. Typically it was combined with the grip shifter.

    Aaron
    Every one says this, but it may be true, or may not depending on the particular hub. I currently have two AW hubs; one has only a 3 stamped on it, and the other has no date markings at all. The unmarked one came on a Raleigh laced into a very rusty Westrich Rim so is most likely original; going by frame details it is most likely about 1960 vintage. The other one, marked with a 3, was on a Dunelt of apparently 1973 vintage as it has a 1974 registration sticker on it.
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  15. #15
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graywolf View Post
    Every one says this, but it may be true, or may not depending on the particular hub. I currently have two AW hubs; one has only a 3 stamped on it, and the other has no date markings at all. The unmarked one came on a Raleigh laced into a very rusty Westrich Rim so is most likely original; going by frame details it is most likely about 1960 vintage. The other one, marked with a 3, was on a Dunelt of apparently 1973 vintage as it has a 1974 registration sticker on it.
    They did have hubs that were not dated, but that is the exception rather than the rule. FWIW I have an undated hub on a Raleigh Sports Standard that was built in Malaysia. It has the Endrick rims also, there maybe a connection there or there may not. I have seen at least one other Malaysian built Raleigh that had an unmarked hub.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
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    59'er Mariner Fan's Avatar
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    That bike license is cool as heck!

  17. #17
    Junior Member Zeke's Avatar
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    Thanks y'all, this has been really helpful. The Brooks Saddle is shot and I was thinking if replacing it, the plastic handlebars, and giving the paint a touch up. I would like to give it another Brooks saddle, but I don"t even ride a Brooks and the bike far to small for me to ride thus the selling of the bike. How should I be asking for with the adjustments I've made?

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    Sell it to someone who will really appreciate and ride it. Sell it reasonably. These bikes all have some kind of history. Good Karma

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