Should I buy a new carbon bike?
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Should I buy a new carbon bike?
Gentlemen,
This is my first post in this forum, and I hope that I am making this post in the correct discussion thread.
I am 41 years old and am no longer able to run/jog (arthritis in knees). Fortunately, I remain able to bike and this has become my sole means of exercise. I have become reacquainted with my slightly dated Specialized Carbon Allez road bike @ 1989. The new relationship is going... okay, but I am wondering if I would be happier with a new bike?
It has index shifting on the downtube (Shimano 105 componets), and this is somewhat tedious. I could tinker with this, and for @ $200, I could convert to brifters. I also realize that frames could have become better in the past 20 years. My "old" bike is carbon with aluminum stays.
Whatever I ride, it will not be used for racing, but I do enjoy a spirited ride. I ride for 45-60 minutes every other day during the summer months. We are blessed with a very nice bike path system in Omaha, NE. The only folks that pass me on the bike path are those 150lb guys on tri-bikes. While I am not in great shape (185lbs), I am also not a slug.
My subjective question is... will I noticed a difference in the bottom bracket frame rigidity? Are new bikes that much better? I am willing to spend $2k, but my old bike is darn reliable and gets the job done fairly well. Also, if I am just interested in conditioning, should I buy one of those tri-bikes?
Thanks in advance gentlemen. I truly apprecaite any feedback you might be able to offer.
Sincerely,
Dave Ellis
Omaha, NE
This is my first post in this forum, and I hope that I am making this post in the correct discussion thread.
I am 41 years old and am no longer able to run/jog (arthritis in knees). Fortunately, I remain able to bike and this has become my sole means of exercise. I have become reacquainted with my slightly dated Specialized Carbon Allez road bike @ 1989. The new relationship is going... okay, but I am wondering if I would be happier with a new bike?
It has index shifting on the downtube (Shimano 105 componets), and this is somewhat tedious. I could tinker with this, and for @ $200, I could convert to brifters. I also realize that frames could have become better in the past 20 years. My "old" bike is carbon with aluminum stays.
Whatever I ride, it will not be used for racing, but I do enjoy a spirited ride. I ride for 45-60 minutes every other day during the summer months. We are blessed with a very nice bike path system in Omaha, NE. The only folks that pass me on the bike path are those 150lb guys on tri-bikes. While I am not in great shape (185lbs), I am also not a slug.
My subjective question is... will I noticed a difference in the bottom bracket frame rigidity? Are new bikes that much better? I am willing to spend $2k, but my old bike is darn reliable and gets the job done fairly well. Also, if I am just interested in conditioning, should I buy one of those tri-bikes?
Thanks in advance gentlemen. I truly apprecaite any feedback you might be able to offer.
Sincerely,
Dave Ellis
Omaha, NE
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I'd keep riding that one. I think that is a really cool bike. Never seen one built like that.
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Sorry Dude, I agree with knobster.
EDIT: one thing though is it might cost a little more than $200 to change to bar mounted shifters - you may need to replace the rear wheel to accomodate a 10 speed cassette is the current one is 7 speed.
EDIT: one thing though is it might cost a little more than $200 to change to bar mounted shifters - you may need to replace the rear wheel to accomodate a 10 speed cassette is the current one is 7 speed.
Last edited by longbeachgary; 06-21-09 at 02:35 PM.
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I'd keep riding that one. I think that is a really cool bike.
Sorry Dude, I agree with knobster.
Sorry Dude, I agree with knobster.
I was looking from some practical advice from guys who are familiar with the latest and greatest products. As mentioned above, I really don't have any serious problems with my 20 year old carbon bike. It's a decent ride.
The swap to brifters would entail using an older ebay 8 speed brifter. I found a discussion string somewhere that described this process. While the new 10 speed brifters necessitate a wider back wheel and the 130mm hub, my 7 speed cassette will work with an 8 speed brifter. Well, at least it worked for 1 guy, and nobody disagreed subsequently.
Dave
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Read sheldonbrown.com on this.
If I understand correctly, the 7 to 8 speed switch in 1991 required a change from 130 to 132 mm distance between dropouts. All post-1991 9 and 10 speed cassettes can be used on 8 speed frames, because cassette width is same, but spacing between cogs and chain width have been reduced.
If you have a steel frame, a board can be used to stretch the dropout width. Unsafe for alu, according to Brown.
I had a 1989 Schwinn 974 alu, Shimano 600 7-speed. My legs could no longer do hills with a 39/21 (I can't believe I used to do Colorado with this), so I wanted a 26 or 27 granny.
Per Brown, I bought a 9 speed 12-26 cluster (Miche), removed a cog to give 8 cogs = the same width +/- a few hundredths mm as old 7 cassette.
New indexed 9-speed Dura Ace bar shifter and 9 speed DA chain (I was using aerobars, so didn't need a brifter.)
It works fine.
That being said, I later decided to get a new CF bike cuz 10 speeds is even finer, not to mention dropping 6 pounds and losing the alu vibration. But the Schwinn is still good for riding on salted winter roads and through spring's muddy puddles, and by my son in summer when he visits.
If I understand correctly, the 7 to 8 speed switch in 1991 required a change from 130 to 132 mm distance between dropouts. All post-1991 9 and 10 speed cassettes can be used on 8 speed frames, because cassette width is same, but spacing between cogs and chain width have been reduced.
If you have a steel frame, a board can be used to stretch the dropout width. Unsafe for alu, according to Brown.
I had a 1989 Schwinn 974 alu, Shimano 600 7-speed. My legs could no longer do hills with a 39/21 (I can't believe I used to do Colorado with this), so I wanted a 26 or 27 granny.
Per Brown, I bought a 9 speed 12-26 cluster (Miche), removed a cog to give 8 cogs = the same width +/- a few hundredths mm as old 7 cassette.
New indexed 9-speed Dura Ace bar shifter and 9 speed DA chain (I was using aerobars, so didn't need a brifter.)
It works fine.
That being said, I later decided to get a new CF bike cuz 10 speeds is even finer, not to mention dropping 6 pounds and losing the alu vibration. But the Schwinn is still good for riding on salted winter roads and through spring's muddy puddles, and by my son in summer when he visits.
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Dave- It all depends are your goals and determination to continue riding long-term. About two years ago I was in the same boat as you then Fall came and the closeouts on bikes hit the stores. I ended up getting a 10 speed and really enjoy the new technology when compared to down tube shifters.
I'd ride your current rig for the summer and if you really will stick with the sport then consider getting a bike in Fall when markdowns occur. If cost is not an issue then do lots of research on brands, etc. Find a good bike shop that knows something about fitting you to a bike. You could always keep 'ol' reliable for winter riding when the roads are wet, snowy, etc.
b
I'd ride your current rig for the summer and if you really will stick with the sport then consider getting a bike in Fall when markdowns occur. If cost is not an issue then do lots of research on brands, etc. Find a good bike shop that knows something about fitting you to a bike. You could always keep 'ol' reliable for winter riding when the roads are wet, snowy, etc.
b
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This is great "food for thought" gents.
Yep, Sheldon Brown. One of the sites with authority on the matter of switching shifters was the Sheldon Brown website. Wow! That guy has made a huge contribution for bike mechanics in so many facets. I really not a bike geek, but his work is commendable - from an amateur perspective. In the end, I have decided to just live with my downtube shifters on my current bike. The bike works so well in it's unmolested state.
But, it appears that both of you gents eventually purchased a good 10 speed bike. Hmmm, did you by a traditional road-frame & handlebar, or one of those tri-bikes? I have seen a few tri-bikes around here, but have never ridden one. I bet those handlebars inspire "confidence".
And, about when do the fall sales generally happen.. October??
Dave
Yep, Sheldon Brown. One of the sites with authority on the matter of switching shifters was the Sheldon Brown website. Wow! That guy has made a huge contribution for bike mechanics in so many facets. I really not a bike geek, but his work is commendable - from an amateur perspective. In the end, I have decided to just live with my downtube shifters on my current bike. The bike works so well in it's unmolested state.
But, it appears that both of you gents eventually purchased a good 10 speed bike. Hmmm, did you by a traditional road-frame & handlebar, or one of those tri-bikes? I have seen a few tri-bikes around here, but have never ridden one. I bet those handlebars inspire "confidence".
And, about when do the fall sales generally happen.. October??
Dave
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I purchased a traditional one as a Tri Bike is not practical for where I live in the city & for the type of riding I do. If you have long stretches of road then perhaps a tri bike is for you?
I just googled this https://www.beginnertriathlete.com/cm...?articleid=938
It may have some relevant info for you.
Brian
I just googled this https://www.beginnertriathlete.com/cm...?articleid=938
It may have some relevant info for you.
Brian
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This is really a left brain - right brain decision.
There really isn't anything this bike won't do for you so why spend the money. On the other hand, you're 41 years old and a responsible citizen. You're using your bike quite a bit. What's wrong with spending a little money on yourself. That's the real decision - isn't it?
Bonus factors to help you decide:
1. A new all carbon frame will have a better ride feel.
2. STI's or similar brake lever/shifters ROCK!
3. Whatever you don't like about this bike - fit, gearing or whatever, you can get fixed with a new one.
There really isn't anything this bike won't do for you so why spend the money. On the other hand, you're 41 years old and a responsible citizen. You're using your bike quite a bit. What's wrong with spending a little money on yourself. That's the real decision - isn't it?
Bonus factors to help you decide:
1. A new all carbon frame will have a better ride feel.
2. STI's or similar brake lever/shifters ROCK!
3. Whatever you don't like about this bike - fit, gearing or whatever, you can get fixed with a new one.
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Tri bikes are built for speed, not comfort. I would go with a good road bike and add aerobars if you feel the need to reduce drag. Can't advise you on whether to buy a new bike. That is your decision.
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I cannot say for sure about the new bike. Certainly some newer carbon bikes are a much nicer ride than older half carbon bikes. You should go and test ride yourself to find out what you think!
However, I *definitely* think integrated shifter make the ride more enjoyable than downtube shifters. No question.
However, I *definitely* think integrated shifter make the ride more enjoyable than downtube shifters. No question.
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Ignore us. Seriously.
Except me, of course.
Go test ride several bikes at a few different shops. Don't worry about the price, try what appeals to you.
You will prob wind up with another bike in the Sport category. Oh, it's called Plush now. But there are different 'flavors'... Some are slightly detuned racers, most are Sport bikes with some extra comfort designed in. Watch the BB width, a few bikes are quite narrow, and if your hips are not narrow (happens to some of us in middleage...) that could cause problems.
You will find the new bikes lighter, faster, the shifting will be a revelation. And when you find the right one, a smile will be glued on your face.
Sorry about your wallet
One last detail.. while carbon is all the rage... steel and Ti bikes are also a lot better.
Except me, of course.
Go test ride several bikes at a few different shops. Don't worry about the price, try what appeals to you.
You will prob wind up with another bike in the Sport category. Oh, it's called Plush now. But there are different 'flavors'... Some are slightly detuned racers, most are Sport bikes with some extra comfort designed in. Watch the BB width, a few bikes are quite narrow, and if your hips are not narrow (happens to some of us in middleage...) that could cause problems.
You will find the new bikes lighter, faster, the shifting will be a revelation. And when you find the right one, a smile will be glued on your face.
Sorry about your wallet
One last detail.. while carbon is all the rage... steel and Ti bikes are also a lot better.
Last edited by late; 06-22-09 at 11:02 AM.
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Well, your current ride is 20 years old. That is pretty dated.
If you are frugal, go out and get a good used bike. One could be had for not too much and it would incorporate a lot of the new bells and whistles.
Also, you are 41. Why not indulge in a bit of a mid life crisis? I mean a new bike is dirt cheap compared to a Harley or a Porsche or even a hot bass boat. I mean this is pretty modest. You can live a little.
But if you are feeling loyal to your old ride, there is nothing wrong with the technology. It still works just fine.
Pat
If you are frugal, go out and get a good used bike. One could be had for not too much and it would incorporate a lot of the new bells and whistles.
Also, you are 41. Why not indulge in a bit of a mid life crisis? I mean a new bike is dirt cheap compared to a Harley or a Porsche or even a hot bass boat. I mean this is pretty modest. You can live a little.
But if you are feeling loyal to your old ride, there is nothing wrong with the technology. It still works just fine.
Pat
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Keep the bike and donate the rest to charity. Why feed the ego when you can feed the poor? The "guys on the tri bikes" will always be faster, younger, and on more expensive bikes.
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Will bike shops use my pedals?
Ignore us. Seriously.
Except me, of course.
Except me, of course.
I had another very nice ride yesterday morning - about 55 minutes long. I felt good and am feeling stronger. The best part is that my right knee (the bad one) didn't hurt! This is a significant boon for me !!
Changing topics... My wife allowed me to have a midlife crisis, but it already happened. I think she allowed me to do this because she realized that I had become sufficiently conservative. She allowed me to buy a sports car after out 10th wedding anniversary. After driving many... Subaru STI, Porche 911 (1988), Cadillac CTS, BMW M3, new boxster... I purchased a... 2001 Aprilia RSVR, and have done @15 track days in the past 2 years. It has been fun, but the fun hasn't been on par with the $$ spent. And, the time in this has taken me away from my family on the few valuable weekends when I wasn't working. The worst decision would have been to purchase a Porsche for the street.? The depreciation and cost of money would have been @ $3-5k annually. And, after riding a bike on the track there is little point in driving a sports car on the street.
A wise old man passed this to me:
If you purchase anything and really enjoy it, spend a lot of time with it, and appreciate having it... you got a bargain. But, if you purchase anything that just sits there, idle, and you don't spend any time with it, you paid way too much.
In this regard, I foresee that a good road bike will indeed be a good companion and a bargain - even at $2k+.
And, thanks for the tip on the plush bikes. This fall I will take one for a spin. There is a specialized bike shop in the area. They may have a Roubaix.
Hey, I do have one more question. When test-riding bikes from a bike shop, is it the cultural norm for the shop to put my pedals on the bike? I have some older cleats with Look Carbon pedals that I am somewhat attached to. For me, having pedal-cleats is essential to the riding experience.
Dave
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That bike was known for simply falling apart. The carbon fiber tubes were glued into the steel lugs. Over time, especially at the top tube/head tube lug, the glue would fail. Ride it until you it goes no more.
Also, bar end shifters are much cheaper to install, as 7-speed brake lever/shifters are getting hard to find.
Also, bar end shifters are much cheaper to install, as 7-speed brake lever/shifters are getting hard to find.
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Hey, I do have one more question. When test-riding bikes from a bike shop, is it the cultural norm for the shop to put my pedals on the bike? I have some older cleats with Look Carbon pedals that I am somewhat attached to. For me, having pedal-cleats is essential to the riding experience.
Btw, nothing against the Roubaix, but everybody has a relaxed geometry bike.
And since you aren't in sticker shock, there are some truly exquisite bike builders out there.
Indy Fab
https://www.parleecycles.com/model_Z3.html
Spectrum
Renee Herse, a traditional bike made for long rides
Vanilla
Titus
My bike (pic from the Gunnar site)
Last edited by late; 06-23-09 at 08:00 AM.
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You guys are a riot!
I had another very nice ride yesterday morning - about 55 minutes long. I felt good and am feeling stronger. The best part is that my right knee (the bad one) didn't hurt! This is a significant boon for me !!
Changing topics... My wife allowed me to have a midlife crisis, but it already happened. I think she allowed me to do this because she realized that I had become sufficiently conservative. She allowed me to buy a sports car after out 10th wedding anniversary. After driving many... Subaru STI, Porche 911 (1988), Cadillac CTS, BMW M3, new boxster... I purchased a... 2001 Aprilia RSVR, and have done @15 track days in the past 2 years. It has been fun, but the fun hasn't been on par with the $$ spent. And, the time in this has taken me away from my family on the few valuable weekends when I wasn't working. The worst decision would have been to purchase a Porsche for the street.? The depreciation and cost of money would have been @ $3-5k annually. And, after riding a bike on the track there is little point in driving a sports car on the street.
A wise old man passed this to me:
If you purchase anything and really enjoy it, spend a lot of time with it, and appreciate having it... you got a bargain. But, if you purchase anything that just sits there, idle, and you don't spend any time with it, you paid way too much.
In this regard, I foresee that a good road bike will indeed be a good companion and a bargain - even at $2k+.
And, thanks for the tip on the plush bikes. This fall I will take one for a spin. There is a specialized bike shop in the area. They may have a Roubaix.
Hey, I do have one more question. When test-riding bikes from a bike shop, is it the cultural norm for the shop to put my pedals on the bike? I have some older cleats with Look Carbon pedals that I am somewhat attached to. For me, having pedal-cleats is essential to the riding experience.
Dave
I had another very nice ride yesterday morning - about 55 minutes long. I felt good and am feeling stronger. The best part is that my right knee (the bad one) didn't hurt! This is a significant boon for me !!
Changing topics... My wife allowed me to have a midlife crisis, but it already happened. I think she allowed me to do this because she realized that I had become sufficiently conservative. She allowed me to buy a sports car after out 10th wedding anniversary. After driving many... Subaru STI, Porche 911 (1988), Cadillac CTS, BMW M3, new boxster... I purchased a... 2001 Aprilia RSVR, and have done @15 track days in the past 2 years. It has been fun, but the fun hasn't been on par with the $$ spent. And, the time in this has taken me away from my family on the few valuable weekends when I wasn't working. The worst decision would have been to purchase a Porsche for the street.? The depreciation and cost of money would have been @ $3-5k annually. And, after riding a bike on the track there is little point in driving a sports car on the street.
A wise old man passed this to me:
If you purchase anything and really enjoy it, spend a lot of time with it, and appreciate having it... you got a bargain. But, if you purchase anything that just sits there, idle, and you don't spend any time with it, you paid way too much.
In this regard, I foresee that a good road bike will indeed be a good companion and a bargain - even at $2k+.
And, thanks for the tip on the plush bikes. This fall I will take one for a spin. There is a specialized bike shop in the area. They may have a Roubaix.
Hey, I do have one more question. When test-riding bikes from a bike shop, is it the cultural norm for the shop to put my pedals on the bike? I have some older cleats with Look Carbon pedals that I am somewhat attached to. For me, having pedal-cleats is essential to the riding experience.
Dave
If you want to test your pedals (?) on the bike(s) then bring them with you to the shop. 9/10 times there are no pedals on the bike so they have put something on them anyways.
-b
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Hey, I do have one more question. When test-riding bikes from a bike shop, is it the cultural norm for the shop to put my pedals on the bike? I have some older cleats with Look Carbon pedals that I am somewhat attached to. For me, having pedal-cleats is essential to the riding experience.
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I ride C.F.(Giant TCR-C) Cheap aluminium (Giant OCR3) Top End aluminium (Boreas Ignis) And Mountain bikes.
To be honest- There is not a great deal of difference in the feel of the of the bikes- but they are set up for me and with components that work. The OCR is heavier and feels it but rides well- The TCR can be a bit skittish at speed but climbs hills well- but that Boreas is a joy to ride.
Best thing to do is get out and test ride- and do not dismiss any bike or material till you have tried it.
To be honest- There is not a great deal of difference in the feel of the of the bikes- but they are set up for me and with components that work. The OCR is heavier and feels it but rides well- The TCR can be a bit skittish at speed but climbs hills well- but that Boreas is a joy to ride.
Best thing to do is get out and test ride- and do not dismiss any bike or material till you have tried it.
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Hmmm, good steel or commercial carbon?
There are some truly exquisite bike builders out there.
Indy Fab
Indy Fab
I ask about guys working from their garage/basement because I was surprised to learn this is indeed true about stereo speakers and other hifi gear. The really really good stuff is either tenaciously expensive via commercial sources (perhaps $10k - $20k per component), or available via mostly un-marketed sources. I am also keenly aware that most commercial consumers in the bicycle & hifi realm are willing to pay more for a fancy LOOKING bike. This is where the direct-sales guys generally suffer, but the cost savings can be immense. The bikes you posted above were/are beautiful - almost museum quality. Are you aware of folks puttering with full carbon layup in their basement? An ugly appearance won't discourage me.
It is my believe that the profoundly important aspects of a bicycle are things that laypeople simply don't know - like the molding temperature and cooling process for those fancy carbon frames, like the specific chemistry for the carbon layup process, like the continuity and thickness of the carbon on the INSIDE of those fancy pipes. Further, probably the most important aspect is QUALITY CONTROL. I am keenly aware that this is where most commercial products fail to achieve pervasively great results. Most often an EXPERIENCED product developer/engineer will create and prototype a product a phenomenal product. Then the guys in production "forgive" a few tolerance issues and substitute a "similar" component of "slightly" lesser quality.... the result is a product that remains good, but fails to achieve excellent results. Anyhow, I probably shouldn't rant.
Hmmm, is it possible for a very well built steel frame to surpass the quality of a what appears to be a common commercial carbon frame from Giant or Specialized?
I suspect there are a few very good home-brew carbon builders in the USA. Their work probably should cost $5k+. Eventually I may be in this realm. Do you gents know anything?
Dave